HugoW

Thanks for the reply. I'll stick with kingpin suspension for a start, keeping it indeed simple. I fear my rear suspension idea might die early, too, as I held some pro-10 cars in my hands yesterday and felt the torsional spring force and dampening, or rather the lack there-off. That also explanes how you can get away with simple kingpin suspension in the front, you hardly need anything there...

Another idea in the mind, please comment: I see many people concerned with ride height, and rightfully so, and all these cars use high downforce bodies and wings. So, ride height changes at speed. Ride height is high in the slow corners, where you want the CG to be low. Ride height is low on the fast straight because of the down force, but you don't need it there. Hmmm... Why not mount the body to the rear pod and the kingpins (some engineering required there...) so the downforce goes directly to the wheels, and the chassis can stay low to the ground all the time?

Just an idea. Please shoot! One thing that comes to mind is unsprung weight. Has anyone tried?

Cheers,

Hugo

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

Yes, it works well. But you'll need to arrange some way to feed only the down force into the rear pod, and take out the lateral forces with a linkage or locating pin to the main chassis. Otherwise the handling will get weird.

2wdrive

Yeah it is already being used. The pic is an example how it is done at the back.

2wdrive

organic is correct, i bought it from PRC but it is not availlable anymore.

Silverprout

Yes, you're right.
but i see no screws on the sides of this Tbar, so the rear pod is totally free of rotation ?

2wdrive

the screws are in the front but aren't vissible in the picture. The two screwholes in the middle of the t-bar are not used. They were just for testing something wich didn't work out so I removed the screws. Depending on the grip or layout of the track I used T-bar screws or not.

Silverprout

Do you change the T-bar sometimes ?
Do you have different tickness ?

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Also running a T-bar car but with side dampers instead of damper tubes.
Not changing T-bars at all.
Just play with springs.

Regards Roy

2wdrive

I change t-bars when there is a stress mark in the t-bar. Or at the beginning of the year.

I played around with different thickness t-bars. With tweak screws you can really see and feel the difference. (like changing to a soft side spring). But to be honest I rarely use the thin t-bars, only when removing the tweek scews don't work.

Silverprout

Why epoxy ?
Carbon is lighter and more nervous.

2wdrive

Can you rephrase the question? I am not sure what you are trying to ask or tell.

Abendor79

I have always wanted to race a 235mm wide pan car. Are there any new 235mm wide kits available to buy?

spacendeman

There are several brands with a 235mm kit out of the box.
Corally 10sl , Hatzenbach and vip performance.
Also 200mm wgt cara can be made 235mm like the serpent and xray.

Silverprout

We could use carbon instead of epoxy to improve the T-BAR ?

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

The fiberglass/epoxy will flex much more than carbon before breaking. Since the T-bar is supposed to flex, fiberglass is the better material.

Spring steel is sometimes also used.