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Old 06-24-2010, 09:17 PM   #2446
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Originally Posted by mdowney View Post
Was anyone else hugely disappointed to find no turnbuckle wrenches in their T3 kit? None of the LHS stock them here in Seattle so I had to wait several days to get one from an online shop.
Not really. Having been in r/c for 7 years, I had already purchased the commonly used Hudy tools some time ago. Would rather see the money go towards car components than simple tools.

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Old 06-25-2010, 02:09 AM   #2447
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I made the same jump last month. Get ready for some steering that the Corally never had. I am using a 25% rebound per Jeff Hastings' setup for the Reedy Race that is posted on the Xray website. No squeaking.

Bill
thanks bill drove a mates t3 and loved it and that was stock setup....anyway think i did the bleeding thing too much.....thats why i had to refill...oh well lesson learned..
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:25 AM   #2448
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a tip
Check befor you buy...
lost of companys have Instruction manuals online etc...
instruction manual and you will see a part in it "what you need" or "required"...

and if you get a pro/Competition rc car its more than normal that no tools are included.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdowney View Post
Was anyone else hugely disappointed to find no turnbuckle wrenches in their T3 kit? None of the LHS stock them here in Seattle so I had to wait several days to get one from an online shop.
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:34 AM   #2449
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
I made the same jump last month. Get ready for some steering that the Corally never had. I am using a 25% rebound per Jeff Hastings' setup for the Reedy Race that is posted on the Xray website. No squeaking.

Bill
Wow is there anyone left driving a Corally

Rhys
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Old 06-25-2010, 03:17 AM   #2450
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
very very near upper deck !
the car flex with touch left & right side not balance !

The amount of flexing required to get it to touch on my car is far
more than what the car will be generating on the track.

And as far as balancing my car is perferctly balanced left to right on the Hudy balance buttons.
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Old 06-25-2010, 04:08 AM   #2451
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I was readin the first half of the thread and it was entirely about the Xray suspension mount issues, chassis breaking, etc.

Just to check, do u guys use the 1-piece suspension mount holder for the front's rear suspension block? What about the rear's front suspension block (1-piece or the separate blocks)?

Does it take away much performance?
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:19 AM   #2452
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the front rear 1 piece mount is a must mate...the rear not so important...
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:59 AM   #2453
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Originally Posted by crabboy View Post
Wow is there anyone left driving a Corally

Rhys
Excuse me! I had a JRX-S before the Corally...

Corally is still great on carpet; but, our local track is totally outdoors on either asphalt and dirt.

Bill
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Last edited by Still Bill; 06-25-2010 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:24 AM   #2454
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Originally Posted by ronaldo-1234 View Post
I was readin the first half of the thread and it was entirely about the Xray suspension mount issues, chassis breaking, etc.

Just to check, do u guys use the 1-piece suspension mount holder for the front's rear suspension block? What about the rear's front suspension block (1-piece or the separate blocks)?

Does it take away much performance?
No performance difference with the rear mount being used, it did fix a small variance in rear toe that I had. BTW, I run the 1 piece mounts front and back.
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:16 AM   #2455
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Has any one of you had any problems with lack of clearance between battery and top deck on a T3?

The new battery I just got for my T3 is a little thick, and although it is not tight, there is less than half a milimeter clearance between the battery and the top deck. I am concerned whether this lack of space could be a problem, since I know the T3 chassis is designed to 'flex' to certain extent, and half a milimeter may not be enough room for such flex.

Should I be concerned at all, and if this is a problem, what would be the best way to fix it? (Aside from getting rid of the battery, obviously) Should I remove just a tiny bit of material from the upper deck?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-25-2010, 03:46 PM   #2456
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
No performance difference with the rear mount being used, it did fix a small variance in rear toe that I had. BTW, I run the 1 piece mounts front and back.
does the 1 piece susp mount in the rear has in-built 1 deg toe in like the rear stands?
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:27 PM   #2457
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Originally Posted by ronaldo-1234 View Post
does the 1 piece susp mount in the rear has in-built 1 deg toe in like the rear stands?
the 1 pieces are all the same witdth mate.....the bulkheads are the only thing that is angles to allow for this.....correct..

on another not i noticed the car is so light.....have to add like 80 grams to make it enough without the transponder.... any suggestions????

should i just get the exotek chassis kit???
thanks in advance

oh and onother thing i had to do my left and right epa's are set 15 different....
70 one way 85 the other....just so the blocks travel the same distance......hmm...not a big issue???
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:03 PM   #2458
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[B][COLOR=blue]on another not i noticed the car is so light.....have to add like 80 grams to make it enough without the transponder.... any suggestions????
I use a full-sized JR 9000 servo (with transponder on top) on my T3 because to add weight to that lightest corner of the car. Have 3 of the Hudy 12 gm weights inside the rear battery slots (opposite the motor) and one each Hudy 10 gm weights at the left front and right rear to achieve 1425 grams for ROAR. Using a ThunderPower 5000 battery pack. Car is very balanced at all four corners on my scales.

Quote:
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oh and onother thing i had to do my left and right epa's are set 15 different....70 one way 85 the other....just so the blocks travel the same distance......hmm...not a big issue???
I had the exact same issue when I had the servo horn set vertically while servo was in its neutral position...

Because the servo link from the servo horn goes slightly downward to the servo saver, do not set the servo horn to vertical when attaching it to the servo's drive shaft. Attach the arm leaning slightly forward so it is at a 90 degree angle with the servo link (looking at it from the battery side without the pack in place) while in the neutral position. As you view the action of the servo link to the horn you will see why this placement is necessary.

Prior to doing this, you should set both epa's back to 100 or you will not be able to recognize the positive effect of having the 90 degree angle described above. After you are done adjust L/R travel equally using only steering travel/dual rate. You'll love it!

If you race at NorCal Hobbies, I can show you at the track.

Bill
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:27 PM   #2459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeAKF11 View Post
Has any one of you had any problems with lack of clearance between battery and top deck on a T3?

The new battery I just got for my T3 is a little thick, and although it is not tight, there is less than half a milimeter clearance between the battery and the top deck. I am concerned whether this lack of space could be a problem, since I know the T3 chassis is designed to 'flex' to certain extent, and half a milimeter may not be enough room for such flex.

Should I be concerned at all, and if this is a problem, what would be the best way to fix it? (Aside from getting rid of the battery, obviously) Should I remove just a tiny bit of material from the upper deck?

Thanks in advance!
What battery is that?
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:32 PM   #2460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
I use a full-sized JR 9000 servo (with transponder on top) on my T3 because to add weight to that lightest corner of the car. Have 3 of the Hudy 12 gm weights inside the rear battery slots (opposite the motor) and one each Hudy 10 gm weights at the left front and right rear to achieve 1425 grams for ROAR. Using a ThunderPower 5000 battery pack. Car is very balanced at all four corners on my scales.



I had the exact same issue when I had the servo horn set vertically while servo was in its neutral position...

Because the servo link from the servo horn goes slightly downward to the servo saver, do not set the servo horn to vertical when attaching it to the servo's drive shaft. Attach the arm leaning slightly forward so it is at a 90 degree angle with the servo link (looking at it from the battery side without the pack in place) while in the neutral position. As you view the action of the servo link to the horn you will see why this placement is necessary.

Prior to doing this, you should set both epa's back to 100 or you will not be able to recognize the positive effect of having the 90 degree angle described above. After you are done adjust L/R travel equally using only steering travel/dual rate. You'll love it!

If you race at NorCal Hobbies, I can show you at the track.

Bill
thanks bill. sorted now...so close to same being L/R im happy now
much appreciated
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