New to on-road but NOT to r/c racing
09-20-2009, 06:53 PM
#1
New to on-road but NOT to r/c racing
Hello,
I am an avid off-road electric racer. I race everything 2wd mod, 4wd mod, truck mod, 1/8 electric. I usually place high in the B or low in the A(usually high in B). I know what i am doing but i am by no means a pro(usually top 4-5 places in the A at big races i go to). Anyway, I am interested in getting in to on road this winter. 1/12 and rubber TC are the big classes. I am wondering what the best car and class is for someone getting into on road carpet racing. I would like to be able to run lipo. I know that this is a broad question but i am open to all suggestions. also, what type of spec is good for a TC servo, I am assuming anything sub .9 and over 90 oz. is fine? what are the pros and cons of 4wd vs 2wd 1/12 pan cars. Is one a better class to start with?
regards,
christopher
I am an avid off-road electric racer. I race everything 2wd mod, 4wd mod, truck mod, 1/8 electric. I usually place high in the B or low in the A(usually high in B). I know what i am doing but i am by no means a pro(usually top 4-5 places in the A at big races i go to). Anyway, I am interested in getting in to on road this winter. 1/12 and rubber TC are the big classes. I am wondering what the best car and class is for someone getting into on road carpet racing. I would like to be able to run lipo. I know that this is a broad question but i am open to all suggestions. also, what type of spec is good for a TC servo, I am assuming anything sub .9 and over 90 oz. is fine? what are the pros and cons of 4wd vs 2wd 1/12 pan cars. Is one a better class to start with?
regards,
christopher
09-20-2009, 07:23 PM
#2
Hello,
I am an avid off-road electric racer. I race everything 2wd mod, 4wd mod, truck mod, 1/8 electric. I usually place high in the B or low in the A(usually high in B). I know what i am doing but i am by no means a pro(usually top 4-5 places in the A at big races i go to). Anyway, I am interested in getting in to on road this winter. 1/12 and rubber TC are the big classes. I am wondering what the best car and class is for someone getting into on road carpet racing. I would like to be able to run lipo. I know that this is a broad question but i am open to all suggestions. also, what type of spec is good for a TC servo, I am assuming anything sub .9 and over 90 oz. is fine? what are the pros and cons of 4wd vs 2wd 1/12 pan cars. Is one a better class to start with?
regards,
christopher
I am an avid off-road electric racer. I race everything 2wd mod, 4wd mod, truck mod, 1/8 electric. I usually place high in the B or low in the A(usually high in B). I know what i am doing but i am by no means a pro(usually top 4-5 places in the A at big races i go to). Anyway, I am interested in getting in to on road this winter. 1/12 and rubber TC are the big classes. I am wondering what the best car and class is for someone getting into on road carpet racing. I would like to be able to run lipo. I know that this is a broad question but i am open to all suggestions. also, what type of spec is good for a TC servo, I am assuming anything sub .9 and over 90 oz. is fine? what are the pros and cons of 4wd vs 2wd 1/12 pan cars. Is one a better class to start with?
regards,
christopher
I Would start with the indoor track and finding out what is the most popular class they race ..12th is definitely cheaper than TC....
09-20-2009, 07:36 PM
#3
I came from offroad to onroad at the start of this summer, so I know the situation your in. I started with touring car. The TC's have the most in common with offroad cars, whereas pan cars are just a bit...weird. A 4wd TC is similar to a 4wd buggy, so you won't have to learn a ton, especially if you're coming from a belt drive buggy. Most suspension tuning principles carry right over. As far as what the best chassis is for you, well, just do a search as there is a new thread on best touring car everyday. If you're already an avid racer picking out a car isn't that hard, since you know what you can get parts for easily, what is good quality and what isn't.
1/12 would be cheaper than TC, but waaay more foreign, with the foam tires, solid rear axles and all that. Touring car won't be too weird, but it is still quite different from offroad. You'll be able to get adjusted quickly though by talking with the other guys at the track and figuring out tires, belts, bodies, balancing and all that stuff.
1/12 would be cheaper than TC, but waaay more foreign, with the foam tires, solid rear axles and all that. Touring car won't be too weird, but it is still quite different from offroad. You'll be able to get adjusted quickly though by talking with the other guys at the track and figuring out tires, belts, bodies, balancing and all that stuff.
09-20-2009, 08:08 PM
#4
As far as parts, the associated is the easiest to gets parts for here. The xray is also pretty popular I hear too. I buy about 95% of my parts online anyway so local parts support isn't that important but I want a car I can get tuning help etc... with. Since it sounds like pan cars are wierd for am odd road guy I will stay away from that. My only concern with touring car is all the setup. It seems really intimidating. Does one need a set up station and all
that or is one fine with a good eye and an rpm camber gauge? I didn't like the associated b44 very much and I switched to the kyosho zx-5 FS. Does the xray car handle more consistently like the FS or Is the xray car super edgy like the b44 or is it the other way around with the associated vs xray. Is the losi car worth taking a look at or is it not very good and getting old like the xxx-4?
Thanks again,
Christopher
that or is one fine with a good eye and an rpm camber gauge? I didn't like the associated b44 very much and I switched to the kyosho zx-5 FS. Does the xray car handle more consistently like the FS or Is the xray car super edgy like the b44 or is it the other way around with the associated vs xray. Is the losi car worth taking a look at or is it not very good and getting old like the xxx-4?
Thanks again,
Christopher
09-20-2009, 08:32 PM
#5
Talk to the local on-roaders. VTA is fun class, Older 4wd chassis works fine. Get a Tekin RS esc, it will cross over to your 1/10 off-road as well, LIPO is legal. If you end up not liking on-road, not alot invested. As far as setup I use a a sheet of glass, a ride height gauge, a RPM camber gauge, and a Losi droop gauge (metric ruler works). Yeah it's a cheap setup but I do alright, I'm a rookie, B-Mainer but what I've learned in setting up an on-road car carries over to off-roading I understand the dynamic of the car better.. Welcome to on-road and have fun!
09-20-2009, 10:28 PM
#6
Right now I've got an Xray T2'007 and I just picked up a Losi JRX-S Type R a couple weeks ago. My impressions of the two cars thus far (keep in mind I haven't been able to tune the Losi in much yet) is that the Xray is a lot more stable and has more grip than the Losi. I'm not very happy with the belts and pulleys in the Xray though so far, as they keep giving me troubles. No issues with the Losi yet, and they look like they will hold up better. The Xray is a better built car though I think. The Xray is fast, and the Losi has some advantages over the Xray, but I've yet to see the true potential of the Losi. We'll be hitting the carpet really soon here, so that'll switch up the whole game.
Tuning on-road cars isn't so bad. Camber, toe and ride height all do the same things that they did in off-road. The best thing you can do is to download the Xray setup book (it's also included in every Xray car kit) here (it's the 3rd one down from the top): http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ria=0&catName=
Tuning on-road cars isn't so bad. Camber, toe and ride height all do the same things that they did in off-road. The best thing you can do is to download the Xray setup book (it's also included in every Xray car kit) here (it's the 3rd one down from the top): http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ria=0&catName=
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