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Old 12-03-2009, 12:07 PM   #1051
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Xray's goal has always been to make their new models faster. The fk04 and fk05 were tanks that would only break if you tried to break them. The t2 was faster but not quite as durable. The t3 is also faster but not quite as durable. Each interation in the line has tried to shave weight anywhere possible and has gotten lighter. Looking at the pictures and reading about the damaged chassis, xray should have either gone with suspension blocks (which they would have charged $20 a piece for) or should have at least used 2 screw holes for the single holders.

They have already fixed the issue by going to the 1 piece block. But the simple truth is that newer cars are not as durable as older ones. The same thing is true for tamiya. The original 415 was a tank. When they went to the lightweight suspension, people started breaking parts. Tamiya has followed the same path as xray; newer, faster cars that get more fragile.

Racers have 2 choices: use older designs that were tanks, but are not that competitive, or learn to drive clean. You can't have both, at least today.

Since xray has already fixed the issue, and is including the new part free, can people stop saying they won't buy the new car because of this issue?
Which is fine, but again, why is it the most expensive part on the car that breaks? Would you be mad if you bought a new Toyota and the frame bent every time you got into a fender bender in the parking lot resulting in a totaled car?... but the bumper stayed on and the paint didn't scratch? Or, would you prefer to have a paint scratched and maybe a loose bumper so the frame didn't bend?
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Old 12-03-2009, 01:14 PM   #1052
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Which is fine, but again, why is it the most expensive part on the car that breaks? Would you be mad if you bought a new Toyota and the frame bent every time you got into a fender bender in the parking lot resulting in a totaled car?... but the bumper stayed on and the paint didn't scratch? Or, would you prefer to have a paint scratched and maybe a loose bumper so the frame didn't bend?
Personally I would rather it totaled everytime. I have good insurance and I hate driving around in a wrecked vehicle. My last Toyota Tacoma (2009) I had for three weeks (hadn't even made the first payment on it) when a dump truck lost it's load and did $9,000 in cosmetic damage. I traded it in the next week and bought another Tacoma exactly like it. So far so good.......
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Old 12-03-2009, 01:32 PM   #1053
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Personally I would rather it totaled everytime. I have good insurance and I hate driving around in a wrecked vehicle. My last Toyota Tacoma (2009) I had for three weeks (hadn't even made the first payment on it) when a dump truck lost it's load and did $9,000 in cosmetic damage. I traded it in the next week and bought another Tacoma exactly like it. So far so good.......
But we don't have insurance for our R/C cars. So, if you didn't have insurance, would you still feel the same way?
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Old 12-03-2009, 01:35 PM   #1054
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But we don't have insurance for our R/C cars. So, if you didn't have insurance, would you still feel the same way?
That's not what your original post asked. Plus, how do you know I don't have insurance on my r/c cars? You can insure anything these days, hell Jennifer Lopez has her ass insured.
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:38 PM   #1055
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That's not what your original post asked. Plus, how do you know I don't have insurance on my r/c cars? You can insure anything these days, hell Jennifer Lopez has her ass insured.


I almost lost it when I read that. I remember reading that somewhere and just burst out laughing.

But yeah, find me a company that insures R/C cars separately and if it is totaled, you get the money to replace it.

I think Kuruption got yah on that part about the insurance. When you said you would prefer to total your real cars, that kind of assumes the GAP insurance/Full Insurance Coverage for the vehicle. So he was still on the same page.

But back on topic, has anyone received their free part yet? How much has it helped?
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Old 12-03-2009, 02:44 PM   #1056
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I almost lost it when I read that. I remember reading that somewhere and just burst out laughing.

But yeah, find me a company that insures R/C cars separately and if it is totaled, you get the money to replace it.

I think Kuruption got yah on that part about the insurance. When you said you would prefer to total your real cars, that kind of assumes the GAP insurance/Full Insurance Coverage for the vehicle. So he was still on the same page.

But back on topic, has anyone received their free part yet? How much has it helped?
Give Lloyds (sp?) of London a call. They will insure anything, the only thing they won't do is life insurance. It has something to do with the fact that eventually everyone would want to collect.

Actually, I'm pretty sure you could get an rc car insured even in the event of a crash. When racing bikes (road and mountain) a lot of my friends had their bikes insured and they were covered in the event of a crash. With that said, the price may not justify the insurance (pretty sure it wouldn't) but that doesn't mean it isn't possible. Hell, I'll insure your touring car for $50,000 a year full coverage. I'll even give you a multi-car discount.
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:14 PM   #1057
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Having made my T3 I have noticed that a couple of the upper pivot balls are a bit stiff.

Although not solid or anything if held on a hex driver by the upper ball the shock doesn't fall to the bottom under it's own weight as it should.

Anyone have any idea's on how to rectify this?

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Old 12-03-2009, 05:18 PM   #1058
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Does anyone know if RC America received their second batch this week and if it has shipped out to hobby shops yet? thanks...
Anyone?
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:20 PM   #1059
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i am an avid racer that goes out and has fun. im not a idiot nor a pro just a normal avg racer. And i have never broken a chassis on any o my cars and ive taken alot of wreaks on alot of cars and never had any issues with the chassis. Ive scratched it up alot but never break. Personally i dont think a chassis should ever break unless a freak accident happens. I was always on the fence about xrays tc cars because of the price no im a firm believer that its not worth it if it has this kind of problem. Its like toyota was the best car company in the word now its one of the worst they have the biggest recall ever affecting every car they ever made. Thats a little lame. i think xray should of done thier homework better.
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:45 PM   #1060
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since parts for T3 are hard to come by.... would anyone of you that is not happy with it would like to sell it minus the chassis? hmmm that would make it
$400 bucks or so.. rolling parts yeap..
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:04 PM   #1061
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since parts for T3 are hard to come by.... would anyone of you that is not happy with it would like to sell it minus the chassis? hmmm that would make it
$400 bucks or so.. rolling parts yeap..
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:20 PM   #1062
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Having made my T3 I have noticed that a couple of the upper pivot balls are a bit stiff.

Although not solid or anything if held on a hex driver by the upper ball the shock doesn't fall to the bottom under it's own weight as it should.

Anyone have any idea's on how to rectify this?

Skiddins
Did you try removing the pivot balls and putting them in from the other side? I had a couple of stiff ones that I had to do that with. I still can't tell which side is the shiny and which side is the dull side of those things.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:21 PM   #1063
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Troublemaker.

looking back on previous pages. there are only a handful of people who has a legit complain, the rest are just jumping in the bandwagon and some do not even own one. I just check the for sale thread and found none for sale. the first seven pages do not have a T3. why do you guys keep your T3. it is an awful design and so damn fragile get rid of it. I am sure* someone will snag it from you. my hats off to those who have an actual solution to the problem... if it is a real problem.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:51 PM   #1064
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Having made my T3 I have noticed that a couple of the upper pivot balls are a bit stiff.

Although not solid or anything if held on a hex driver by the upper ball the shock doesn't fall to the bottom under it's own weight as it should.

Anyone have any idea's on how to rectify this?

Skiddins
I had a couple that were tigh too. I just gave the rod end a squeeze with the smooth part of my needle nose pliers, free'd them right up.
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:02 PM   #1065
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Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
All the visible damage was on the top side of the chassis where the screw caused the carbonfiber to billow as it went through.
Try taking off the entire front of the car and check for damage using a long, flat object (like a mudding knife) to see if the chassis is still flat in that area.

I personally am interested to see if the cars that haven't broke are still showing signs of fatigue in the carbon fiber.
You would think that if the top of the chassis blisters slightly as the screw head is pulling through, the suspension block would not sit flat on the surface prior to full failure. I've checked all my blocks and they are solid and remain flush with the chassis. I'm thinking that the whole failure happens at the moment of significant impact.
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