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Old 12-19-2009, 09:21 PM   #1216
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Originally Posted by Joey4875 View Post
Yes the front should line up but the rear has toe in built in the car
That's rubbish. No car has toe built in the chassis plate anywhere. Xray is really going downhill with these quality issues. Perhaps they outsourced the manufacturing somewhere where quality isn't important.
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:36 PM   #1217
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That's rubbish. No car has toe built in the chassis plate anywhere. Xray is really going downhill with these quality issues. Perhaps they outsourced the manufacturing somewhere where quality isn't important.

T3 HAS rear toe-in built in.....1 degree. if you look on the setup sheet for rear toe, the option for shimming will show it... no shims allow 1degree of rear toe.
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:40 PM   #1218
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
That's rubbish. No car has toe built in the chassis plate anywhere. Xray is really going downhill with these quality issues. Perhaps they outsourced the manufacturing somewhere where quality isn't important.
niznai, aka Xray troll #13
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:40 PM   #1219
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As for differences in rear toe, from left to right, the car was not built properly. The instructions for installing the front of the rear hingepin mounts, you must turn and hold as you are tightening the mount.... We have currently 15 T3 at our local track and everyone made sure the mounts were installed properly, so nobody had rear toe issues.....

hope that helps...
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:49 PM   #1220
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Originally Posted by sjh28 View Post
Just finished building mine and all went together great.

Only thing I found was both rear arms tight after tightening up mounts.
Found I needed to file 0.2mm off the 2mm shims, was spot on after that.

The previous suggestion about loosening the crews underneath helped the front, but not the back.

Looking forward to running first time tomorrow.
when building the car, i was told to take my time with the hingepin mounts, and NOT to file anything... it would not be needed. The installation of the smaller mounts was a key issue.... then installing the roll center pieces and the arms.. i found as i tighten the roll center screws one at a time, i tap the arm forward and backwards with the handle of the wrench then tighten, tap again, tighten, then torque it down, i guess it allows the roll center pieces and hingepins to center itself... i have been doing this since and NO BINDING and no filing needed, the arms always drop on their own!!!
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Old 12-19-2009, 10:31 PM   #1221
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T3 HAS rear toe-in built in.....1 degree. if you look on the setup sheet for rear toe, the option for shimming will show it... no shims allow 1degree of rear toe.
Oh, I see. My bad.

Still as pointed out above the holes are misaligned and that's just down to poor workmanship. Why did Xray need to revisit this old design I am not sure, but chassis built in toe was last used a long time ago (TA02/03 anyone?).
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Old 12-19-2009, 10:49 PM   #1222
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What's with all this negativeness surrounding Xray's new ride? Xray slipping on the world??
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Old 12-20-2009, 12:29 AM   #1223
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Yeah, my "locating holes" are different distances from the edge of diff cut out. One is 5.21mm. The other is 5.49mm.

I won't know till I get this holder out (undamaged hopefully), but I wonder if I'll be able to tighten them with the arms installed, so they stay staight???? If not, will the one piece holder solve my issues? I doubt xray will give me a new chassis.
Well, I got the screw out by drilling it out. Unfortunately because I used thread lock I don't think I can get the remains of the screw out. I'll need to buy another Arm Mount. However I think I'll wait till I get the new 1 piece mount and try that. Hopefully that will solve any possible issues with the 0.30mm difference I stated above. (Unless the 1 piece has the locating pins and therefore doesn't fit????)

I have about 4 weeks till the Xmas break is over, so I still have time
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Old 12-20-2009, 02:29 AM   #1224
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Default 1.7 vs 1.9 ratio

what are the advantages or disadvantages changing from 1.7 ratio to 1.9 ratio for 17.5 or 21.5 ????
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Old 12-20-2009, 02:50 AM   #1225
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what are the advantages or disadvantages changing from 1.7 ratio to 1.9 ratio for 17.5 or 21.5 ????
The FDR is achieved much easier with the 1.7 internal. The 38t pulleys have better on-off throttle response. I didnt notice anything in stock. In 10.5 and mod i found the 38t pulleys good. Maybe too good for mod. Maybe thats why all the mod team drivers are using 34t pulleys now..

It is very hard to get a good FDR in the slower classes with the 1.9, therefore you have to use tiny spurs to do it. There the advantages and disadvantages of each..

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Old 12-20-2009, 05:57 AM   #1226
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[QUOTE=Sith Lord;6741863]Well, I got the screw out by drilling it out. Unfortunately because I used thread lock I don't think I can get the remains of the screw out. I'll need to buy another Arm Mount.

Warm up the mount with a micro torch. The treadlock should release and you will be able to remove the remains of the screw
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Old 12-20-2009, 03:23 PM   #1227
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or you can even use 25-30w soldering iron to heat up alloy mounts to remove thread locked screws
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Old 12-20-2009, 05:32 PM   #1228
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I am using 60w soldering iron to heat up the screw about 60sec to release the thread lock.
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Old 12-20-2009, 08:37 PM   #1229
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Thanks Con, Yokemad & mjc. Hadn't even thought of that. Will give it a go in the next couple of days. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 12-21-2009, 04:43 AM   #1230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sith Lord View Post
Yeah, my "locating holes" are different distances from the edge of diff cut out. One is 5.21mm. The other is 5.49mm.

I won't know till I get this holder out (undamaged hopefully), but I wonder if I'll be able to tighten them with the arms installed, so they stay staight???? If not, will the one piece holder solve my issues? I doubt xray will give me a new chassis.
I had the mounts being slightly out of alignment as well, but remember that there is flex in the plastic pivot pin mounts that screw up against the metal parts.
As you add shims at at the back for rear toe you are effectively making more of an angle between the pivot pin and the rear front metal pivot block.

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