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Old 12-15-2011, 08:44 PM   #3391
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Default Yeah Racing and Arrowmax CVDs

Anyone have any experience with the Yeah Racing or Arrowmax spring steel CVDs? Its half the price of the XRay ECS units. Of course, XRay is quality but at $100 for a pair? Thats a bit much.

http://www.rcmart.com/rc-t2t3-yeah-r...y-p-33860.html

http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php...roducts_id=460
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:53 AM   #3392
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I just recently ordered a set of the arrowmax based on the reviews on the '11 thread. I havn't raced them yet but they seem as good as the stock, but no chatter at full lock and full throttle!

I like that they are the 52mm. The shipping was a bit much but I did pay for the express as I wanted them in time for the races this week. I think shipping from RC mart will be about the same.

I have been told to stay away from the Spec-r by too many people to even consider those, but the price it so good and they have a new version that may be a bit tougher.

If price is your catch, check those out and report back. Everyone told me that after one wall hit they are done.
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:36 AM   #3393
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Anyone have any experience with the Yeah Racing or Arrowmax spring steel CVDs? Its half the price of the XRay ECS units. Of course, XRay is quality but at $100 for a pair? Thats a bit much.

http://www.rcmart.com/rc-t2t3-yeah-r...y-p-33860.html

http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php...roducts_id=460
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I just recently ordered a set of the arrowmax based on the reviews on the '11 thread. I havn't raced them yet but they seem as good as the stock, but no chatter at full lock and full throttle!

I like that they are the 52mm. The shipping was a bit much but I did pay for the express as I wanted them in time for the races this week. I think shipping from RC mart will be about the same.

I have been told to stay away from the Spec-r by too many people to even consider those, but the price it so good and they have a new version that may be a bit tougher.

If price is your catch, check those out and report back. Everyone told me that after one wall hit they are done.
None of them really take too much of a beating, but yeah, the Spec-R ones are horrible. The Arrowmax ECS are a little weaker than the XRAY ones in the "cage" area where the pins are held, but I've mangled an XRAY ECS just as easy as the Arrowmax ones.

If you tend to clip corners fairly often, just stick to the kit universals. None of the ECS/DCJ will take very much abuse. After a few DNFs due to broken ECS(and the cost to replace them), I went back to regular universals for club racing. Corner speed might be slightly slower in very tight sections, but I'm more confident to drive the car harder without worrying that a relatively small tap might end my race. On the bench there's a huge difference in smoothness, but it's really not that noticeable on the track.
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:03 PM   #3394
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None of them really take too much of a beating, but yeah, the Spec-R ones are horrible. The Arrowmax ECS are a little weaker than the XRAY ones in the "cage" area where the pins are held, but I've mangled an XRAY ECS just as easy as the Arrowmax ones.

If you tend to clip corners fairly often, just stick to the kit universals. None of the ECS/DCJ will take very much abuse. After a few DNFs due to broken ECS(and the cost to replace them), I went back to regular universals for club racing. Corner speed might be slightly slower in very tight sections, but I'm more confident to drive the car harder without worrying that a relatively small tap might end my race. On the bench there's a huge difference in smoothness, but it's really not that noticeable on the track.
Thanks for talking me out of that upgrade. I'd rather have a car that is reliable than one that is not but only a tenth or two faster.

On another note, its understood that the Spec R. DCJs are junk but what about their gear diffs? The cost of the XRay unit is, of course, double. So would the Spec R. gear diffs be okay or should I consider popping for the XRay diff?
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:08 PM   #3395
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What pinion gear should i use for drift when i use a 19T motor?
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:33 PM   #3396
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Thanks for talking me out of that upgrade. I'd rather have a car that is reliable than one that is not but only a tenth or two faster.

On another note, its understood that the Spec R. DCJs are junk but what about their gear diffs? The cost of the XRay unit is, of course, double. So would the Spec R. gear diffs be okay or should I consider popping for the XRay diff?
The spec-r diffs tend to leak more than the x-ray ones when used as a rear diff. Not generally as smooth either. They'll work perfectly fine for a front diff with heavy oil, putty or diff lock in them though. For the rear, I'd recommend an XRAY gear diff. They're worth the extra $$
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:40 AM   #3397
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Go for the Xray geardiff. The spec-R is crap IMO, hard to get smooth and it leaks with low cst oil, and the weight is about 10gr more than the xray... and if u are going to use spec-R for rear u need 50mm driveshafts, and for the Xray u can use original 52mm driveshaft so the price is going to be almost the same.
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:24 AM   #3398
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Go for the Xray geardiff. The spec-R is crap IMO, hard to get smooth and it leaks with low cst oil, and the weight is about 10gr more than the xray... and if u are going to use spec-R for rear u need 50mm driveshafts, and for the Xray u can use original 52mm driveshaft so the price is going to be almost the same.
Wish I had found this before I bought the Spec-R diff. On that note, what would happen if I spaced the rear arms out to accomodate the 52mm shaft/Spec-R diff combo? So I would essentially be widening the rear track. I would lose steering I think but has anyone done that?
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:26 PM   #3399
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Questions?? New T3 owner

I have picked up a used T3 2010 and was wondering what I needed to know about it. I have run mostly Tamiya cars up to now. I've heard Xray is pricey but the quality & durability make up for it. Certainly the cars perform better than I can drive right now.

I know I could have asked this before hand but the deal was good and I have seen the car run in VTA which is what I plan to do with it so I leaped before I looked.

I picked up the parts cross reference spreadsheet from XRAY so all the parts sharing questions are taken care of.

Apparently there was a foam & rubber edition in 2010. I don't know which I bought but the car ran fine on the LHS indoor asphalt track which is very high traction so I am not too concerned.

Any words of wisdom to share?
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:32 PM   #3400
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Originally Posted by bencason View Post
I have picked up a used T3 2010 and was wondering what I needed to know about it. I have run mostly Tamiya cars up to now. I've heard Xray is pricey but the quality & durability make up for it. Certainly the cars perform better than I can drive right now.

I know I could have asked this before hand but the deal was good and I have seen the car run in VTA which is what I plan to do with it so I leaped before I looked.

I picked up the parts cross reference spreadsheet from XRAY so all the parts sharing questions are taken care of.

Apparently there was a foam & rubber edition in 2010. I don't know which I bought but the car ran fine on the LHS indoor asphalt track which is very high traction so I am not too concerned.

Any words of wisdom to share?
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:41 PM   #3401
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Originally Posted by bencason View Post
I have picked up a used T3 2010 and was wondering what I needed to know about it. I have run mostly Tamiya cars up to now. I've heard Xray is pricey but the quality & durability make up for it. Certainly the cars perform better than I can drive right now.

I know I could have asked this before hand but the deal was good and I have seen the car run in VTA which is what I plan to do with it so I leaped before I looked.

I picked up the parts cross reference spreadsheet from XRAY so all the parts sharing questions are taken care of.

Apparently there was a foam & rubber edition in 2010. I don't know which I bought but the car ran fine on the LHS indoor asphalt track which is very high traction so I am not too concerned.

Any words of wisdom to share?
Congrats!

Just check the XRay site for what the carpet version is in comparison to the asphalt edtion. Usually the carpet version has a thicker chassis and a different top deck for less flex.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...=&catName=XRAY T3 EU Rubber-Spec Edition

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...=&catName=XRAY T3 US Foam-Spec Edition

If you don't have a local source for parts, a good online source is www.nexusracing.com They ship very fast. Order Tues. and it will arrive Fri.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:19 PM   #3402
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Always good advice, thanks!
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:54 PM   #3403
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Congrats!

Just check the XRay site for what the carpet version is in comparison to the asphalt edtion. Usually the carpet version has a thicker chassis and a different top deck for less flex.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...=&catName=XRAY T3 EU Rubber-Spec Edition

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...=&catName=XRAY T3 US Foam-Spec Edition

If you don't have a local source for parts, a good online source is www.nexusracing.com They ship very fast. Order Tues. and it will arrive Fri.
Thanks for the links. I had been to the Xray site but thought those were just "sales" BS. The joke is on me since there is some real info. there!
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:09 PM   #3404
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Questions?? Spec-r gear diff and c.v. drive shafts on T3R

Hi guys!

New to this forum and to xray as well. Wonderful car so far.

Having bought a used T3R a few weeks ago, I ordered a couple of upgrades, namely gear differential and CV driveshafts from Spec-R, but I have troubles fitting them into the car:

The diff: when I measured it, it is wider than the ball diff originally on the car. By wider I mean the "notches" in the output shafts are not deep enough and I can't assble the diff with the drive shafts in it (it won't go) (the xray ball diff is 30.5mm between 'notches' and the spec-r is apx. 34mm). I guess I should have used a special shorter variant of the driveshats? Does anyone have experience with that?

The CV driveshafts from Spec-R also don't fit the car. I actually can't mount the C-hub, because the part of the driveshaft is touching the C-hub and preventing it to moving into its place so that it could be mounted.

I bought the spec-r stuff especially for XRAY T3 (I was told this is compatible with T3R), so I am wondering with might have gone wrong? Perhaps I should use the T3 C-hub which has wider openings so that CV drive shafts can fit inside?

Is T3R not compatible, or did I order the wrong Spec-R parts?

A local racer gave me a hint about cv drive shaft - to wrap it in thermo band (like the one for wires) to prevent it from loosening. Any ideas about that?

Thanks,
Miha.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:47 AM   #3405
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Originally Posted by skyflyer View Post
The diff: when I measured it, it is wider than the ball diff originally on the car. By wider I mean the "notches" in the output shafts are not deep enough and I can't assble the diff with the drive shafts in it (it won't go) (the xray ball diff is 30.5mm between 'notches' and the spec-r is apx. 34mm). I guess I should have used a special shorter variant of the driveshats? Does anyone have experience with that?
I've had the same problem with the XRAY Gear Diffs in my T3 2011. My rear suspension is setup with 1* rear toe hubs with a reduction in the inboard toe adjustment to keep the overall rear toe angle at 3*. All this has the effect of bring the tops of the drive shafts closer to the centerline of the car and when I switched to gear diffs the suspension would bind. My fix was to change to 50mm drive shafts. Other options could be to sand the blades (the plastic caps that are fitted to the drive shafts), maybe, if your good with a dremal remove some material from the diff out drives or widen the overall track width, keep in mind the track width change will mess with your setup.

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The CV driveshafts from Spec-R also don't fit the car. I actually can't mount the C-hub, because the part of the driveshaft is touching the C-hub and preventing it to moving into its place so that it could be mounted.
I assume these are the double jointed (or ECS Drive Shafts in XRAY speak). The T3's (perhaps not the R version) have a revised front C Hub that has the clearance for the joint. The only fix here is the purchase the correct C Hub.


Quote:
Originally Posted by skyflyer View Post
A local racer gave me a hint about cv drive shaft - to wrap it in thermo band (like the one for wires) to prevent it from loosening. Any ideas about that?
You mean heat shrink... right Seems a resonable thing to do, others on this thread have indicated that this is how they run their ECS drive shafts. I've not tried this yet as I broke my ECS shafts a while ago and have not bothered fixing them

Good Luck.

Mark
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