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Old 12-07-2009, 08:46 AM   #1096
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Other than breaking one of the composite outdrives and having to switch over to the front diff and drive shafts from my T2 it was a pretty good weekend.
Why did you switch to a front diff? Are you running rubber tire?
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:52 AM   #1097
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Why did you switch to a front diff? Are you running rubber tire?
Because I didn't have any spare outdrives and I still wanted to race the car. I will be switching back once I receive the new outdrives from Nexus on Wednesday.

I guess I did word it wrong though, it is a solid axle not a diff.
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:57 AM   #1098
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lowcel, any luck with the car no longer spinning out on you?
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:03 AM   #1099
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lowcel, any luck with the car no longer spinning out on you?
It did great in all of my heat races yesterday but once the main came it was spinning out like crazy. I ended up having it pulled off after six laps in order to just get out of everyone's way. I'm not sure what the problem was. I had three a-mains in a row (vta, stadium truck, and then 17.5 tc) so it could have been driver error. Also, it is possible that I forgot to put compound on the rear tires. I think I did but I can't swear to it.
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:13 AM   #1100
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I was breaking ECS shaft cross pins and drive cups too so I built a slipper spool for my 009/T3. Just fabbed up a couple of teflon pads in the shape of diff rings, sanded them to the right thickness, removed the diff balls and thrust bearing and adjusted it to slip on impact. Haven't broken a driveline part since.

Last edited by pcar951; 12-07-2009 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:15 AM   #1101
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hi all

i was checking my setup & found there's lots of play in the steering. have a hard time trying to get setup right.
i realize that the quick saver is able to move up & down between the top deck & chassis, abt 1mm play, i can't be sure but quite a fair bit of movement. i double check the top deck & it's tighten.



is this play normal? can i shim to remove the play, very difficult to get setup right with the extra movement
I usually use a very thin 5 mm ID shim to reduce this.

It doesn't take much though! I think the shim I use is either 0.25 mm or 0.16 mm depending on how tight it is.
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:55 AM   #1102
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thx steve
i did thought of shimming it if the below method dun work for long

i just tried christopher method, im able to push down the quick saver bearing holder abit more till no play. but im not sure if after some run the bearing holder will stay put. will definitely need to chk after each run

thx all again
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:33 PM   #1103
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ok guys i have bought my first Xray and it is the T3 ,

i am used to Tamiya's and have never built an Xray

is there anything i need to watch out for in the build ??

cheeRS Phil
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:53 PM   #1104
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
ok guys i have bought my first Xray and it is the T3 ,

i am used to Tamiya's and have never built an Xray

is there anything i need to watch out for in the build ??

cheeRS Phil
When you build the shocks, make sure you pay attention to how you install the balls that mount to the shock tower and arm. The top part, you install the ball on the shiney side. On the bottom part, you install the ball through the non-shiney part.

When you build the CVDs, make sure you use loctite on the grub screws to hold the pins in place. Make sure to dab some grease on the CVDs as well.

Before you install the rear diff (or front diff as well if you have the US Spec), take it apart, regrease the balls in the pulley as well as the crush bearing. if you can afford it, it doesn't hurt to convert them into ceramic balls.

Also, may want to keep the setup sheet near you as you build your car, if you meet the conditions the setup sheet is made for.

One last thing, make sure you call up RC America to get your free part for the arm holders. If not, make sure you CA the screw holes as well as the sides of the chassis!

Other than that, it is a very smooth build. It doesn't hurt to get a 3mm HUDY arm reamer and ream the arms for more smooth operation and fitment.
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:10 PM   #1105
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Originally Posted by HarryN View Post
When you build the shocks, make sure you pay attention to how you install the balls that mount to the shock tower and arm. The top part, you install the ball on the shiney side. On the bottom part, you install the ball through the non-shiney part.

When you build the CVDs, make sure you use loctite on the grub screws to hold the pins in place. Make sure to dab some grease on the CVDs as well.

Before you install the rear diff (or front diff as well if you have the US Spec), take it apart, regrease the balls in the pulley as well as the crush bearing. if you can afford it, it doesn't hurt to convert them into ceramic balls.

Also, may want to keep the setup sheet near you as you build your car, if you meet the conditions the setup sheet is made for.

One last thing, make sure you call up RC America to get your free part for the arm holders. If not, make sure you CA the screw holes as well as the sides of the chassis!

Other than that, it is a very smooth build. It doesn't hurt to get a 3mm HUDY arm reamer and ream the arms for more smooth operation and fitment.
cheeRS , i am in europe and i believe my car is coming with both 1 piece and 2 piece mountings

i have ordered the option ECS axles

i have the 3mm arm reamer so i will remember to do that Thanks
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Old 12-07-2009, 03:58 PM   #1106
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To: our customer
Was order T3 Customer can contact our staff
take #302047 lower suspension 1pc holder !

[email protected]
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Old 12-08-2009, 06:42 AM   #1107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryN View Post
When you build the shocks, make sure you pay attention to how you install the balls that mount to the shock tower and arm. The top part, you install the ball on the shiney side. On the bottom part, you install the ball through the non-shiney part.

When you build the CVDs, make sure you use loctite on the grub screws to hold the pins in place. Make sure to dab some grease on the CVDs as well.

Before you install the rear diff (or front diff as well if you have the US Spec), take it apart, regrease the balls in the pulley as well as the crush bearing. if you can afford it, it doesn't hurt to convert them into ceramic balls.

Also, may want to keep the setup sheet near you as you build your car, if you meet the conditions the setup sheet is made for.

One last thing, make sure you call up RC America to get your free part for the arm holders. If not, make sure you CA the screw holes as well as the sides of the chassis!

Other than that, it is a very smooth build. It doesn't hurt to get a 3mm HUDY arm reamer and ream the arms for more smooth operation and fitment.
Also check that the pivot balls in the shocks are nice and smooth, I had to take mine out again and sand them down a bit to make them mirror smooth.

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Old 12-08-2009, 06:59 AM   #1108
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Just want opinion on the T3 compare to the 009 using rubber on carpet, is it faster or easer to drive?
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:27 AM   #1109
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IMO it's both. Faster and easier to drive.
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:33 AM   #1110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Also check that the pivot balls in the shocks are nice and smooth, I had to take mine out again and sand them down a bit to make them mirror smooth.

Skiddins
Good catch. I had to do the same with my US Spec car. But I figured, heck, I want it as stiff as possible. (I jest)

But yes, as Skiddins mentioned, check all the pivot balls for free movement. You could put a tiny bit of grease in there too for ultimate free movement, but it will just collect more crud.
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