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Old 05-31-2010, 03:42 PM   #2251
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Originally Posted by B4james View Post
Don't even bother with the NT1 diff as you have to make a ball diff pulley fit it.

You can buy the SpecR one which is already made for the T3, all you need is to buy the diff and then also use 50mm CVD bones.

http://www.rabhobbies.com.au/estore/...p/cPath/62_348
thanks for the answer, what oil range is normally used in an oil diff for an electric car?? is it like nitro (40K-60K) range or way less??

cheers

ALi
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Old 05-31-2010, 04:26 PM   #2252
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Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO View Post
thanks for the answer, what oil range is normally used in an oil diff for an electric car?? is it like nitro (40K-60K) range or way less??

cheers

ALi
I run 1000wt diff lube in my converted NT1 gear diff, and its worth the time to convert it, done right it looks very good.
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Old 05-31-2010, 04:54 PM   #2253
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Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO View Post
thanks for the answer, what oil range is normally used in an oil diff for an electric car?? is it like nitro (40K-60K) range or way less??

cheers

ALi
this one no good !
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Old 05-31-2010, 06:21 PM   #2254
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Ive settled for 500w much more oil for a medium grip track and I will be building up another with 1000 for high grip. I think this is all that I should need.
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Old 05-31-2010, 06:24 PM   #2255
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I run 1000wt diff lube in my converted NT1 gear diff, and its worth the time to convert it, done right it looks very good.
Do you have any pictures of what a converted diff looks like, and which parts are required to be modified and how etc?

Skiddins
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Old 05-31-2010, 06:45 PM   #2256
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I run 1000wt diff lube in my converted NT1 gear diff, and its worth the time to convert it, done right it looks very good.
pics or it never happened lol
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:47 PM   #2257
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pics or it never happened lol
I've seen it. Car looks very good, and the gear diff doesn't look like it wasn't meant to be there.
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Old 06-01-2010, 01:47 AM   #2258
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What is the most simple way to do Xray T3 standard shocks. Is there a way to get off the bottom cap without the Hudy tool?

Thanks in advance
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Old 06-01-2010, 03:56 AM   #2259
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hey guys,

why is everybody asking about the gear diff?? what's wrong with the ball diff?? arent all top xray drivers running with ball diffs???

whats not good about them ball diffs??

cheers

Ali
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:57 AM   #2260
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Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO View Post
hey guys,

why is everybody asking about the gear diff?? what's wrong with the ball diff?? arent all top xray drivers running with ball diffs???

whats not good about them ball diffs??

cheers

Ali
Nothing wrong with the ball diff. The gear diff is just a no maintenance piece, with no slip, if you do lots of club racing on a high traction track its a nice tuning variable.
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:59 AM   #2261
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Do you have any pictures of what a converted diff looks like, and which parts are required to be modified and how etc?

Skiddins
pm me your e-mail address.
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Old 06-01-2010, 01:54 PM   #2262
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Where can you buy a geared diff?

Also what are everyones thoughts on it?
Many Thanks Ben
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:17 AM   #2263
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Default T3 Debut

Upgrading from a faultless T2008, my debut with the T3 didn't quite go to plan.....

Open practise, the 2 screws on the one piece arm mount came loose causing a total front end failure. Later also found out the little pins in the CVD's had backed out causing major damage (binding) of the front 2 CVD's. Much filing later I got them working again in time for Heat 1. Warm up laps, I lose it into the barrier to break a front outdrive. Later find out that the screws holding the front shock tower had backed out. Did this cause my error? Maybe? So i find a replacement outdrive, tighten up ALL the screws, give it a test blast on my table and notice the another pin on the front CVD's is loose. Replace both pins, apply thread lock and make it out to Heat 2. Now the rear pin comes loose.DNF again. Qual Dead last obviously but get the car re-built and I only make 3 laps. To be honest I can't remember what came loose that time, but something did....... Got the SH&%#, packed up and went home.

Was I extremely unlucky? Any tips on tightening the CVD's? Should I be using thread lock on the general screws going into the Arm Mounts and other alluminium components?

Cheers
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:33 AM   #2264
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Originally Posted by Sith Lord View Post
Upgrading from a faultless T2008, my debut with the T3 didn't quite go to plan.....

Open practise, the 2 screws on the one piece arm mount came loose causing a total front end failure. Later also found out the little pins in the CVD's had backed out causing major damage (binding) of the front 2 CVD's. Much filing later I got them working again in time for Heat 1. Warm up laps, I lose it into the barrier to break a front outdrive. Later find out that the screws holding the front shock tower had backed out. Did this cause my error? Maybe? So i find a replacement outdrive, tighten up ALL the screws, give it a test blast on my table and notice the another pin on the front CVD's is loose. Replace both pins, apply thread lock and make it out to Heat 2. Now the rear pin comes loose.DNF again. Qual Dead last obviously but get the car re-built and I only make 3 laps. To be honest I can't remember what came loose that time, but something did....... Got the SH&%#, packed up and went home.

Was I extremely unlucky? Any tips on tightening the CVD's? Should I be using thread lock on the general screws going into the Arm Mounts and other alluminium components?

Cheers
Ian
did you buy the car new ??

I have run my car since it was released here in Europe , and have only broken spool outdrivs after crashes , i bought some alloy ones from Ebay and they are perfect .

My CVD's i stripped then added a small amount of locktite to a CLEAN screw . it is important to clean the threads in the CVD's and the screw so the loctite can bite to clean metal not to oil or grease .

I also wrap my ECS axles in shrink wrap to keep the dust and crud out for longer , and use Hudy oil on them after every race weekend

I never use loctite on any other screws buti know guys that do so i think it is personal preferance
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:22 AM   #2265
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I use slightly longer pins, and ground a flat spot in the middle of the pin where the grub screw sits on. And I dont use loctite anymore. 30second CA works better
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