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Old 01-04-2010, 11:18 AM   #46
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Ok. I've got my Team Powers unit in and have been going through all my 17.5 and 13.5 T motors. I've noticed a very consistent set of numbers if I use a 7.4V 5000mah lipo that is fully charged before each test cycle. Once the battery, hooked to unit with no motor, shows 8.2 volts or lower, then I recharge the battery for 5 mins and start testing again. This seems like a hassle but it isnt. I can check about 5 motors before the voltage drops on the battery. Of course, you can continue to check motors against one another even when the voltage drops; just make sure that the voltage range is consistent. There is a slight variance in numbers from a fresh charged pack to the same pack once dropped to 8.3 V, after testing about 5 motors for 1min each. Example, my Putnam Propulsion 17.5 tested with a fresh battery read; V=8.4, Amp or I=1.8, RPM=21400, KV=2579. The same motor and battery tested at 8.3V read I=1.8, RPM=21116, KV=2575. As you can see, not much difference but there is a difference. I have not started testing with load yet but have a small boat prop that I am going to use for load because I agree, there needs to be a load of some sort that is consistent from motor to motor. The above test was done at full power setting but I am now checking the difference at mid power, because the motor stays in that range a lot during racing. What I like about this product is I can use the Epic I-Gauss and swap cans and rotors of the same turn to put together a kick ass motor.....I will let you know the results of testing all my motors and then putting together the best of the parts into one stock motor.
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Old 01-06-2010, 09:06 AM   #47
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for all the guys in the uk there is a full review of the motor checker in next months radio race car... need any help let me know
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Old 01-07-2010, 08:10 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Burst View Post
Ok. I've got my Team Powers unit in and have been going through all my 17.5 and 13.5 T motors. I've noticed a very consistent set of numbers if I use a 7.4V 5000mah lipo that is fully charged before each test cycle. Once the battery, hooked to unit with no motor, shows 8.2 volts or lower, then I recharge the battery for 5 mins and start testing again. This seems like a hassle but it isnt. I can check about 5 motors before the voltage drops on the battery. Of course, you can continue to check motors against one another even when the voltage drops; just make sure that the voltage range is consistent. There is a slight variance in numbers from a fresh charged pack to the same pack once dropped to 8.3 V, after testing about 5 motors for 1min each. Example, my Putnam Propulsion 17.5 tested with a fresh battery read; V=8.4, Amp or I=1.8, RPM=21400, KV=2579. The same motor and battery tested at 8.3V read I=1.8, RPM=21116, KV=2575. As you can see, not much difference but there is a difference. I have not started testing with load yet but have a small boat prop that I am going to use for load because I agree, there needs to be a load of some sort that is consistent from motor to motor. The above test was done at full power setting but I am now checking the difference at mid power, because the motor stays in that range a lot during racing. What I like about this product is I can use the Epic I-Gauss and swap cans and rotors of the same turn to put together a kick ass motor.....I will let you know the results of testing all my motors and then putting together the best of the parts into one stock motor.
Thank you for sharing with your testing result. This device is quite helpful to for the racer to fine tune the motor.
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:08 PM   #49
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anyone have further comment?
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Old 01-14-2010, 02:44 AM   #50
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i find this checker have one more useful function. it can use a fix voltage to run the motor. then we can use a fix 4.2V to run our motor to simulate 1cell performance.
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Old 01-14-2010, 05:57 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engine.tech View Post
i find this checker have one more useful function. it can use a fix voltage to run the motor. then we can use a fix 4.2V to run our motor to simulate 1cell performance.
Please explain how to do it for 4.22.
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Old 01-14-2010, 12:41 PM   #52
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for you guys looking for team power in the uk .. i would like to welcome

Reality Racing
11 Whitefield Road
New Milton
Hampshire
BH25 6DE

01425 627676

to our dealer network, we are looking for more dealers including ireland
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Old 01-16-2010, 06:06 AM   #53
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now also avalible from
sld models
45 eastgate street
stafford

email [email protected]
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Old 01-16-2010, 07:48 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lidebt2 View Post
Please explain how to do it for 4.22.
The below guideline quoted how to use a fix voltage to run the BL motor.

1. After Power up the unit, press and hold the Mode key for around 2 second, then it will enter to the Motor Break-in mode.
2. As in the Motor Break-in mode, the displayed voltage value V will be flashing for setting. This value can be set to different values 2.5V~7.2V through Inc and Dec key.
3. After the voltage value V is set, press the Stop key to change the setting on T value. Pressing the Dec key continuously until T value will become F then press Start key again, the fix voltage break-in process will be started.
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:12 AM   #55
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i know team powers are after a usa dealer so if you are an interested party either contact them of myself and i will pass your info on
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:26 AM   #56
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try the team powers item. good product.
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:26 AM   #57
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any comment?
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:43 PM   #58
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Has anyone used it to tech motors at the track? or would it work?
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:35 PM   #59
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Quote:
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Has anyone used it to tech motors at the track? or would it work?
No. The Team Powers motor checker is just what it says it is. A checker. You can check your sensor board to make sure it is working and you can get RPM, watts and amps. What you need is this meter.

http://www.tequipment.net/BK875B.html

This is the meter that ROAR uses at it's national events to check motors in technical inspections. You also have to check the rotor diameter and magnet thickness by measuring the diameter of the rotor where the magnet is bonded to the rotor shaft. You then compare your readings with the ROAR motor and rotor approval list to see if a motor is legal.
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:00 PM   #60
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So if you're comparing two motors of the same wind, what sort of numbers are you looking for to determine which is the better motor?
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