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Old 11-30-2009, 03:39 AM   #931
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Originally Posted by RLMW VQ View Post
a question are most of the people that have had issues running mod ?
both of my clubmate was running 11.5t stock motor....
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:20 AM   #932
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I have to say that some of the responses, even quite detailed responses are still going a bit too far.

Whilst the xray quality is fantasic and this is a part that people are not used to breaking, would it be the same if say the arms were breaking and people weren't used to this occuring.

We had an t2'008 that crakced the chassis in the same way as what is occuring here, the only difference being that it was the battery strap that caused the issue, car hit a barrier head on the lipo moved forward and put stress on the post and subsiquently pulled the screw through the chassis.

Quite simple physics states that a force magnified by a moment arms directed on a small surface will essentially cause something to either break or bend.
The ca glue in the hole assits the c/f from breaking because it is spreading the load accross a larger surface area as opposed to latterally accross the c/f grain.
The new chassis peice will also assist as this is spreading the load over a larger surface area however this is also removing some of the flex in the c/f chassis and subsiquently promotes more understeer. Infact this also occurs when you palce the centre stand in the chassis behind the ackerman arm.
I would go as far as suggesting removing the rear screws at the front of the top deck, screws closest to the ackerman to retain some of the chassis flex.

On an end note i would suggest that every rc car has its weakness, this just happens to be this ones.

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Old 11-30-2009, 04:23 AM   #933
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Originally Posted by kn7671 View Post
I saw my first T3 get broken last night at the end of racing on Chris Adams car.

The damage was the at front of the chassis where the rear front arm suspension holder mounts. The impact was with a 13.5 powered T3 at about 3/4 speed on a straight hitting another car that was at a dead stop.
another T3 having problem here which is same like urs i think....the suspension aluminium holder hole was cracking due to very small impact driving 11.5t motor.....
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:28 AM   #934
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Oh and another note, I would suggest using thread lock in the chassis screws. I have always had some come out on the 09. I presume just from the small vibrations of the rc car and the expansion of the alloy.
So if it starts to come loose on yout t3 and then you put it under load, ie crash lol, then thats a problem.
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:47 AM   #935
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[...]

On an end note i would suggest that every rc car has its weakness, this just happens to be this ones.

Happy Racing.
I think that's very close to what Xray would want the market to accept (don't think they'll admit to it being a weakness, actually they tried to sell it as a flex optimisation).

Problem is, the most commonly accepted presumption in the market is that the most expensive part of any product should be the best protected not the first one to break (i.e. the weakest) hence the disappointment with Xray.
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Old 11-30-2009, 05:24 AM   #936
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Use an aluminum screw. Create your own failure point.
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Old 11-30-2009, 05:41 AM   #937
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Use an aluminum screw. Create your own failure point.
I've thought about that. My only fear would be not being able to get it out of the suspension holder after it breaks. If it failed often then that could also get quite expensive replacing the holders.

Anyone saying that it is OK that a chassis is the weakest part of the car is smoking crack. I don't consider a $95 chassis a disposable part. Sure chassis's break in rare instances but people are saying this is the first part to break on their car. I hope the people saying this suffer a chassis breaking and can feel the pain of those that have had it happen to them. I'm sure after a couple $95 purchases they will feel a bit different about the situation.

Again, my beef is not with Xray (as they are addressing the issue). Its with the people saying this is OK and that people are making too big a deal out of it. I'm quite sure if you asked anyone with Xray they would say it is not their intent for the chassis to be the weakest part of the car and they would never purposely build a car that way.

Can anyone with RC America let us know about availability of this part in the US? My kit is supposed to be in this week or next. Any chance mine with come with the new part?
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:15 AM   #938
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Default I think Xray would have the perfect car....

if they would just redesign the blocks more like the TRF416X and upper tie rod adjustments. Along with Xray's build quality, and other great features. I also think it would be in their best interest to reduce the areas of chassis tweak. One by removing the added stand offs.

I've been running a 008 for some time and I was really disappointed and hoping to update my car for better lipo balance, but that's not going to happen now. So I apologize if I sound negative, but I really wanted to see something in terms of standard design and sleekness. T3 is a $500 chance I don't want to take.

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Old 11-30-2009, 06:37 AM   #939
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I thought I'd chime in here with my T3. But a small disclaimer: I CA'ed my screw holes in the chassis and all screws were coated with Loctite during assembly in all screws terminating into the aluminium.

This past weekend I drove my T3 for the first time using the manual's build setup. It was definitely a decent setup for JACO Blue tires. The car hooked, responded, and was absolutely amazing. Kudos to Xray as always for such great building instructions. There were some adjustments to be made because not all track conditions are the same and no one setup is the be all end all setup for all cars and track conditions. In my assessment, the on-power steering was too finicky since I had too much over steer.

During my first run and learning the car's handling and where I need to adjust the car to my driving habits, I was hit extremely hard on the left side by another driver, enough to render my motor dead (and also made me a follower of the NOVAK Ballistic motors from that day forth). After pulling my car off the track, I saw that my ECS linkage was snapped in two (the shaft dislodged from the axle which was remedied by snapping them together again and replacing the pin). But upon further inspection and without the side of my chassis glued, I had not a single crack anywhere. No chips, lamination peeling, nothing. The chassis was nice and solid. None of my screws were backed out either. All I did was follow Xray's quick tip on their site to remedy the screws being pulled through the chassis and that was that.

It may be luck, it may be divine intervention. Who knows. I will say that I took my time building this car. But at the same time, after reading this thread, I still feel like driving the T3 like I am tip-toeing on eggshells. At a whopping $500 a kit, I don't like to have that feeling. Plus Xray cars have the stigma of being called tanks. This thread gives me the feeling that Xray is not in that business of building durable cars anymore, especially with the most costly part of the car. But I will say that I breathed a major sigh of relief when my chassis was still in tact and not even tweaked after that hard hit.
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:45 AM   #940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xray09ACT View Post
I have to say that some of the responses, even quite detailed responses are still going a bit too far.

Whilst the xray quality is fantasic and this is a part that people are not used to breaking, would it be the same if say the arms were breaking and people weren't used to this occuring.
It depends. If the break of the arms were occurring more frequently than competitive brands, it would be an issue. If it was occurring when you turned on the servo, it would be an issue. If an arm broke, I wouldn't be so mad. The price of an arm: $7. The price of a chassis: $95. I could break 23 arms before spending as much money as the cost of a new chassis... and I think everyone who had their chassis break would PREFER this option.

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On an end note i would suggest that every rc car has its weakness, this just happens to be this ones.
And it shouldn't be. The weakest part should not be the thing that costs the most to replace. Things that should have broken instead (to name a few): hub, hub carrier, arm, shock, hinge pin, kingpin screws, drive shaft. In fact, all of those things could have broke at the same time, and my repair bill would have still been less than a new chassis. Not to mention the work involved.
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:58 AM   #941
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
another T3 having problem here which is same like urs i think....the suspension aluminium holder hole was cracking due to very small impact driving 11.5t motor.....
I am sure you are not the last one who crack the chassis...because there are alot ppl still believe that it is user fault and they will continue use it without the 1 piece holder....
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Old 11-30-2009, 07:24 AM   #942
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I am not sure we're going to hear from any of these people (especially those who barked like mad) when they break the chassis. Watch the for sale section.
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Old 11-30-2009, 07:57 AM   #943
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Originally Posted by mario
The 1-piece suspension holders started to ship from last week. Please contact your distributor to check how you can get this free update.
Posted by Mario Hudy on the Xray forums.
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Old 11-30-2009, 08:00 AM   #944
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Originally Posted by ChristopherKee View Post
Posted by Mario Hudy on the Xray forums.
I will only get it on mid of Dec....can't wait to run my T3....
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Old 11-30-2009, 08:00 AM   #945
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the best way to tell if your chassis is damaged is to see if the pins are both level in the chassis at the bottom if one is slighty higher the chassis is damaged. and i bet if you take the chassis off then you will see the top layer of carbon starting to rise.



this is what i found on mine when i stripped it down to clean it.

Last edited by D34no; 11-30-2009 at 11:15 AM.
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