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Old 03-02-2010, 06:58 AM   #1591
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The sphere tc was one of the first esc's that I know of to have some built in timing advance. The advance it has is minimal, especially compared to the tekin etc. But it still has some. As the brushless have evolved they have more and more timing built in or able to be adjusted. I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure that's correct.
I really think your thinking SPX man, because if the sphear had such minimal timing advance, I can't see you needing to drop to 5.0-6.0 in 17.5. The last 3 profiles on a SPX had ever more violent timing gain, which ment you needed to lower your FDR more and more the higher the number profile. I ran 5.5 fdr in 17.5 SPX at RCPlus. Car sucked all day and I had no clue what to do with it, but I seemed to have a good amount of motor. (figuring it was only a 17.5, so there was really not much motor there )

SPX and Sphears look the same with the heat sink installed.

-Mike
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:12 AM   #1592
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Hey guys just picked up a used t3 from a fellow rc tech member. My question is what kind of rebound are you guys running on your shocks and is it worth building the shocks with the clicker adjustment or just stick to the standard 2 or 3 hole piston setup? Also another question how do you's break in a freshly rebuilt diff? i have never rebuilt a diff on a touring car so this is all new to me!!! Thanks for any info!!!
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:41 AM   #1593
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Hey guys just picked up a used t3 from a fellow rc tech member. My question is what kind of rebound are you guys running on your shocks and is it worth building the shocks with the clicker adjustment or just stick to the standard 2 or 3 hole piston setup? Also another question how do you's break in a freshly rebuilt diff? i have never rebuilt a diff on a touring car so this is all new to me!!! Thanks for any info!!!
I would go for around 25% rebound. Around there works the best for alot of people. If you and try and build them with 0% rebound, generally the shocks become very hard to build. I wound go standard, but some people like clickers, up 2 you really. No benifit in either. 3 hole pistons, 1.1mm. And yes run teh diff in after a frest build
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:51 AM   #1594
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I really think your thinking SPX man, because if the sphear had such minimal timing advance, I can't see you needing to drop to 5.0-6.0 in 17.5. The last 3 profiles on a SPX had ever more violent timing gain, which ment you needed to lower your FDR more and more the higher the number profile. I ran 5.5 fdr in 17.5 SPX at RCPlus. Car sucked all day and I had no clue what to do with it, but I seemed to have a good amount of motor. (figuring it was only a 17.5, so there was really not much motor there )

SPX and Sphears look the same with the heat sink installed.

-Mike
I have a sphere TC in the other room. I ran the novak gtb right before, There is some timing built in.. anyhow..
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:55 AM   #1595
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Hey guys just picked up a used t3 from a fellow rc tech member. My question is what kind of rebound are you guys running on your shocks and is it worth building the shocks with the clicker adjustment or just stick to the standard 2 or 3 hole piston setup? Also another question how do you's break in a freshly rebuilt diff? i have never rebuilt a diff on a touring car so this is all new to me!!! Thanks for any info!!!
Carpet? 550 shock oil front, 350 rear, 3 hole fixed pistons seem to be what works well. so thats 1.0mm holes. Try that and go from there.

Rebound is in the dead to 20% range. No foam insert in the bladder.

Diff - tear it down, clean everything with solvent. Lube the thrust bearing with hudy black moly grease. Lube the diff balls and rings with associated clear diff grease (diff slips less). and be careful not to preload the diff to much as you need to bed the diff rings and balls. some people apply throttle while holding one of the rear wheels. I usually just break it in on track being mindful of diff slippage. and adjusting every 1/2 pack till its seated (about 3 for me)

hope this helps
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:38 PM   #1596
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Hey how often are you guy`s rebuilding or re-lubing your diff? Thank`s guy`s
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Old 03-03-2010, 05:39 PM   #1597
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Thanks for the input guys
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Old 03-03-2010, 05:51 PM   #1598
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I have a sphere TC in the other room. I ran the novak gtb right before, There is some timing built in.. anyhow..
the TC has fixed timing advance, meaning the timing is set by the esc based on the profile and it stays there

the spx has timing that actually changes during the run



mike: you are going xray too?
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:41 PM   #1599
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mike: you are going xray too?
Yup, going back to Xray. I heard you got one, build that thing yet? Hope I can get mine done for spring break. Itching to run SWR
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:42 PM   #1600
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Hey how often are you guy`s rebuilding or re-lubing your diff? Thank`s guy`s


every 20-25 runs or when it feels crunchy. also depends on what you running in your diff. ceramic or carbide diff balls.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:44 PM   #1601
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I've always used about 50-75% rebound, but I guess it's just personal preference. It is easier to set a shock to "0" as in little to no rebound.

I have the clicker shocks on one of my vehicles, and they are pretty cool. I don't know that I prefer them over standard, though. It is faster to just "click" it where you like, but theoretically if the shock was ever fully lengthened it could catch on the clicker and not extend completely. However, I don't think that TC's have/use enough suspension travel to completely elongate a shock assembly, unless you're running 8 mm of droop, so I've never had it happen nor do I worry about it.

I like 2-hole front, 1-hole rear for the pistons
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:35 PM   #1602
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Have any of you guys swapped out the hardware (meaning the screws) with the RC SCREWZ kit? Is there any advantage to use the stainless steel screws. I personally think it looks pretty awesome. But other then that i am not sure...
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:58 PM   #1603
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Have any of you guys swapped out the hardware (meaning the screws) with the RC SCREWZ kit? Is there any advantage to use the stainless steel screws. I personally think it looks pretty awesome. But other then that i am not sure...
if you were to swap screws I would think it would be for ti screws since they are lighter. But with the T3 your adding so much weight why spend the extra $ on it? I seem to remember stainless hardware was weaker than stock harware.. could be wrong but that's what I remember from offroad back in the day.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:10 PM   #1604
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What kind of metal do the RC SCREWZ kit use????
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:14 PM   #1605
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What kind of metal do the RC SCREWZ kit use????
I think they are stainless. You can get mugen Ti screws that have a similar look but actually weigh less... But like I said, When your adding 30-60 grams of ballast just to make weight seems silly now.
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