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Old 01-31-2004, 12:40 PM   #1
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Default Turbo 35 setting for 1400 Nicads?

Hi! I'm looking for a race setup/profile for my Turbo 35 BL for charging Tamiya 1400mAh cells! Anyone care to share?

Just finished building my stock class TT01, can't wait to test it tommorrow

Thanks!

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Old 01-31-2004, 04:15 PM   #2
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Default I have no idea, but...

what are you doing with a T35, 1400's, and a TT01????
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Old 01-31-2004, 08:37 PM   #3
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You can the 1400 5 volt and long lock out pk1 detct v.05
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Old 01-31-2004, 10:01 PM   #4
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Not trying to be argumentative but 5 A (I'm assuming that 5V was a typo) sounds high for 1400mAh batteries. I'm not familiar with the particular cells you are talking about, so I could be wrong, but if they were mine I wouldn't use higher than 3A and .05v dropback if they are 6 cell packs or 3A and .03v dropback if 4 cell packs. Whatever you use keep an eye on the temperature.
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Old 01-31-2004, 11:59 PM   #5
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Default Re: I have no idea, but...

Ok cool. I'll use a 0.05v peak deteck. What about the TurboFlex? That's good for nicads isn't it?

Quote:
Originally posted by Rory
what are you doing with a T35, 1400's, and a TT01????
Erm, Tamiya Championship Series, Stock class?

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Old 02-01-2004, 12:19 AM   #6
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Guys I dont know if you know but peak detect on Nicads is .07.
Plus I would put as MANY amps as runtime allows.I would start at 5.0amps and work my way down.
Most nicad chargers were set at .07.
Les
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Old 02-01-2004, 02:08 AM   #7
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Er... nobody's asked the real question:

Are these 1400mAh Nicads SubC's our AA or AAA's?

If they are SubC's, well, obviously this is nonsense to still race 1400Scr's and have a T35, but anyways... Les is right ('sup, Les?)

If these are Tx/Rx batts, do not go higher than 0.5A.

No matter what, if you can afford a T35, get a real RC car

Paul
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Old 02-01-2004, 06:11 AM   #8
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TexRacer: That's a good idea. I'll try to see which amp charge rate will give me the optimum punch to run time. The TCS series race uses only 5 mins per heat/main, your suggestion is great! I'll also try the 0.07v peak falloff.

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Old 02-01-2004, 06:17 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lonestar
Er... nobody's asked the real question:

Are these 1400mAh Nicads SubC's our AA or AAA's?

If they are SubC's, well, obviously this is nonsense to still race 1400Scr's and have a T35, but anyways... Les is right ('sup, Les?)

If these are Tx/Rx batts, do not go higher than 0.5A.

No matter what, if you can afford a T35, get a real RC car

Paul
Hi!
Yes these are Tamiya 1400mAh nicads. 6 sub Cs in a stick pack actually.

I don't see how it is "nonsense" to race 1400s and own a T35... I mean, although this is a stock class race, the rules only mandate the need to run TL01 or TT01, Silver can motors, fixed gearing and 1400 batteries.

Do you mean for a stock class race I'll need to break out my overnight charger? It IS very slow, you know And what do you consider a "real RC car"? My TT01 is radio controlled, has 4 wheels and moved. Do I need to really break out my twin 414ms and mtx3? Perhaps those are "not-real either"? Hmm I'd better go check on my robi dyno. heheh wonder if its real or not. Probably only CE is real

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Old 02-01-2004, 07:06 AM   #10
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I use to race TCS with 1400 and I remember that we use to run 1400 in GT1 CLASS...Please charge at 5 volt it your limit and 4volts is min. The most important is to discharge the batterys at 20amp and alway dischargw at 20 amp because the 1400 nicads have a momories....The 1400 is a good old bateries so is 2000 and 2400 too
PS if you charge the batteries at 4 volts you will get more run time and 5 volts you get more ave voltages....Frankos
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Old 02-01-2004, 08:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by OVA
Alvin
You can the 1400 5 volt and long lock out pk1 detct v.05
i suppose to charge at 5amps is good enough but pk1 detect at 0.05v is kind of too high...try at 0.03v.Turboflex is to de-cyrstalise the pack...SO if using an old pack then turn the truboflex on at level6 which is good enough for ni-cds.(1min and 9max)

Also try using 2 peak for ni-cds.4 amps first then 6amps.First charge for duration and the second for punch!
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Old 02-01-2004, 08:24 AM   #12
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He's running a silver can motor, so you really don't need to worry about duration. I can hit 10-12 minutes with a 2400 pack and a johnson 540 silver can(charging at 6amps 10mv).
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Old 02-01-2004, 08:47 AM   #13
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can be charge at 8apms if u wanted to but the life span of the battery will be shorten.

my 2 cents thought...
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Old 02-01-2004, 09:03 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zirex
i suppose to charge at 5amps is good enough but pk1 detect at 0.05v is kind of too high...try at 0.03v.Turboflex is to de-cyrstalise the pack...SO if using an old pack then turn the truboflex on at level6 which is good enough for ni-cds.(1min and 9max)

Also try using 2 peak for ni-cds.4 amps first then 6amps.First charge for duration and the second for punch!
Zirex: Thanks! You'd recommend 0.03v for 1400 nicads right? For both peaks do you use 0.03v or do you use different peak values for each charge? Also, do you use the turboflex on new cells?

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Old 02-01-2004, 09:06 AM   #15
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Say fatdoggy, any tips on 540 silver can tuning/break-in? The first time I raced these kinda motors was at thailand where i raced the tamiya asia cup. And needless to say, I had NO idea how to run these puppies! My car was a snail down the straight lol!

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