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Old 01-01-2010, 06:44 AM   #1291
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Hi, I will buy the new XRAY T3, Iím new to Electrical RC cars so I need some help to pick the correct equipment (I have gasoline car from before).
What type steering servo is recommended to buy for this car?
If I will drive in the modified class which Motor under 10.5 turn and Pinion Gear should I buy for this car ? I wants the best set up as possible.
I will also need an speed controller, which controller to choose? Is it any speed controllers I can use for Electric motors in both modified and Superstock class. I was just thinking off the option to buy a good speed control, so I can just changes the engine to start in the two different classes. Will that work? I can see the T3 is made for Lipo batteries, is Lipo recommended compare to NIMH? Which size and type batteries should I buy for the T3.
When it comes to tires and wheels, do you have any recommendation for good Tires and wheels.
I appreciate if you can post some links, if you recommend some equipment, then it will be more easy for me to find the correct equipment.
Where in the US, do you find the best prices? I hope some experience people can take the time to answer my questions.
For servos, you want to go with something low profile like the KO 2413 or whatever brand name low profile you like. They fit better. You definitely want to go lipo and there are at least a dozen different companies that make decent lipos. I like SMC and Thunderpower.

For the other items you really need to go to your local track and find out what they are running motor/class wise and gearing. There are too many variables and we could give you information and you could end up buying a bunch of gear you don't need.
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Old 01-01-2010, 08:38 AM   #1292
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This might be a silly question, but what would be the performance characteristics of running shorter springs in the front and longer in the back like the NT1 calls for? Again, might be a dumb question but curios? Would even matter since the front shock on an electric is not laid down as much as on a gas?
in gas cars the rear is usually softer sprung with more travel. usually the same color front and rear springs have the same wire diameter, but the fronts are shorter with fewer coils which gives a stiffer spring rate for the front.

also because the rear has more suspension travel, this suggests a longer spring to avoid it becoming coilbound.
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Old 01-01-2010, 09:56 AM   #1293
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A low profile servo is not a must. I have ran both a standard size servo and low pro and there is no difference on the track. I like to use a servo with a transit time of .10 or less and torque of 100oz or more. I also stick with metal gear servos also. Expect to pay about $100 plus for a good steering servo.
I currently run a Futaba BLS 451 and it is a great servo. I also like using a heavier servo so I do not have to add as much weight as a low profile will require some more weight.

The new Orion servos are good and cost less than $100. They are actually made by KOPropo.

Hope this info helps.
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:16 AM   #1294
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I thought the current Orion Servos are manufactured by Savox?
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Old 01-01-2010, 01:31 PM   #1295
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The orion servos are made by savox indeed and not by kopropo.
All the mounting hardware and appearance of the orion one are identical to the savox versions.
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:01 PM   #1296
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Finished building my new T3 yesterday and it is the bomb. As always Xray's quality is second to none. Unlike most cars where you replace this screw with another screw and sand this and file that, with Xray you just build it and go. I like how the car is easier to balance for lipo than the previous cars. Im looking forward to running the car sunday. How is the base rubber tire setup working on carpet tracks with medium low traction?
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:58 AM   #1297
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when are you coming to race colton ))
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:21 PM   #1298
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:36 PM   #1299
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Does an aftermarket company or xray sell a shim kit for these cars? I bought a used t2 and I do not have all the standard parts that may have come with the kit. Amazed that you have to buy most of the shims individually.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:26 AM   #1300
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Which T3 kit do you guys run for carpet indoor stock rubber tire class. The foam chassis with rubber tires or the EU chassis and what parts are needed such as front diff, oneway, soild axle, different chassis and top deck thinknesses. Reason being is I want to find a car where I don't have to buy alot of additional items to make it run in the rubber stock class aside from the usual wear and tear parts and equipment.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:28 AM   #1301
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Which T3 kit do you guys run for carpet indoor stock rubber tire class. The foam chassis with rubber tires or the EU chassis and what parts are needed such as front diff, oneway, soild axle, different chassis and top deck thinknesses. Reason being is I want to find a car where I don't have to buy alot of additional items to make it run in the rubber stock class aside from the usual wear and tear parts and equipment.
The Euro version is what you want. Built it and race it.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:30 AM   #1302
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Which T3 kit do you guys run for carpet indoor stock rubber tire class. The foam chassis with rubber tires or the EU chassis and what parts are needed such as front diff, oneway, soild axle, different chassis and top deck thinknesses. Reason being is I want to find a car where I don't have to buy alot of additional items to make it run in the rubber stock class aside from the usual wear and tear parts and equipment.
Run the EU kit. No additional parts needed.
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:10 AM   #1303
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Thanks alot guys... one other question does xray include aluminum shock bodies or are they plastic shcok bodies?
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:12 AM   #1304
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Thanks alot guys... one other question does xray include aluminum shock bodies or are they plastic shcok bodies?
Plastic
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:05 AM   #1305
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Before I was a Tamiya fanboy but after I switch to a XRay T3 I don't think I will ever go back. The build quality is on par but the durability and drivability has been phenomenal. At the track this past weekend another racer and myself both broke the front lipo brace. Is this common? Are there other options that work as well? Also, I'm trying to add useable weight to the car as I'm only at 1380g (and that's with 30g of balance weight on the lipo side). Would the optional wide bumper and aluminum shock bodies make up the xtra 40g?
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