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Old 02-27-2010, 02:16 AM   #1576
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hello, i found the screws that secure the wheel hubs a little fragile and it can be stripped easily if not careful , just wondering if possible subsituting these screws from other manufacture ? looking for somthing stronger
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:52 PM   #1577
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Is there any links or threads on how to properly use a set-up station for touring cars? Any help would be great!! Thanks
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Old 02-28-2010, 10:59 PM   #1578
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hey guys, just a quick question..... does a 28tooth pinion with an 84tooth spur sound alright? it leaves me with 5.70. this is using a 10.5.

i like the quality of the car, went together really nice

Thanks
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:24 AM   #1579
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Is there any links or threads on how to properly use a set-up station for touring cars? Any help would be great!! Thanks
I believe the setup guide that comes with the car is very good. Basicly you bolt the plates on. and the main thing is you have to remember that when you change something like camber on the front, it can also affect toe etc.
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:33 AM   #1580
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hey guys, just a quick question..... does a 28tooth pinion with an 84tooth spur sound alright? it leaves me with 5.70. this is using a 10.5.

i like the quality of the car, went together really nice

Thanks
It depends on your track and esc, if your timing profile in your esc adds dynamic timing you should run a numerically higher final drive ratio. I think with a sphere tc i was running between 5-6 fdr (minimal timing advance), Now I run 6.2~ in 17.5 with a tekin RS since it adds so much dynamic timing
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:35 AM   #1581
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hello, i found the screws that secure the wheel hubs a little fragile and it can be stripped easily if not careful , just wondering if possible subsituting these screws from other manufacture ? looking for somthing stronger
they aren't the strongest fasteners, but you shouldn't need to put much torque on them since they are very small, and they are captured by the wheel and just need to be index finger and thumb tight.
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:38 AM   #1582
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Do you think it would be to stiff ???
Yes, if the tire you will run most is rubber. get the rubber car, IMO the foam cars are far to stiff for 98% of the tracks you will run with rubber tires. I run a HIGH bite carpet track and i have yet to run with even the side posts yet.

Cheers,

Patrick
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Old 03-01-2010, 05:37 AM   #1583
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hello, i found the screws that secure the wheel hubs a little fragile and it can be stripped easily if not careful , just wondering if possible subsituting these screws from other manufacture ? looking for somthing stronger
Yeah they really suck. If youve stripped them you are tigheting them way too tight. That screw doesnt need to be that tight, the wheel holds it all together.
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Old 03-01-2010, 05:59 AM   #1584
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Yes, if the tire you will run most is rubber. get the rubber car, IMO the foam cars are far to stiff for 98% of the tracks you will run with rubber tires. I run a HIGH bite carpet track and i have yet to run with even the side posts yet.

Cheers,

Patrick
Interesting the different setups that alot of people are using. Here in Australia, on med grip Asphalt, im using all 3 posts in the car, with my best results so far. I found the car flexes too much without the rear ones in. Especially on power. Im running modified though
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:58 AM   #1585
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It depends on your track and esc, if your timing profile in your esc adds dynamic timing you should run a numerically higher final drive ratio. I think with a sphere tc i was running between 5-6 fdr (minimal timing advance), Now I run 6.2~ in 17.5 with a tekin RS since it adds so much dynamic timing
Since when did sphear tc's have timing advance You mean SPX? Sphear's and Sxx's don't have timing advance. Just straight change in timing. Nothing ever advances or ramps like a Spx- Sxx SS or 199-200-203 Tekin.

I know it's early, but im confused
-Mike
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:28 AM   #1586
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can some one explain what effect these actually have on the t3 or 009 as opposed to not using them or conversely using them on either the front or rear only ?? thanx & appreciate any feedback

graham
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:08 AM   #1587
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Interesting the different setups that alot of people are using. Here in Australia, on med grip Asphalt, im using all 3 posts in the car, with my best results so far. I found the car flexes too much without the rear ones in. Especially on power. Im running modified though
I dunno, I have wanted to test somethings. Like martin hudy's setup from DHI cup is totally different than mine or any of the us drivers I have seen. To each their own, last week someone drove my car and was like wtf. Your car has NO rear grip. I just like a car that turns lol. So I think alot of it depends on driving style and preference. But so far I haven't seen many people using the rear side posts. I plan some more testing this weekend with front post etc. But I found the rear end can be a bit inconsistent and have a tendency to have a bit more unpredictable over steer on power exit.. Just ment that I don't think using the US chassis with rubber tires would be best.
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:11 AM   #1588
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Originally Posted by Owen RaCing View Post
Since when did sphear tc's have timing advance You mean SPX? Sphear's and Sxx's don't have timing advance. Just straight change in timing. Nothing ever advances or ramps like a Spx- Sxx SS or 199-200-203 Tekin.

I know it's early, but im confused
-Mike
The sphere tc was one of the first esc's that I know of to have some built in timing advance. The advance it has is minimal, especially compared to the tekin etc. But it still has some. As the brushless have evolved they have more and more timing built in or able to be adjusted. I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure that's correct.
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:20 AM   #1589
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can some one explain what effect these actually have on the t3 or 009 as opposed to not using them or conversely using them on either the front or rear only ?? thanx & appreciate any feedback

graham
ok, L1 and L2 run in the normal high roll center position (down / inboard), raises the roll center more than the 009 high roll center postion, with a longer link. In the up position it also allows a longer link than the 009.

Alternately in the rear I have been using the L1 on the left rear with the pin in the down inboard position and L2 in the RR in the same way (opposite of the kit directions) and I have found the car has less overall rear grip, but it free's the car up and helps in transitions. One of the other guys tried it and the third corner decided he hated it and needed more rear traction lol.

If your running a T3, it might be a good idea to get some of the 009 roll center pills as an intermediate. Handy on med-low grip tracks.
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:14 AM   #1590
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If your running a T3, it might be a good idea to get some of the 009 roll center pills as an intermediate. Handy on med-low grip tracks.
Hi, can you explain your thinking on this some more as I run T3 now on med grip asphalt. What roll center position do you suggest with these 009 adjusters? And do you mean front and rear? Cheers Benzaah
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