Bring Back 1/10 Scale Pan Car Poll!!

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  • Re: Sweet
    Originally posted by tomdav
    Remind them to make some more L2's
    Can't make any promises amigo. Just make sure to tell all your racing buddies (both on this and any other forums you are with and at the track) about the US Pan Car Championships!
  • Racing Pro 10
    Raced Pro10 last night. They throw us (me) in with the touring cars. I have been running an RC10L, 230mm 6 cell,stock configuration except reactive front end. I had a great time. I could catch them in the infield if I took tight lines. The Pan car turns quicker, and accelerates faster than the touring cars.

    Before the race I heard "antique", "Old design" and "it won't drive as well because its 2Wd". After the race I heard "Its not fair, he is running a lighter car than us" At the place I race, points for seperate classes are kept so I was not really IN the touring car class. It sure was fun. I qualified 13 out of 29 and I am a terrible driver.

    In the main, I was in last place after a few crashes in the firlst 3 turns. I made my up to 3rd in 4 or 5 laps. I then launched it off a dot and snapped my left front axle. Sure was fun.

    David Root
  • OK pan cars let's bring it on
  • Ok, I've read this entire thread and I for one am stoked about the whole idea BUT...I have zero experience with pan cars !! I'm a huge believer that this hobby needs new blood so with that in mind......How does a pancar rookie get knowledge about these cars?? is there a good source of info about them?? I got confused about the narrow vs. wide , pro10 vs. pro12, 6 cell vs. 4 cell. It made me dizzy trying to follow the conversations you experienced pan car drivers were having !!! Imagine what a total rc rookie would feel like !!!

    So for me and the rest of the pan car newbs...If I want to get involved, what new cars should i be looking at ?? What used cars?? What chassis sizes are available and what are the differences?? If I race stock 27t TC or 19t with 6 cells now, what class pan car should I be looking at ?? Etc, Etc......

    Just so I this whole thread about setting up ONE competition exclusively for pan cars ??? or are you trying to revive the class??? The phrase " the needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few" kept coming to mind while reading all the posts. If this is all for 1 blowout contest, then I can see trying to make a variety of classes and making alot of allowances for all your wishes....BUT...If you're looking toward a long term goal of re-establishing the popularity of pancars, then you have to take into consideration how to make pancars fit the needs of a wide variety of users and , more importantly , supporters of the activity !!! IE: A few people already mentioned that 6cell cars may be to fast for many indoor or smaller outdoor tracks to operate SAFELY!! Also mentioned was the wider cars barely fitting on many tracks to operate SAFELY !!!
    I realize that many drivers don't care about attracting new people to the hobby but if you're looking to re invent the pancar class, shouldn't you be thinking about WHERE you're going to be able to run them !!?? Limiting the choices just because a few existing drivers only care to go as fast as possible just doesn't make sense and makes the supporters of this effort look a bit short sighted !! Absolutely no offense meant.....I'm simply thinking about the bigger picture.
  • Really this is a blowout event, but the idea behind it IS to revive the class. Once companies see that there is still a market in 10th scale (or Pro10) and 12th scale (or Pro12) they will make newer pan cars that cater to the needs of the racers, rookie and veteran alike. Now as to the car questions and stuff, I defer to the REAL pan car experts, which can be found here: (1/10 pan car) (1/12 pan car)
  • OK Evoracer here's the deal about selecting a car:

    It depends on the track you're going to run it:

    1/12th scale indoor track:
    Get a narrow, 200mm, pancar like the Associated RC10L3, the CRC Pantoura or the Corally CCT. Run it either with 4 cells and a 19 turn motor, or 6 cells and a stock motor. This will mean your car won't be too large to get around the track, and it will not too fast too control it.

    1/10th scale small outdoor track.
    If the track is wide enough, get a wide ,235mm car. It will handle better, so it will be easier to learn to drive it. Is the track somewhat narrow, stick to a narrow car. 6cell stock will do nicely here.

    1/8th scale outdoor track.
    Get a wide car. Give the Associated RC10L2 a good look. If you're in the states, that's the most inexpensive way to go. Parts availability is also excellent. You'll need a modified motor for such a large track. If you're new to RC, you can best start with something mild, think in terms of 15turns or so. 6cells will also be the way to go.

    For technical advise, you can best give this thread a look:

    I am working at a website with tips and pictures, but it won't be up soon, since I have limited time.

    I do hope this will help you! At the very least, just have fun running this type of car. It's inexpensive to run and maintain, and very fast. It will also teach you good throttle control. A pancar might be somewhat challenging to drive in the beginning, but it will reward you with good speeds at very low costs. Have fun!
  • I forgot to tell you about what used cars to look for.

    To find out if you like this kind of car anyway, look for a used Associated RC10L or LS. These are the original Asso pan cars. They are both very good cars, and can still be very competitive against newer cars and most parts are still available, at least the parts you're most likelely to break! . These cars won't cost you much, I've seen them go for less then 30 dollars on Ebay. If you get one, watch for play in the pivoting parts, like the front suspension and the T-bar mounting pivots. If they all have a lot of play, you'll have to replace them all, to get some descent handling! $$$$$....
    The difference between the old "L" and the "LS", is the front suspension. The L uses the simple and bomb-proof "chunck of nylon" front end, which is not very adjustable and seems to eat front tires a lot more. It will do nicely for a first ride though. The LS uses the newer Dynamic strut front suspension, which is still found at most Asso-style 1/12th scale cars that are still made.

    If you seriously plan to race competitively, look for a good Associated RC10L2. It's a perfect car. Again, look for wear in the piviting parts!

    There can also be cars found from Trinity and Yokomo, which are somewhat more expensive, and with these, parts availability might be a problem. These are still great cars though.

    Avoid Bolink's cars. These cars are not as good as the aforementioned cars, and parts availability seems to be zero right now.
  • Pro10 good advices, sino i'm PM you soon and i got some new from France and they are ready to run. Sino it's more difficult in UK because they're only want to bring back Pro10 in 200mm.....I discuss so i need to wait..
    Sino it's a good idea for the holland track.
    Oh don't forget to tell me where do you find the carbon?
    Eh have you got a nother Pro10 for me?
    Thank lot
  • bj empty out you mail box bro i cant reply!
  • Ok man, I just did some major housecleaning in my PM box so you should be able to reply now
  • If there's any question about where these cars can run as far as track size is concearned, take a look at SoCal. These wide L2's fit on a vary small track that sometimes has lanes as narrow as 2 1/2 to 3 feet wide. That track is very small. I've seen these guys running those cars on layouts that were made for micros. That's part of what got me intersted in this class. They seem to be fast on just about any layout out there.
  • do any of you guys have any links to a store which stocks one of the wide pan cars?
    these things sound fantastic!
  • Socal R/C

    Cheapest on the net right now if you're looking to buy this car new.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by SpeedyTC3
    Socal R/C

    Cheapest on the net right now if you're looking to buy this car new.
    Hey Speedy, whats the tracking number on that second DVD? I havent received it yet. send it to my PM box
  • gearing?
    i've been reading this thread since it started and it made me want to try 10th pan cars. i have been racing 12th scale for a few years and never really had the desire to try touring (especially since my home track never had a touring turnout until recently) so i thought pro 10 would be kinda fun. so i borrowed a CRC Pantoura and put it together to try it out. i would agree with jkerr that they are very drivable on a fairly small track with kinda narrow lane widths (60x36, 6ft lanes). my only problem is, it seems to be impossible to get a small enough gear on it with 6 cell stock. i got it geared 19 to 125 with about a 2.2 inch tire. thats about a 1.05 rollout, and its still overgeared for that size track. yeah, it is pretty fast, but it still feels overgeared. any bigger of a spur, and it will be on the ground, and my hobby store only carries pinions down to 18, and i dont think i've seen em any smaller than that anyway. only thing i can think of is i'm using the binary motor which seems to like a rediculously low gear to begin with. maybe i should try a paradox?


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