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Old 06-02-2010, 04:37 AM   #2266
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I had screws come a touch loose after a few runs and just checked them after each run for about the first 10 or so. I ended up adding a small touch of ca glue to the screw holes on the chassis and doing that has made some of then very hard to crack when releasing all scres to remove tweak. As for the CVD issue, IMO build them dry without any lube and a tiny bit of purple thread lock with flat spot pins. I let them dry overnight and check for binding which can happen when building dry. Then add much more joint lube or associated green slime and go. I would like to try a spray on joint lube like Inox Mx8 http://www.inoxed.com/mx8.htm

Anyone use this stuff?
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:14 AM   #2267
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are there any cvd pins that come with a flat spot on them out there?
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Old 06-02-2010, 12:24 PM   #2268
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are there any cvd pins that come with a flat spot on them out there?

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...at%20Spot%20(2)

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Old 06-02-2010, 01:12 PM   #2269
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are there any cvd pins that come with a flat spot on them out there?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-w-Flat-Spot-2

This should fix your problem if the pins came out. You could also use some shrink wrap in addition to this.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...at-Shrink-Wrap
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:25 PM   #2270
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Thinking of buying the spec r gear diff. How are you guys liking it so far?
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:31 PM   #2271
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are there any cvd pins that come with a flat spot on them out there?

XRAY
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:57 PM   #2272
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As for the CVD issue, IMO build them dry without any lube and a tiny bit of purple thread lock with flat spot pins. I let them dry overnight and check for binding which can happen when building dry. Then add much more joint lube or associated green slime and go. I would like to try a spray on joint lube like Inox Mx8 http://www.inoxed.com/mx8.htm

Anyone use this stuff?
For the ECS I also build them dry, blue locktite on the threads. Let dry for a few hours and then lube with Hudy graphite grease. 10mm heatshrink around the uni only over hang heatshrink 1-2mm each side. Heatshrink has saved me a few times from loose or broken pins ending a race.

To re-lube, wash in Shellite, then compressed air to dry, re-lube with Hudy graphite grease. I NEVER undo the set screws after the first time Locktite unless the pin breaks (which does happen oscasionally in 10.5 & mod) or replacing bent shaft etc.

I have tried spray on lube (some German bearing lube, $100 a can), and it's pretty good if you don't want to remove the heatshrink all the time.
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:32 PM   #2273
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Alum steering block for T3.

Anyone uses the alum steering block on their T3, will it has noticeable less steering than the plastic Ver 2 steering block that come with T3?

I am no sure why I have major problem breaking the T3 plastic steering block just like cheap toy car plastic. No issue with my T2009 before for playing in the same track, in fact, never break 1 at all in T2009.
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Old 06-02-2010, 07:15 PM   #2274
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Alum steering block for T3.

Anyone uses the alum steering block on their T3, will it has noticeable less steering than the plastic Ver 2 steering block that come with T3?

I am no sure why I have major problem breaking the T3 plastic steering block just like cheap toy car plastic. No issue with my T2009 before for playing in the same track, in fact, never break 1 at all in T2009.
Are you buying the foam car knuckles or the med flex ones? Ive seen some crazy t3 crashes with no broken parts. Ive never used the alu knuckles so I cant comment on those
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Old 06-02-2010, 07:24 PM   #2275
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Aluminum knuckles will make the car push. Are you using the "M" knuckle or the "H"? You want the H (Hard) for all conditions with rubber tires.
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Old 06-02-2010, 07:49 PM   #2276
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Aluminum knuckles will make the car push. Are you using the "M" knuckle or the "H"? You want the H (Hard) for all conditions with rubber tires.
Dear Sir,

I am using the rubber spec "M" knuckle, as my LHS never stock the "H" type.

I have broken 3 knuckles in just 2 days of play which I didnt think I was abusing the car at all. Worst of all, no stock for the "M" knuckle from my LHS at the moment, they only have the alum one in stock.

Like I said earlier, never have any problem with the older T2009, never break a single part before.

Thanks. I guess I will wait for the re-stock for the plastic knuckles.
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Old 06-02-2010, 09:45 PM   #2277
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Dear Sir,

I am using the rubber spec "M" knuckle, as my LHS never stock the "H" type.

I have broken 3 knuckles in just 2 days of play which I didnt think I was abusing the car at all. Worst of all, no stock for the "M" knuckle from my LHS at the moment, they only have the alum one in stock.

Like I said earlier, never have any problem with the older T2009, never break a single part before.

Thanks. I guess I will wait for the re-stock for the plastic knuckles.
Where is it breaking?
The only time i have seen issues is when the screws used on the top and bottom are not long enough, they should thread 98% the way through to where the axle sits. If its only holding on by a few threads you will pull out the top screw especially very easy.
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:11 PM   #2278
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Hey guys, just a quick question with regards to Xray shock oil... the little bottle hat I have says 350 cSt... is this the same as 35wt?

any help appreciated.
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:31 PM   #2279
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Quote:
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Where is it breaking?
The only time i have seen issues is when the screws used on the top and bottom are not long enough, they should thread 98% the way through to where the axle sits. If its only holding on by a few threads you will pull out the top screw especially very easy.
Dear Sir,

It only break at the bottom side. Do you have any experience running the alum steering block?
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:34 PM   #2280
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Hey guys,

Just after some help with my T3. The car is very fast but lacks rear traction when exiting a corner or entering a corner. Im racing on an asphalt tight track with low traction. Coming out of a corner the rear of the car just wants to let go. Im running Kit setup with 30wt shock oil all around (%100 Rebound) i have moved the front and rear shocks in 1 hole from kit set up. I have gone to 1mm shims all around on the hubs. Front sway bar is now a 1.3 Everything else is as per kit set up. As i said the car is fast and i dont wanna compromise its performance by changing alot just to gain rear end traction. is there anything i can do to get somemore rear end traction?

Thanks heaps Guys
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