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Old 07-28-2017, 10:57 AM
  #4291  
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I use 12-14 gauge, for stock and above. The bodies have a lot a room underneath so binding the pod is a non-issue.
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Old 07-28-2017, 11:28 PM
  #4292  
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14AWG for stock up to 10.5 boosted and mod i use 12AWG.

Regards Roy
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Old 07-29-2017, 11:00 AM
  #4293  
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Originally Posted by TOADYY
I use 12-14 gauge, for stock and above. The bodies have a lot a room underneath so binding the pod is a non-issue.
With most MIX-RC bodies, there's plenty of space, but with the Protoform Swift-235, it's much tighter, it seems to me...
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Old 07-29-2017, 12:55 PM
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I am running the Saxo body.
Not much space there either.
For Mod i use the Mix Nissan body.

Regards Roy

Originally Posted by pphaneuf
With most MIX-RC bodies, there's plenty of space, but with the Protoform Swift-235, it's much tighter, it seems to me...
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Old 07-30-2017, 09:45 PM
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Well I can confirm that these cars with a 13.5 on 2S are indeed as fast as mod touring cars in regards to lap times. I'm not half the driver as the guy I was sharing the track with this morning but was able to turn laps within a tenth of his for multiple laps. Granted, he probably would have been a few tenths to half a second faster at the end of the day, but I'm also working with a car that is virtually box stock and I'm driving like it's made from egg shells. LOL No need to bang up a car when there isn't even a class for them here yet. Just want to have some fun with it for a while before having to think about getting parts to fix repairs.
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:23 AM
  #4296  
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I run 14awg wires to the motor with 10.5 boosted 2S and 12awg to the battery. With 13.5 blinky you could use 16awg easily.
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Old 07-31-2017, 03:56 AM
  #4297  
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Originally Posted by Joost K.
I run 14awg wires to the motor with 10.5 boosted 2S and 12awg to the battery. With 13.5 blinky you could use 16awg easily.
Do you stick to 14awg for modified 2S, or do you go 12awg?

Now that I think of it, since voltage drop is current times resistance, with 2S it should be less of a problem to run thinner wire than with 1S, because the current should be lower... 16awg ought to be fine for all of my applications (6.5T blinky or 10.5T boosted in 1S, 13.5T blinky or 17.5T boosted in 2S).
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Old 07-31-2017, 03:57 AM
  #4298  
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Originally Posted by edfmaniac
Well I can confirm that these cars with a 13.5 on 2S are indeed as fast as mod touring cars in regards to lap times.
Nice! On an outdoor track, I'm guessing? Do you run blinky or boosted?
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Old 07-31-2017, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by pphaneuf
Nice! On an outdoor track, I'm guessing? Do you run blinky or boosted?
Blinky.

Yes, outdoor. The newest onroad track in Texas as far as I know and we are hosting this year's Paved Electric Naitionals soon. The track owner is a great announcer and RD, and the surface is dead flat, so we are lucky to have both.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ember-3-a.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mfpkNe1Qxw
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Old 08-06-2017, 11:56 AM
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https://www.facebook.com/Pro10Austra...98320613655671
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Old 08-08-2017, 10:14 AM
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Looking to get into PRO 10 for the winter, they run 13.5 blinky. Not sure where to start. used to run 12th scale, but focused on off road the past five years or so. Looking for a info on a decent chassis, tires, esc/servo, wire gauge and set ups. thanks in advance for the help
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Old 08-08-2017, 10:39 AM
  #4302  
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Originally Posted by strodedawg
Looking to get into PRO 10 for the winter, they run 13.5 blinky. Not sure where to start. used to run 12th scale, but focused on off road the past five years or so. Looking for a info on a decent chassis, tires, esc/servo, wire gauge and set ups. thanks in advance for the help
2S, on carpet, I'm assuming?

Just above your comment, there's some discussion of wire gauge (summary is that for 13.5T blinky 2S, 16 AWG is fine). That should also be fairly easy on the ESC, pretty much any decent ESC would do fine (I run a Reedy Blackbox 410R in my 200mm car, and a Hobbywing XR10 Pro in my 235mm car, for what it's worth).

Indoors, I'm sure a mini servo of the type used in 12th scale would work fine (that's what I have in both my cars, a Futaba 9650 in the 200mm, and in the 235mm one, a Savox, er, I don't remember? ).

The Roche Rapide P10W seems to the easiest chassis to get your hands on, but if your local rules are "up to XXX mm wide" (as the ROAR rules for Pro10 are, and like they are in most places), you might have an even easier time getting some 200mm pan car (like a CRC Gen-X 10 SE, an XRay X10, or any that are also used in WGT), and get a narrow Pro10 body for it (like the MIX-RC Nissan 78221 that I have right now on the 200mm car). The narrow cars lack a bit in high speed cornering, but are more nimble, lower drag (good for stock racing like 13.5T blinky!), and a bit easier to thread through small gaps, which is good indoors!

If you choose to go for a 235mm car, the Protoform Swift-235 body is on the narrower and lower drag end of the spectrum, also good for stock racing.
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Old 08-08-2017, 11:39 AM
  #4303  
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As an FYI pretty much 80% of my Pro10 chassis are up for sale. Mostly 90's era chassis:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ll-got-go.html

Figured the conisuers should.know.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:35 AM
  #4304  
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My latest body shell, a narrow MIX-RC Nissan.

Underneath is a slightly modified XRay X10'16 (Xenon kingpins/balls/springs/steering blocks, X12'16 pod bulkheads), running 10.5T boosted 1S.

Was good for second quickest lap across all classes, behind a far better driver by only 0.071s, so I'd say it's going damn well!
Attached Thumbnails Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-img_20170809_204832.jpg  
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Old 08-10-2017, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by pphaneuf
My latest body shell, a narrow MIX-RC Nissan.

Underneath is a slightly modified XRay X10'16 (Xenon kingpins/balls/springs/steering blocks, X12'16 pod bulkheads), running 10.5T boosted 1S.

Was good for second quickest lap across all classes, behind a far better driver by only 0.071s, so I'd say it's going damn well!
Was that on carpet? If so, it's an excellent achievement given the narrow body!
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