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Old 09-24-2009, 10:59 PM   #1
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Questions?? striped heads.?????????

ok guys i am in need of some help. i have a hb cyclone s rtr and the hex srcew heads keep strriping out on me. if some one could pm me a link to get some really high strength and quatily screw kits for this car it would be great.
thanks mark.t
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Old 09-24-2009, 11:42 PM   #2
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ok guys i am in need of some help. i have a hb cyclone s rtr and the hex srcew heads keep strriping out on me. if some one could pm me a link to get some really high strength and quatily screw kits for this car it would be great.
thanks mark.t
Normal Steel Screw wont strip so easy if the tools u use are in good shape..

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Old 09-25-2009, 12:29 AM   #3
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i think its your hex... or the screw... if the hex is kinda worn out its time to change it..
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Old 09-25-2009, 12:58 AM   #4
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Any idea how to remove a stripped headed screw ?

I have one in my car and it hasnt been remove yet... and i dont have any power tools like an electric hand-drill...
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:07 AM   #5
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I just got a rustler and it has stiped scews on it. Any info for removal would be helpful
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:40 AM   #6
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Well there are 2 method of removing a stripped Countersunk Screw/ Flat head Screw is to find a drill bit similar to the thread size and drill the screw from the top. Take not Do not drill thru. When after drilling to a certain depth the screw will be slightly loose due to lack of holding strength of from the counter sunk. At this point of time reverse the drill direction to anti clock to take out the screw using the drill bit by friction.

The other method is a easier one. Get a dremil cut a slot into the top of the screw just enough to insert a minus screwdriver to unscrew it out.
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:25 AM   #7
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I just got a rustler and it has stiped scews on it. Any info for removal would be helpful
Similar to Official , but it works for me , if you put drill in anticlockwise , press HARD( make sure the chassis is on a solid surface) , and slowly start the drill ...I think the drill must have speed control for this to work , but so far I have not had to drill a screw through.... It happened to me 3 times so far and all times this worked. Luckily screws were at the bottom of chassis so it was easy to press hard on a table, without bending or breaking chassis

I used a 2mm drill ( specific for steel ) and they were M3 screws with a 2mm hex head

Good luck
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:43 AM   #8
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What if a dremel or drill is not available to be used? Any other ways ?
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Old 09-25-2009, 03:10 AM   #9
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Beg, Steal and borrow.
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Old 09-25-2009, 03:16 AM   #10
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What if a dremel or drill is not available to be used? Any other ways ?
You could try hammering a screw driver that is just a fraction bigger than the hex , enough for it to catch on, but its a long shot...

Yep , beg , .....
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Old 09-25-2009, 04:30 AM   #11
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First get better tools. Cheap hex drivers are just that, CHEAP. The L- wrenches that come with kits aren't worth even bothering with. Don't skimp here, you get what you pay for. Just try not to spend too much on the name. Associated's Factory Team driver sets are pretty good and moderately priced. A note: ball end drivers should only be used where necessary, they are more likely to strip screws than standard tip drivers.

Second, there are better scrws out there. I've had good luck with this company's screws. rcscrewz.com
Unfortunately that don't have a kit for your Cyclone, but they do have a lot of choices in the HPI section so there may be one there that'll match your needs. They also sell packs of various sizes so if you know the sizes of the screws you're haveing the most trouble with you can start with those.

Perhaps someone here that's familiar with you vehicle and HPI's offerings could help you out with that part.

And finally a tip: Valve Grinding Compound. Pretty simple stuff, just a mixture of metallic and mica grit in water or grease. It's available at most auto parts stores. However it's best used before the screws are completely stripped out. Just put a dab on the end of your driver and have at it. Works on Philips, Torx, hex, Roberts, you name it.
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:27 AM   #12
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Check TonysScrews. He has a kit for the Cyclone S.
http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.s...&categoryId=60

The RCScrewz kits are ok, but the stainless screws aren't as durable as the screws that TonysScrews sells. He also sells individual screw packs.

If you have a lot of vehicles, or want to split the costs with fellow racers, you can get screws a lot cheaper in bulk from McMaster-Carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/

If you don't have a Dremel, get one. Very useful for RC cars. Although the re-chargable ones are nice, the first time you need to do some heavy duty grinding, you'll wish you had a corded one, so I now carry both.
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Old 09-25-2009, 08:48 AM   #13
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For stripped heads, I have a set of torq's. Get a size slightly bigger than the hole and tap it into the hole. Then slowly remove it. That works for me most of the time. If that does not work(this is where the L hex's from the kits come in handy), clean the L hex and hole thoroughly. Mix up some JB weld and put it in the hole. Stick your hex in there and wait for it to set. That always works for me if I clean it really well.
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:12 AM   #14
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What i do is,i have an old damaged hex driver, i apply superglue on it and immediately put it into the stripped screw hole,give it a second and open it up.
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:35 AM   #15
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I'm gonna try some of these technics and see if I have any luck.

Thanks evryone
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