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Old 11-29-2009, 05:22 PM   #901
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Originally Posted by RLMW VQ View Post
the shaft it 3.18dia and thats is way i filed down a section for the pully to take any clearence issues away
oops sorry, 4mm was the amount you filed not the shaft diameter. gotcha. pictures weren't working for me earlier. I see it now.
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Old 11-29-2009, 05:30 PM   #902
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Not to be rude but you haven't been keeping up. You said "I haven't quite figured out why people seem to feel this car shouldn't break". No one said that. My responses are merely in response to that. All I said is that it is reasonable to expect something else to break prior to the chassis breaking. Every TC is built this way. Like I said it is good Xray is addressing this. My beef isn't with Xray, its with you suggesting a chassis breaking is preferable to other parts breaking.
Goodness, I have to explain everything to ya..I don't get it why people are still complaining about an issue that has been addressed and frankly it's not that much of a mystery. What RC manufacturer designs their cars such that in the event of a crash parts aside from the chassis will break first??? It sucks that people broke their cars and I'm sure Xray will help them out and make them whole but not for the reason of them being at fault but because they do exhibit good customer service habits. You and I are going round and round and I think we are clear where the other stands but we are wasting energy so I won't comment anymore if you respond
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Old 11-29-2009, 05:39 PM   #903
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Default Drilling hole in the shock cap

If you want to get a dead shock, where do you drill the hole?

- Directly through the shock cap straight up through the top
or
- On a 45 degree angle coming out of the top

Do you still bleed the shocks from the bottom until you have no rebound? Any help is appreciated
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Old 11-29-2009, 05:40 PM   #904
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What RC manufacturer designs their cars such that in the event of a crash parts aside from the chassis will break first???
One with more than half a brain?

Having said that I don't think Xray intended for this to happen. It's something that they obviously missed because it never happened in their testing.
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Old 11-29-2009, 05:51 PM   #905
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I think I should include a chassis in my spare part list...
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Old 11-29-2009, 05:55 PM   #906
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Finally ran my T3 today.
Car was fast with stock setup (rubber tire) and... no... nothing broke.
Great car that I am very glad I bought
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:05 PM   #907
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Originally Posted by jammincrtjames View Post
If you want to get a dead shock, where do you drill the hole?

- Directly through the shock cap straight up through the top
or
- On a 45 degree angle coming out of the top

Do you still bleed the shocks from the bottom until you have no rebound? Any help is appreciated
i use the 2nd smallest drill bit included with a dremel set (not sure the size.. but i bet Google might know) and make about a hole at a 60 degree. i start a little under the mount point for the shock. the hole w/in the shock cavity almost everytime ends up dead center.

once you have this hole you wouldn't need to bleed the shocks. they are instantly dead and PERFECT!
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:06 PM   #908
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What RC manufacturer designs their cars such that in the event of a crash parts aside from the chassis will break first???
This statement right here tells me everything I need to know about you.
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:15 PM   #909
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Default The question, should Xray continue to use their roll center design?

I think Xray should abandon it because the shim system is much stronger, easier to change and is why I think many other companies have gone to it.
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:20 PM   #910
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
i use the 2nd smallest drill bit included with a dremel set (not sure the size.. but i bet Google might know) and make about a hole at a 60 degree. i start a little under the mount point for the shock. the hole w/in the shock cavity almost everytime ends up dead center.

once you have this hole you wouldn't need to bleed the shocks. they are instantly dead and PERFECT!
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:20 PM   #911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
i use the 2nd smallest drill bit included with a dremel set (not sure the size.. but i bet Google might know) and make about a hole at a 60 degree. i start a little under the mount point for the shock. the hole w/in the shock cavity almost everytime ends up dead center.

once you have this hole you wouldn't need to bleed the shocks. they are instantly dead and PERFECT!
Ok...so if i understand correct, you drill from outside the shock cap on an angle towards the center. You don't start drilling from the inside out.

Do you have a pic or doe it not really matter where the hole ends up? Last thing. Just fill the shocks up and your finished?

Thanks for the help
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:21 PM   #912
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i think the design works good and is quick and easy to make changes on the fly.you can always shim the outside if needed.
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:24 PM   #913
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i think the design is good and if you need shim you can shim the outside.
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:54 PM   #914
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I saw the test video, and though he is hitting it pretty hard I was wondering if anyone thought that having the a-arm on the car adds leverage and that's what might be helping it break? Just a thought.
Also, does anyone know if it's just the EU version that is breaking? Has anyone heard of anyone breaking the US Foam edition? I wonder if having the chassis on the US edition being a little thicker make it more durrable.
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:58 PM   #915
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where did you see the video? i cant find it on any site
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