XRAY T3
12-07-2009, 08:03 AM
#1099
It did great in all of my heat races yesterday but once the main came it was spinning out like crazy. I ended up having it pulled off after six laps in order to just get out of everyone's way. I'm not sure what the problem was. I had three a-mains in a row (vta, stadium truck, and then 17.5 tc) so it could have been driver error. Also, it is possible that I forgot to put compound on the rear tires. I think I did but I can't swear to it.
12-07-2009, 08:13 AM
#1100
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
I was breaking ECS shaft cross pins and drive cups too so I built a slipper spool for my 009/T3. Just fabbed up a couple of teflon pads in the shape of diff rings, sanded them to the right thickness, removed the diff balls and thrust bearing and adjusted it to slip on impact. Haven't broken a driveline part since.
Last edited by pcar951; 12-07-2009 at 08:26 AM.
12-07-2009, 08:15 AM
#1101
hi all
i was checking my setup & found there's lots of play in the steering. have a hard time trying to get setup right.
i realize that the quick saver is able to move up & down between the top deck & chassis, abt 1mm play, i can't be sure but quite a fair bit of movement. i double check the top deck & it's tighten.
is this play normal? can i shim to remove the play, very difficult to get setup right with the extra movement
i was checking my setup & found there's lots of play in the steering. have a hard time trying to get setup right.
i realize that the quick saver is able to move up & down between the top deck & chassis, abt 1mm play, i can't be sure but quite a fair bit of movement. i double check the top deck & it's tighten.
is this play normal? can i shim to remove the play, very difficult to get setup right with the extra movement
It doesn't take much though! I think the shim I use is either 0.25 mm or 0.16 mm depending on how tight it is.
12-07-2009, 08:55 AM
#1102
thx steve
i did thought of shimming it if the below method dun work for long
i just tried christopher method, im able to push down the quick saver bearing holder abit more till no play. but im not sure if after some run the bearing holder will stay put. will definitely need to chk after each run
thx all again
i did thought of shimming it if the below method dun work for long
i just tried christopher method, im able to push down the quick saver bearing holder abit more till no play. but im not sure if after some run the bearing holder will stay put. will definitely need to chk after each run
thx all again
12-07-2009, 12:33 PM
#1103
ok guys i have bought my first Xray and it is the T3 ,
i am used to Tamiya's and have never built an Xray
is there anything i need to watch out for in the build ??
cheeRS Phil
i am used to Tamiya's and have never built an Xray
is there anything i need to watch out for in the build ??
cheeRS Phil
12-07-2009, 12:53 PM
#1104
When you build the CVDs, make sure you use loctite on the grub screws to hold the pins in place. Make sure to dab some grease on the CVDs as well.
Before you install the rear diff (or front diff as well if you have the US Spec), take it apart, regrease the balls in the pulley as well as the crush bearing. if you can afford it, it doesn't hurt to convert them into ceramic balls.
Also, may want to keep the setup sheet near you as you build your car, if you meet the conditions the setup sheet is made for.
One last thing, make sure you call up RC America to get your free part for the arm holders. If not, make sure you CA the screw holes as well as the sides of the chassis!
Other than that, it is a very smooth build. It doesn't hurt to get a 3mm HUDY arm reamer and ream the arms for more smooth operation and fitment.
12-07-2009, 01:10 PM
#1105
When you build the shocks, make sure you pay attention to how you install the balls that mount to the shock tower and arm. The top part, you install the ball on the shiney side. On the bottom part, you install the ball through the non-shiney part.
When you build the CVDs, make sure you use loctite on the grub screws to hold the pins in place. Make sure to dab some grease on the CVDs as well.
Before you install the rear diff (or front diff as well if you have the US Spec), take it apart, regrease the balls in the pulley as well as the crush bearing. if you can afford it, it doesn't hurt to convert them into ceramic balls.
Also, may want to keep the setup sheet near you as you build your car, if you meet the conditions the setup sheet is made for.
One last thing, make sure you call up RC America to get your free part for the arm holders. If not, make sure you CA the screw holes as well as the sides of the chassis!
Other than that, it is a very smooth build. It doesn't hurt to get a 3mm HUDY arm reamer and ream the arms for more smooth operation and fitment.
When you build the CVDs, make sure you use loctite on the grub screws to hold the pins in place. Make sure to dab some grease on the CVDs as well.
Before you install the rear diff (or front diff as well if you have the US Spec), take it apart, regrease the balls in the pulley as well as the crush bearing. if you can afford it, it doesn't hurt to convert them into ceramic balls.
Also, may want to keep the setup sheet near you as you build your car, if you meet the conditions the setup sheet is made for.
One last thing, make sure you call up RC America to get your free part for the arm holders. If not, make sure you CA the screw holes as well as the sides of the chassis!
Other than that, it is a very smooth build. It doesn't hurt to get a 3mm HUDY arm reamer and ream the arms for more smooth operation and fitment.
i have ordered the option ECS axles
i have the 3mm arm reamer so i will remember to do that Thanks
12-07-2009, 02:58 PM
#1106
To: our customer
Was order T3 Customer can contact our staff
take #302047 lower suspension 1pc holder !
[email protected]
Was order T3 Customer can contact our staff
take #302047 lower suspension 1pc holder !
[email protected]
12-08-2009, 05:42 AM
#1107
When you build the shocks, make sure you pay attention to how you install the balls that mount to the shock tower and arm. The top part, you install the ball on the shiney side. On the bottom part, you install the ball through the non-shiney part.
When you build the CVDs, make sure you use loctite on the grub screws to hold the pins in place. Make sure to dab some grease on the CVDs as well.
Before you install the rear diff (or front diff as well if you have the US Spec), take it apart, regrease the balls in the pulley as well as the crush bearing. if you can afford it, it doesn't hurt to convert them into ceramic balls.
Also, may want to keep the setup sheet near you as you build your car, if you meet the conditions the setup sheet is made for.
One last thing, make sure you call up RC America to get your free part for the arm holders. If not, make sure you CA the screw holes as well as the sides of the chassis!
Other than that, it is a very smooth build. It doesn't hurt to get a 3mm HUDY arm reamer and ream the arms for more smooth operation and fitment.
When you build the CVDs, make sure you use loctite on the grub screws to hold the pins in place. Make sure to dab some grease on the CVDs as well.
Before you install the rear diff (or front diff as well if you have the US Spec), take it apart, regrease the balls in the pulley as well as the crush bearing. if you can afford it, it doesn't hurt to convert them into ceramic balls.
Also, may want to keep the setup sheet near you as you build your car, if you meet the conditions the setup sheet is made for.
One last thing, make sure you call up RC America to get your free part for the arm holders. If not, make sure you CA the screw holes as well as the sides of the chassis!
Other than that, it is a very smooth build. It doesn't hurt to get a 3mm HUDY arm reamer and ream the arms for more smooth operation and fitment.
Skiddins
12-08-2009, 05:59 AM
#1108
Tech Regular
Just want opinion on the T3 compare to the 009 using rubber on carpet, is it faster or easer to drive?
12-08-2009, 06:27 AM
#1109
IMO it's both. Faster and easier to drive.
12-08-2009, 06:33 AM
#1110
(I jest)But yes, as Skiddins mentioned, check all the pivot balls for free movement. You could put a tiny bit of grease in there too for ultimate free movement, but it will just collect more crud.