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Old 06-08-2010, 11:14 PM   #2341
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Can you give us an idea of what was different on his chassis?
What do you think these differences changed?
I'm sure I'm not the only one who is interested, Thanks!
Paul's chassis was a custom machined piece, that I kind of have the impression that he made himself for testing purposes. It was made for lipo (No cell cut outs) and had some center cut outs. This is all vague, as I was racing and doing my own thing to much to remember.
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:14 AM   #2342
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I believe it was mentioned that the top deck was hollowed all the way through also.
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:16 AM   #2343
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Paul's chassis was a custom machined piece, that I kind of have the impression that he made himself for testing purposes. It was made for lipo (No cell cut outs) and had some center cut outs. This is all vague, as I was racing and doing my own thing to much to remember.
Like an exotek?
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Old 06-09-2010, 11:07 AM   #2344
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When getting a new T3, besides the usual spares like arms, c-hub, uprights, knuckles, what are the other option parts that is good to have?

How does the option F/R arms, upright compare to the standard ones?
How does the option ESC drive shaft compare to the standard ones?
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Old 06-09-2010, 04:36 PM   #2345
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Originally Posted by ronaldo-1234 View Post
When getting a new T3, besides the usual spares like arms, c-hub, uprights, knuckles, what are the other option parts that is good to have?

How does the option F/R arms, upright compare to the standard ones?
How does the option ESC drive shaft compare to the standard ones?
you should pick up a hard foam bumper, some replacement 'blades' for drive shafts, and maybe the aluminum spool cups. you'll wanna pick up a bunch of spurs too. the 50mm dog bones can cause the car to steer more up front, or have more roll in the rear.

Martin Hudy talks about some of the optional parts here: http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic....9739&start=180

For the ECS - they are really useful on rubber tire carpet racing. they aren't really necessary -- and are not worth it if you're slamming into things. they can get expensive to replace/fix.
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Old 06-09-2010, 04:44 PM   #2346
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Like an exotek?
No, it had big open cut outs in the center of the chassis, there was 4 I believe, and they went the length of the chassis. It was very cool
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Old 06-09-2010, 05:12 PM   #2347
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No, it had big open cut outs in the center of the chassis, there was 4 I believe, and they went the length of the chassis. It was very cool
optimized multi-flex lol
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:14 PM   #2348
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Was it one of these maybe

http://www.smokem-racing.com/T3LP1.html
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:41 PM   #2349
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optimized multi-flex lol
Hahaha! It was optimized for sure

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Was it one of these maybe

http://www.smokem-racing.com/T3LP1.html
Noooope. Was custom made by himself. Im amazed no one took pics of his car from reedy. I would of but it was the last thing on my mind lol
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Old 06-09-2010, 11:30 PM   #2350
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If he is at the world i will snap some pictures of the chassis
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:59 AM   #2351
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What are most using to balance their car and how do you go about doing it? Can four scale technique work, or does tweak play a factor?
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Old 06-10-2010, 05:10 PM   #2352
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the hudy balance pins
you can place them in the middle for front to back as well

if you use scales you need fixed link, to replace all four shocks, that is the exact same length as your shocks
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Old 06-10-2010, 05:21 PM   #2353
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the hudy balance pins
you can place them in the middle for front to back as well
The IRS balance buttons work far better than the Hudy balance pins and cost less.

One of the few non-Hudy tools in my pit box.

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Old 06-10-2010, 05:36 PM   #2354
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Just curious, how durable are the stock xray belts? I never broke any belts on my cyclone so I'm wondering if it is still necessary to stock up on them.
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:13 PM   #2355
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What are most using to balance their car and how do you go about doing it? Can four scale technique work, or does tweak play a factor?
like people said, pins work great. you can also get away with two scales and two equal pieces of 1" sq x 12" aluminum stock. you set your ride height equal (i.e. do not apply a tweak) and then using the two scales and the aluminum stock balance the car left / right and front / rear.

in the US to make 1420/1425 w/ rubber tire i'm using xray 10g weights at the front of the car, on the left and right, in front of the battery and servo. i run a 15g weight behind my battery at the rear. finally, i put 3x7g sticky lead slightly off center close to my ESC and servo -- away from the belts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeAKF11 View Post
Just curious, how durable are the stock xray belts? I never broke any belts on my cyclone so I'm wondering if it is still necessary to stock up on them.
unless your running modified, your belts will more than last any race reason. i swap belts (mostly the front belt) out before important races or when swapping from indoor to outdoor season/etc.
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