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Old 05-04-2010, 03:39 AM   #2041
b33
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Default t3 diffs

can anyone give good advise on how tight the rear diff needs to be on a t3 mod . if i tighten it more than 3/4 turn from bottomed it handles real bad .but it has a lot more drive. thanks
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Old 05-04-2010, 04:35 AM   #2042
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can anyone give good advise on how tight the rear diff needs to be on a t3 mod . if i tighten it more than 3/4 turn from bottomed it handles real bad .but it has a lot more drive. thanks
if you sand the diff rings with 800 grit sand paper till they are flat. and use associated diff lube the diff will require less preload and slip less. Tighten till you can't spin the diff while holding the spur gear and one tire. Ie there should be no slippage during a bench test.
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Old 05-04-2010, 04:55 AM   #2043
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if you sand the diff rings with 800 grit sand paper till they are flat. and use associated diff lube the diff will require less preload and slip less. Tighten till you can't spin the diff while holding the spur gear and one tire. Ie there should be no slippage during a bench test.
ill do that when i go to rebuild my whole car this weekend.

Im racing 10.5 at my local track
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Old 05-04-2010, 01:42 PM   #2044
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
if you sand the diff rings with 800 grit sand paper till they are flat. and use associated diff lube the diff will require less preload and slip less. Tighten till you can't spin the diff while holding the spur gear and one tire. Ie there should be no slippage during a bench test.
The guys on the xray forum suggest you need a bit of slip in the diff for it to work right. So where you say "no slippage" they would say a little slippage when using a lot of force. Playing with the amount of slip does make a big difference with handling. Luckily xray makes it easy to adjust.
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Old 05-04-2010, 01:51 PM   #2045
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The guys on the xray forum suggest you need a bit of slip in the diff for it to work right. So where you say "no slippage" they would say a little slippage when using a lot of force. Playing with the amount of slip does make a big difference with handling. Luckily xray makes it easy to adjust.
A little slip with a 4.5 means a nuked diff.. do what you want.
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Old 05-04-2010, 02:15 PM   #2046
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When i rebuild my diff i start with cleaning everything

Then i sand the diff rings till i cannot see the lines on the diff rings , then i add a small smear if Assosiated diff fat to both sides of the diff rings and into the holes of the diff balls NOT A LOT this is good stuff but if you add too much it will spray out everywhere attracting dirt and dust.

Add asso fat to the thrust bearing , and rebuild this to the diff half

Then i add Hudy bearing oil to the bearings (this is THE BEST oil in the world !!)

Then add the diff balls into the pulley and screw the 2 pieces together

I leave the diff as loose as i can get away with then after fitting it to the car i hold one wheel and give a GENTLE !! press on the throttle at LOW speed then the same on other wheel, this beds the diff in slightly , then i hold both rear wheels and try to turn the spur gear and adjust if necessary, you need to think about how much torque your motor has in comparison to your finger .

I.E. if you run 21 class then your motor wont slip the diff as easily as a mod motor, so you can run it looser , i tighten the dif so i can move the spur slightly with my finger , thus a small amount of slippage , but during my first battery i try to listen to the car out of the corners to hear for the motor reving and diff slipping if this is happening i will stop and adjust it a small amount to stop it.

My diff is so loose usually i can spin one wheel's with little or no resistance

It is a difficult thing to get good but if you can master it then you have a loverly smooth diff and unwanted no slipping.

Hope you understand my jibberish
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Old 05-04-2010, 06:55 PM   #2047
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Default Kick up question?

I wan to try to run kick up on my car> I currently run center dots on the suspension holders all around.

Which should I lower or raise?

Zero in front with -75 rear

or

+75 front zero in the rear
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Old 05-04-2010, 08:36 PM   #2048
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I wan to try to run kick up on my car> I currently run center dots on the suspension holders all around.

Which should I lower or raise?

Zero in front with -75 rear

or

+75 front zero in the rear

The first option would give you a lower roll center and provide the front end more traction.

The 2nd option would do the opposite.

Jammin - could you give me your secret to building the perfect shock? Eager minds need to know.

Also hit me up if you want to travel this Sunday for some racing
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Old 05-05-2010, 04:01 AM   #2049
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Hi, have anyone tried the new one hole rear hub and the H1 and H2 links.

Do you guy´s have any special treatment and set up for the T3 and Sorex 36.

Thanks.
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Old 05-05-2010, 05:27 AM   #2050
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
When i rebuild my diff i start with cleaning everything

Then i sand the diff rings till i cannot see the lines on the diff rings , then i add a small smear if Assosiated diff fat to both sides of the diff rings and into the holes of the diff balls NOT A LOT this is good stuff but if you add too much it will spray out everywhere attracting dirt and dust.
I dont understand why the manual says to put grease to the side of the diff ring that touches the drive shaft. Ive seen some cars that the diff ring and drive shafts have a D shape so it doesnt slip?
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:46 AM   #2051
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I dont understand why the manual says to put grease to the side of the diff ring that touches the drive shaft. Ive seen some cars that the diff ring and drive shafts have a D shape so it doesnt slip?
Tamiya do it that way , but the T3 is round so the disc can spin , even when i ran a TRF416 i still greasec both sides , I think it protected the metal slightly

Only the thinnest of thin layers though
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Old 05-05-2010, 09:46 AM   #2052
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Makes assembly easier by allowing the diff ring to stick to the outdrive.
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Old 05-05-2010, 09:52 AM   #2053
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
Tamiya do it that way , but the T3 is round so the disc can spin , even when i ran a TRF416 i still greasec both sides , I think it protected the metal slightly

Only the thinnest of thin layers though
Quote:
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Makes assembly easier by allowing the diff ring to stick to the outdrive.
But we dont want the ring to slip on the outdrive, why would be grease it?
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Old 05-05-2010, 10:24 AM   #2054
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As sidecar mentioned, only the thinnest of layers to prevent this. The rings aren't keyed so a little grease acts like a temporary glue to hold the ring in place while you assemble.

You won't have a problem, trust me.
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Old 05-05-2010, 10:38 AM   #2055
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But we dont want the ring to slip on the outdrive, why would be grease it?
i was posting MY way of rebuilding my diff , it is maybe not the correct way of doing it , but it works well and it stays good for a long time
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