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Old 10-29-2009, 09:37 PM   #406
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lipo still need to be taped on t3?
Yes it does how else would it stay in?
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:40 PM   #407
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One last thing- I got a little inside info that a certain Factory Xray driver that already has his T3 has reported it's definitely faster in back to back comparisons... and not just a few hundredths of a second either!
Well of course he is faster with the new car! He is a lazy ass with his 009 on tuning the car

But all seriousness the car does look good on the track.
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Old 10-30-2009, 11:15 AM   #408
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I hate doing shocks. Perhaps we can change, you can do my shocks, I'll do your turnbuckles.

One suggestion I have about making your job easier when doing turnbuckles is to use a turnbuckle tool (the cup holder). HPI used to provide one int heir kits some time gao, not sure if they still do it. Clamping the cup gently in a vice (perhaps using some soft jaws or something soft to cover them) helps a lot.
i already have a turnbuckle tool. thats how lazy i am. id pay $10 more for a car kit if the turnbuckles were pre-assembled.
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Old 10-30-2009, 11:39 AM   #409
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i already have a turnbuckle tool. thats how lazy i am. id pay $10 more for a car kit if the turnbuckles were pre-assembled.
Yeah, I can relate to that. The turnbuckles on the Xray I have have been an absolute bitch to pop on the balls and to screw in. For all that hard work they're too sloppy for my taste. You'de imagine they'd have absolutely no slop by how hard it is to pop them in.
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Old 10-30-2009, 11:40 AM   #410
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Left is from the T2'009 & Right is V2 (T3). Just to let you guys know...
I quoted this because this little picture got lost when you quoted the full size manual pictures. I didn't notice it till just now and thought others would like to see the difference too =).
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Old 10-30-2009, 11:58 AM   #411
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Had see different ,
but unknow how best ?
less steering ?
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XRAY T3-img2110u_th-.jpg  
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Old 10-30-2009, 12:00 PM   #412
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I quoted this because this little picture got lost when you quoted the full size manual pictures. I didn't notice it till just now and thought others would like to see the difference too =).
I see a difference, looks like the V2 arm allows for more steering.
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Old 10-30-2009, 01:43 PM   #413
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Received my X-Ray T3 today in the post, will be building
over the weekend.

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Old 10-30-2009, 02:12 PM   #414
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Yeah, I can relate to that. The turnbuckles on the Xray I have have been an absolute bitch to pop on the balls and to screw in. For all that hard work they're too sloppy for my taste. You'de imagine they'd have absolutely no slop by how hard it is to pop them in.
mine were very very easy to assemble, and my car has close to ZERO slop.
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:40 PM   #415
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just seen the first one on track over here

the club champion was using his tonight

WOW ......

he was 3/10ths quicker with it then he was with the T2 009 he had , and the T3 was built as per the instructions

god knows how quick he will be after a few hours tinkering

i cant keep up now with my old TRF416we
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:22 PM   #416
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WOW ......

he was 3/10ths quicker with it then he was with the T2 009 he had , and the T3 was built as per the instructions
Niceeee
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:28 PM   #417
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Niceeee

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Old 10-30-2009, 10:00 PM   #418
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mine were very very easy to assemble, and my car has close to ZERO slop.
I guess that only demonstrates their production is not entirely reliable.

I found the ball cups were a bitch to push on the balljoints because the plastic is quite hard (by comparison to other cars I have where there is indeed next to no play in the balljoints).
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Old 10-31-2009, 12:12 AM   #419
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
I guess that only demonstrates their production is not entirely reliable.

I found the ball cups were a bitch to push on the balljoints because the plastic is quite hard (by comparison to other cars I have where there is indeed next to no play in the balljoints).
The key is to follow the tips in the instructions. Run and screw/washer through and a nut on the other side. Then tighten the screw and "POP".

Thats it. Mine have always been nice and smooth. They will develop a little slop after a good while, but thats with any ball/cup combination.

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Old 10-31-2009, 01:52 AM   #420
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The key is to follow the tips in the instructions. Run and screw/washer through and a nut on the other side. Then tighten the screw and "POP".

Thats it. Mine have always been nice and smooth. They will develop a little slop after a good while, but thats with any ball/cup combination.

Mike
The screwing (sic) wasn't that bad, and as I said, I have my own way of doing it that makes it easy, but popping the cups on the balls was really difficult especially for the balls that have screws going through which I didn't want to distort at all so I had to push them down on a hard surface using a hollow tool with a big grippy handle. Even so, they took an effort I did not believe to snap on. That made it all the more disappointing when I noticed the slop.

Reading what Capt'n said I wonder if their plastics have changed their formula to be softer or maybe they just had an uncontrolled variation in the plastics.

If you want somethign with no slop at all no matter how much you use it, have a look at Kawada and the older Yokomo balls/cups which are absolutely flawless. The plastic is soft however and I think that's why it doesn't develop slop.
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