Skiddins

Used the gear diff a couple of times now, once with 1000cSt oil on carpet, which worked well, then today on smooth asphalt using 100cSt then later on with 3000cSt.

I have been advised to try even higher!

With 1000cSt the wheels spin easily, almost like a ball diff that is too loose.

jonny123

Hi,

Ive also been running the spec R gear diff for quite sometime now. Most of the time outdoors in mod ive ran 1000Cst has been really good so far but however at Halifiax thicker 2000/3000 is better.

On high grip carpet (ardent) ive tried lots of oils. On 1000Cst the car was twitchy and over-rotated. 2000Cst felt much better and easier to drive but i ended up on 3000Cst as it made the car feel really planted and had even more drive out of the corners.

Jonathan R

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys...

Am havin some serious problem planting the rear end on my new T3, am not a newbie when it comes to electric onroad cars, just have been out of it for a longtime and need some input on my setup.

Here is the setup
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=1704&setup=t3

Problem am facing is off power the rear end slides out too soon, uncontrollable, and some sweeping corners if I power at mid corner am loosing traction to sometimes a complete spin out.

Now I have the chassis checked flat on the setup board for any tweaks, all shock shafts are straight no damage.

No binding in the mechanics of the car whatsoever, this is a new car and built correctly.

Having tested another body today showed a little improvement an am talking about 5% at the most compared to the team titan blitz altis body.

Another friend of mine is driving a T2 09 spec and has a similar setup, but he likes to have the tail wipe round the corners for his driving style more of a point and shoot drive.

This is his setup http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...0&setup=t2_008

Am more of power round the corners with good grip to the limit of the car and slightly back of if i feel the car is about to break traction but am not there yet in terms of traction on the rear end.

Am guessing the rear diff could be the issue.

Have the car put on tweak station also to check all good there.

Am running a Speed passion motor 4.5T with a GT2.0 ESC punch on 2 timing on full, drag brake on 10% main brakes 75%

Anyone care to shed me some light on this issue.

Thanks

clparsons123

iTrader: (2)

i would try raising rear shocks. maybe add some shims on the rear uprights.move the roll center in the rear tower to the inside lower hole.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Shesha - after spending the last three days practicing on carpet for the first time since the spring, I'd recommended a few things :

#1 spring up-- I started with my asphalt setup but had an oversteer too so I went to 3.4 f and 2.8 rear springs.

#2 add more rear camber gain by adding more shims on your rear hubs

#3 play with ackerman - try reducing the difference by pushing the adjuster to the back. I found this would lock my rear end in. Moving the ackerman adjustment forward would make the car cut in too hard when getting closer to full lock and cause the car to get loose

#4 not sure what Your droop over ride height settings are, but I'd recommend starting with 2mm front and 3mm rear

#5 try adding some antisquat in the rear end.

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Raising the rear shock would yield less traction as i tested that out, i thought roll center upper hole would make more traction cross checkin this info on setup book.

shesha

iTrader: (1)

I did not play too much with the springs yet still stock, will leave that as a last resort.

I will add another 1mm and see if it helps any.

For the ackerman setting your refering back as going up the number as in 5 and not 1 right ? cause one would make the steering more smooth, but yes you are right , as it is today the car locks upon the steering too quickly if u turn too much.

Yeah i was thinking about that also antisquat.

I was trying to source Christopherkees setup anyone has that on hand, I heared it's one of the easiest to cruise around with.

Thx for the tips Hanulec..

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Just to give you guys what track design am running on here it is:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/racing-f...oor-track.html

It's not your crc carpet, but it's close to it, the race line is out already, and it's decent traction not 100% yet there maybe 60%

ark

iTrader: (11)

Looking at your setup the droop value for the rear (7) is wrong it needs to be at 5 to start with.
it also needs 4mm spacer not 2mm on the rear hubs.
I would run the akermann all back to start with and reduce some steering lock.
shock pos looks fine and spring rates look ok too.
i woudnt run any more than 2 deg camber too.
good luck

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Ark whats wrong with running 7 droop in the rear ? Or are you just referring to the default setting being 5 instead of 7.

Have another driver running 7 front and 7 back on his t3 and he is happy with it.

ark

iTrader: (11)

you should verify that droop setting yourself. By running 7 droop you are preloading the springs too much and at 5mm ride height it will make the rear too inconsistent. anyway You are the guy who is spinning out not me lol

shesha

iTrader: (1)

thx for the info, very useful info...

KWT-NITRO

iTrader: (9)

hey guys,

just to clear things up, i'm the friend running a T2 with the same set-up. the set-up is Paul lemieux's 2009 las vegas set-up and changed to my desire and to my driving style.

originally, it has 4mm over the rear hub but i went down to 2 to have less camber gain and lower roll center.

the original set-up gives 2mm front and 3mm rear droop over ride height. i then changed to 3 front and 2 rear ( 6mm front and 7mm rear of down stop) because my car oversteered a bit on corner entry (off throttle) i also run 5mm front and rear ride height.....

7mm is wrong in the rear?? maybe in theory but its working awesome for me. i took Paul's set-up as a base and tweeked it to my driving style. the car is dialed now and very happy with the results.

one last thing, Shesha, Bro you are getting old and you better get used to it. you need a bigger and a slower scale :P

cheers
Ali

maxg123456

Hi, I race indoors in the UK on a low/medium grip carpet track. My car is an Xray 009 with Sorex 28R tires. Not a T3 but I would've thought the same would apply.

Its summer here and i'm having strange handling issues and i've come to the conclusion that the heat is causing the problem and has been for some time. My car also has a lot of power, even with a 13.5 because of having a SP esc with the latest firmware which also exagerates the problem.

When I take out the front screws from the top deck (which you're not really supposed to do as per Xray manual on carpet) the car has horrendous snap oversteer on entry and mid corner, which is why i'm also sure tire temps have hit the roof, because it's no where near as bad in the winter. Even with all screws in barring the front post, the car is better but the problem is less. General setup changes to the car don't solve it, unless I stick on new tires that last 2 runs and then the snap returns!

My tire temps are - FrLeft 83F - FrRight 86F --- RrLeft 83F - RrRight 83F.
To me this seems too high for Sorex 28R tires. I want to stick with this tire, as a lot use it at my club and at the big events its the tire of choice. What setup changes would drastically cool the tires down, other than changing the tire to a higher temp version like 32Rs?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

But this could help with side bite... which can be useful for spec rubber tire racing or any track with chicanes.