Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion
#1366
Tech Regular
Hi Hugo,
It is simplicity of the kingpin that makes most drivers go to the kingpin design. In theory front suspension with shock etc are better but when racing it really doesn't matter that much and the simplicity and ease of adjustments/maintenance etc of the kingpin makes it for many drivers an easy choice. Same for the back.
Experimenting is part of the hobby and it is fun to design something and show people your skills and idea's so please continue with the design and show the results .
It is simplicity of the kingpin that makes most drivers go to the kingpin design. In theory front suspension with shock etc are better but when racing it really doesn't matter that much and the simplicity and ease of adjustments/maintenance etc of the kingpin makes it for many drivers an easy choice. Same for the back.
Experimenting is part of the hobby and it is fun to design something and show people your skills and idea's so please continue with the design and show the results .
Another idea in the mind, please comment: I see many people concerned with ride height, and rightfully so, and all these cars use high downforce bodies and wings. So, ride height changes at speed. Ride height is high in the slow corners, where you want the CG to be low. Ride height is low on the fast straight because of the down force, but you don't need it there. Hmmm... Why not mount the body to the rear pod and the kingpins (some engineering required there...) so the downforce goes directly to the wheels, and the chassis can stay low to the ground all the time?
Just an idea. Please shoot! One thing that comes to mind is unsprung weight. Has anyone tried?
Cheers,
Hugo
#1367
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
Thanks for the reply. I'll stick with kingpin suspension for a start, keeping it indeed simple. I fear my rear suspension idea might die early, too, as I held some pro-10 cars in my hands yesterday and felt the torsional spring force and dampening, or rather the lack there-off. That also explanes how you can get away with simple kingpin suspension in the front, you hardly need anything there...
Another idea in the mind, please comment: I see many people concerned with ride height, and rightfully so, and all these cars use high downforce bodies and wings. So, ride height changes at speed. Ride height is high in the slow corners, where you want the CG to be low. Ride height is low on the fast straight because of the down force, but you don't need it there. Hmmm... Why not mount the body to the rear pod and the kingpins (some engineering required there...) so the downforce goes directly to the wheels, and the chassis can stay low to the ground all the time?
Just an idea. Please shoot! One thing that comes to mind is unsprung weight. Has anyone tried?
Cheers,
Hugo
Another idea in the mind, please comment: I see many people concerned with ride height, and rightfully so, and all these cars use high downforce bodies and wings. So, ride height changes at speed. Ride height is high in the slow corners, where you want the CG to be low. Ride height is low on the fast straight because of the down force, but you don't need it there. Hmmm... Why not mount the body to the rear pod and the kingpins (some engineering required there...) so the downforce goes directly to the wheels, and the chassis can stay low to the ground all the time?
Just an idea. Please shoot! One thing that comes to mind is unsprung weight. Has anyone tried?
Cheers,
Hugo
#1368
Yeah it is already being used. The pic is an example how it is done at the back.
Last edited by 2wdrive; 05-05-2014 at 05:03 AM.
#1369
#1370
Tech Initiate
#1371
the screws are in the front but aren't vissible in the picture. The two screwholes in the middle of the t-bar are not used. They were just for testing something wich didn't work out so I removed the screws. Depending on the grip or layout of the track I used T-bar screws or not.
#1372
Tech Initiate
the screws are in the front but aren't vissible in the picture. The two screwholes in the middle of the t-bar are not used. They were just for testing something wich didn't work out so I removed the screws. Depending on the grip or layout of the track I used T-bar screws or not.
Do you change the T-bar sometimes ?
Do you have different tickness ?
Last edited by Silverprout; 05-05-2014 at 10:13 AM. Reason: mistakes
#1374
I change t-bars when there is a stress mark in the t-bar. Or at the beginning of the year.
I played around with different thickness t-bars. With tweak screws you can really see and feel the difference. (like changing to a soft side spring). But to be honest I rarely use the thin t-bars, only when removing the tweek scews don't work.
I played around with different thickness t-bars. With tweak screws you can really see and feel the difference. (like changing to a soft side spring). But to be honest I rarely use the thin t-bars, only when removing the tweek scews don't work.
#1375
Tech Initiate
I change t-bars when there is a stress mark in the t-bar. Or at the beginning of the year.
I played around with different thickness t-bars. With tweak screws you can really see and feel the difference. (like changing to a soft side spring). But to be honest I rarely use the thin t-bars, only when removing the tweek scews don't work.
I played around with different thickness t-bars. With tweak screws you can really see and feel the difference. (like changing to a soft side spring). But to be honest I rarely use the thin t-bars, only when removing the tweek scews don't work.
Carbon is lighter and more nervous.
#1376
Can you rephrase the question? I am not sure what you are trying to ask or tell.
#1377
I have always wanted to race a 235mm wide pan car. Are there any new 235mm wide kits available to buy?
#1378
There are several brands with a 235mm kit out of the box.
Corally 10sl , Hatzenbach and vip performance.
Also 200mm wgt cara can be made 235mm like the serpent and xray.
Corally 10sl , Hatzenbach and vip performance.
Also 200mm wgt cara can be made 235mm like the serpent and xray.
#1379
Tech Initiate