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Old 12-15-2009, 03:31 AM   #1141
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Can't say anything about Atomic ECS, but Xray 50mm worked for me well for one winter series with 10.5, then I switched to modified for summer and I didn't have to replace composite outdrives on spool at all. Now I'm running different brand of car also in modified so can't say how much longer it would last like this.
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:21 AM   #1142
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Where does the heatshrink go on the ECS driveshafts? Really need a photo to completely understand. Thanks.
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:28 AM   #1143
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Quote:
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Where does the heatshrink go on the ECS driveshafts? Really need a photo to completely understand. Thanks.
Put the heat shrink around the coupler. The purpose of the heat shrink is to keep the pins in.
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:48 AM   #1144
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Originally Posted by FK05 lover View Post
Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance!!..
Ditto on that one.

The Atomic ECS shafts are great, heaps cheaper too.

And like billjacobs said, no flat spot on the pins, so no manufactured weak point.

Still loctite the grub screws and use heatshrink over the centre piece. I have used them with a 4.5 with no problems, although I don't crash too often.
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:52 AM   #1145
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although I don't crash too often.
oh yeah whatever you say josh

i saw you crash once
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Old 12-15-2009, 07:15 AM   #1146
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both myself and a friend have been running the 50mm atomic ecs shafts in composite drive cups without any problems. i run 10.5 and he runs 4.5.

if you guys are breaking stuff all the time then something is wrong. we loctite the grub screws and then also use heatshrink around the outside. not once has anything broken or even come loose.
It may depend how much you have the front of your car shimmed out for track width. If I had to guess 50mm with no additional track width is a lot more durable than 50mm with 2mm of track width added.
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Old 12-15-2009, 04:43 PM   #1147
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Whats the part# for the Atomic 50mm ECS shafts?? Thanks
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:41 PM   #1148
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It may depend how much you have the front of your car shimmed out for track width. If I had to guess 50mm with no additional track width is a lot more durable than 50mm with 2mm of track width added.
ive got 1.5mm of shims for the front track width
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Old 12-16-2009, 08:25 AM   #1149
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hi guys
@atomic shafts
no parts available so when coupler pin holes worned out you have to bin it

@t3
Car feels great but not easy to balance with lipo...
my car needs 30grams of weight to balance!
total weight 1410grams where our goal is 1350!
008-009 better on that case just hangout the pack thanx to narrower chassis...
mi4lp chassis 92mm! But T3 chassis wider than 009!
my parts
Ko low profile servo
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spektrum sr3001 rx
amb trans.
ballistic 13.5
30mm fan attached to top deck no heatsink
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Old 12-16-2009, 08:57 AM   #1150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Three View Post
Where does the heatshrink go on the ECS driveshafts? Really need a photo to completely understand. Thanks.
There is absolutely no need for heatshrink around the XRAY ECS. We have been running the ESC from day 1 every weekend with a spool with no problems. High grip, low grip asphalt, carpet, etc.

BTW, we have 3 ECS. 1 for a backup in case 1 goes bad during a race weekend.

As Paul Lemieux advises, build them right and use Loctite on the grub screws. Let the loctite dry overnight. Then never open them again. Just maintain and oil externally.

The heatshrink idea is from the LOSI LCD design. We had a JSX-R for 1 week and was not too impressed with putting heatshrink to keep a moving part together. The LOSI LCD has no grub screws that is why the heatshrink is needed. We also had to dremel-out an already weak C Hub so the LCD will fit. In other words - it is a Mickey Mouse design.

Jeez. Don't fix something that is not broken!!! Escpecially on a XRAY.
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Last edited by TeamB&B; 12-16-2009 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:40 AM   #1151
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If you want an extra layer of protection use the heat shrink.
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:33 AM   #1152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamB&B View Post
There is absolutely no need for heatshrink around the XRAY ECS. We have been running the ESC from day 1 every weekend with a spool with no problems. High grip, low grip asphalt, carpet, etc.

BTW, we have 3 ECS. 1 for a backup in case 1 goes bad during a race weekend.

As Paul Lemieux advises, build them right and use Loctite on the grub screws. Let the loctite dry overnight. Then never open them again. Just maintain and oil externally.

The heatshrink idea is from the LOSI LCD design. We had a JSX-R for 1 week and was not too impressed with putting heatshrink to keep a moving part together. The LOSI LCD has no grub screws that is why the heatshrink is needed. We also had to dremel-out an already weak C Hub so the LCD will fit. In other words - it is a Mickey Mouse design.

Jeez. Don't fix something that is not broken!!! Escpecially on a XRAY.
If you only race on carpet, then not taking a driveshaft apart might be fine. But when you race outdoors where there can be fine dust etc, if it get's behind the 'ball joint' bit in the middle it will all turn into grinding paste.

I use heatshrink and no grub screws, just replace the heatshrink every couple of meets (and rebuild etc)



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Old 12-16-2009, 11:49 AM   #1153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamB&B View Post
There is absolutely no need for heatshrink around the XRAY ECS. We have been running the ESC from day 1 every weekend with a spool with no problems. High grip, low grip asphalt, carpet, etc.

BTW, we have 3 ECS. 1 for a backup in case 1 goes bad during a race weekend.

As Paul Lemieux advises, build them right and use Loctite on the grub screws. Let the loctite dry overnight. Then never open them again. Just maintain and oil externally.
The heatshrink idea is from the LOSI LCD design. We had a JSX-R for 1 week and was not too impressed with putting heatshrink to keep a moving part together. The LOSI LCD has no grub screws that is why the heatshrink is needed. We also had to dremel-out an already weak C Hub so the LCD will fit. In other words - it is a Mickey Mouse design.

Jeez. Don't fix something that is not broken!!! Escpecially on a XRAY.
What are you using to oil externally? Ralph Burch told me for racing outdoors to take them apart and use Hudy grease on them.
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:56 AM   #1154
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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
hi guys
@atomic shafts
no parts available so when coupler pin holes worned out you have to bin it

@t3
Car feels great but not easy to balance with lipo...
my car needs 30grams of weight to balance!
total weight 1410grams where our goal is 1350!
008-009 better on that case just hangout the pack thanx to narrower chassis...
mi4lp chassis 92mm! But T3 chassis wider than 009!
my parts
Ko low profile servo
rs pro
spektrum sr3001 rx
amb trans.
ballistic 13.5
30mm fan attached to top deck no heatsink
batt side
lrp 5300
my car is 1360g with 40g of lead 10g in each corner because the balance is great , i checked mine with a 1/12th scale driver on his balance gauge and it was perfect

i use a full size KO propo servo and Bionic 5000 50c lipos , SPX , GM motor and Spektrum reciever , AMB transponder is in the front bumper , i do use a lightweight body though
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Old 12-16-2009, 12:43 PM   #1155
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I should move PT to Batt side or bumper
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