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Old 04-03-2010, 04:01 AM   #1831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
hey fellas

i am after a bit of set up help on a mid grip Asphalt track

this is my current set up , although i am struggling on corner entry , i have MASSIVE amount of rear grip but a lot of front push

2 degree rear camber
1.5 degree front camber
2 degree inboard rear toe 1 degree on the ugrights
1 degree front toe out
all the flex screws on the upper deck removed
inner acceman all the way rearwards then 3 clicks forward
2 hole suspension arms for the shocks
lower shock mount outer hole
300 oil in the shocks
droop 5.5mm front 5mm rear (dropped the front from 6mm to gain some front grip)
ride height of 5mm
HPI gold front springs
HPI silver rear springs
kit the rest
sweep EXP30 tyres
Try going to 400-450 oil and put the rear posts in and silver/2.8 springs all round.

Rest looks fine. This should help with your issues
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:40 AM   #1832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
hey fellas

i am after a bit of set up help on a mid grip Asphalt track

this is my current set up , although i am struggling on corner entry , i have MASSIVE amount of rear grip but a lot of front push

2 degree rear camber
1.5 degree front camber
2 degree inboard rear toe 1 degree on the ugrights
1 degree front toe out
all the flex screws on the upper deck removed
inner acceman all the way rearwards then 3 clicks forward
2 hole suspension arms for the shocks
lower shock mount outer hole
300 oil in the shocks
droop 5.5mm front 5mm rear (dropped the front from 6mm to gain some front grip)
ride height of 5mm
HPI gold front springs
HPI silver rear springs
kit the rest
sweep EXP30 tyres
350-400 rear oil, 450-500 front.
If you have plenty of rear grip you could reduce rear toe to 2deg etc that will definietly help with turn in.
1.15mm front shims at wishbone.
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Old 04-03-2010, 07:30 AM   #1833
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thanks for the tips guys

i am changing the oil now as this was sudested buy a few of you and i dont like doing them at the track side if i can avoide it ,

i have various springs from Xray but due to a slight oversight on my part i ordered 2 sets of 2.6 and no 2.8's so if someone wants a swap let me know LOL

i will let you know how i get on (if the rain stops)
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:32 PM   #1834
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Will the old prs Pro lite touring spurs fit on the t3?
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Old 04-04-2010, 06:45 PM   #1835
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Well I joined the dark side...

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Old 04-04-2010, 07:11 PM   #1836
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Well I joined the dark side...

Very Nice
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Old 04-04-2010, 07:40 PM   #1837
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hi guys can any tell me what other parts or work that can make the ball diff last in mod more then two runs the xray diff seem to not last as long between rebuilds.im not a newbie there must be something im missing
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Old 04-04-2010, 07:55 PM   #1838
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hi guys can any tell me what other parts or work that can make the ball diff last in mod more then two runs the xray diff seem to not last as long between rebuilds.im not a newbie there must be something im missing
its hard to make the diffs last with full on modified power. i know that Paul L. rebuilds diffs every four runs. additionally, he replaces the thrust bearings about 7 times more frequently than the rings and balls. i've been mostly running 13.5T indoors - which has some wear on thrusts as compared to 17.5T. i'd just suggest you get a ton of thrust bearings - try different brands - you might have more luck w/ other types. i've been using some from mcmaster with good success.
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:05 PM   #1839
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Well I joined the dark side...

:drool:
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:16 PM   #1840
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hi guys can any tell me what other parts or work that can make the ball diff last in mod more then two runs the xray diff seem to not last as long between rebuilds.im not a newbie there must be something im missing
i use ceramic balls and schumacher grease and my diff has had about 20 runs in mod with a 4.5 and it still feels like butter. also make sure its not slipping, as this will make it go bad after one run.
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:28 PM   #1841
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Well I joined the dark side...

Looks awesome. Might want to grease up the front cvd's. Looks like your getting some wear on them.
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:32 PM   #1842
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Thanks guys

Chris, its just weird in the picture. I was looking at that thinking the same thing, and went and double checked my car and its not there lol. It was dark in my house and I had to bump the brightness up, so I think thats what made it do that

Out of curiosity how many of you guys run the stock plastic out drives? Mine seem fine so far with a 4.5. But I havent ran it a ton so far
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:50 PM   #1843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
hey fellas

i am after a bit of set up help on a mid grip Asphalt track

this is my current set up , although i am struggling on corner entry , i have MASSIVE amount of rear grip but a lot of front push

2 degree rear camber
1.5 degree front camber
2 degree inboard rear toe 1 degree on the ugrights
1 degree front toe out
all the flex screws on the upper deck removed
inner acceman all the way rearwards then 3 clicks forward
2 hole suspension arms for the shocks
lower shock mount outer hole
300 oil in the shocks
droop 5.5mm front 5mm rear (dropped the front from 6mm to gain some front grip)
ride height of 5mm
HPI gold front springs
HPI silver rear springs
kit the rest
sweep EXP30 tyres

You have not mentioned roll centers........... These are very important so is the wheelbase! Use low roll center blocks in the front and make the top link as long and as flat as you can get it and as flat as possible.
On the rear try high roll center and angle the upper arm with a 1 or 2 mm. shim under it on the rear hub. Droop also effects steering , more chassis lift in the rear off power will give more steering entering a corner.....
Paul Rush............
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:35 PM   #1844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.I.M.P View Post
hi guys can any tell me what other parts or work that can make the ball diff last in mod more then two runs the xray diff seem to not last as long between rebuilds.im not a newbie there must be something im missing
The problem with the diff is all in the grease you use. You need to use a thicker grease as anything thin will just "spit" out. If you rebyuild a diff and only in one run it is dry, check the inside of your dust covers and the outside of your pulley. All the grease should be there. Try and use something thick like schumacher or Corally grease.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
Thanks guys


Out of curiosity how many of you guys run the stock plastic out drives? Mine seem fine so far with a 4.5. But I havent ran it a ton so far
The plastic spool outdrives are awesome. They last quite a while. if you get worried, put a tiny bit of black grease on the pins. Most prefer tham over the aluminium ones. Besides there not black The plastic ones are heavier than the aluminium ones with blades.
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:39 PM   #1845
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
The problem with the diff is all in the grease you use. You need to use a thicker grease as anything thin will just "spit" out. If you rebyuild a diff and only in one run it is dry, check the inside of your dust covers and the outside of your pulley. All the grease should be there. Try and use something thick like schumacher or Corally grease.



The plastic spool outdrives are awesome. They last quite a while. if you get worried, put a tiny bit of black grease on the pins. Most prefer tham over the aluminium ones. Besides there not black The plastic ones are heavier than the aluminium ones with blades.
Actually they both weigh the same. I just weighed them both last week but for the life of me the actual number escapes me at the moment!
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