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Old 09-06-2009, 11:00 AM   #16
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hey thanks for the all the information. Ya I am definately rookie status. still learning how to get around the track without banging some walls. Definately not racing all qualifiers. My thought was it might be easier to learn on a nicer set up but it doesn't sound like I would even appreciate the money spent. Thanks for the advice and I'll keep working on the fingers end of the equation.
The class you race in might be important too. A shaft drive car may be tricky to set up with a lot of power. If you get discouraged, try a low budget belt car like a bog stock TA05 kit. They are amazingly good (and forgiving) for the money.
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Old 09-06-2009, 07:29 PM   #17
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well, I'm gonna have to disagree with most of the above posts, heres a long story, I started with a Yokomo Yr4 (I think thats what is was) I was like 8-10 laps behind the good drivers and wasn't getting any better, i bought a Kawada SV-10 and picked up two laps right out of the box and progressed rather nicely after that, so chassis does matter even when learning, I don't know this for a fact, but I have heard the TC4 wasn't as good as the TC3 but was still a good car but had issues. I would suggest looking at what the locals are driving and get one of those, you will have people to help you and and you will have the parts you need, I say this as the only person that runs a Mi4 at my track. The Mi4 is a awesome car, and with its release you may be able to pick up a Mi3 pretty cheap (i sold one for 150 with some parts included). The fact that you were thinking of upgrading probably means its a good idea. pretty much any of todays cars would serve you better.
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Old 09-06-2009, 08:02 PM   #18
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I still have the YR4 (M2J Pro) and it's still very competitive. It's a bit heavy (about 1600gr ready to race with Nimh, so should be underweight with Lipo) but it is a very good car when properly set up. Don't lose patience and you will see results. Being 8-10 laps down means there was something really wrong either with the car or your driving. I moved up from my YR4 to a Yokomo SD SSG and I still race that car today alongside my TA05R/Avid/Kawada Sigma2 and they all score equally fast times. This convinced me that any car can be set up to be fast, but no car is going to be better than you are.
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Old 09-06-2009, 08:58 PM   #19
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Maybe I should have added that was 9-10 years ago.

And I've been doing just fine lately.

to say a chassis can't/won't make you faster is just wrong.
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:17 PM   #20
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The nice thing about the TC4 is that it's competitive at a club level without the FT hop-ups. One guy in a local club ran a tub chassis TC4 in mod and was in the top 5 in every race in our WCICS series.

IMO, I think now with the power of brushless motors and the weight of li-po batteries that a shaft drive car would only hurt your times.

Also +1 to skypilot on the fact that a new car can improve your times. First run with my Mi4 I was on pace with or faster then my XRay, which I had for 2 years.
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:23 PM   #21
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Maybe I should have added that was 9-10 years ago.

And I've been doing just fine lately.

to say a chassis can't/won't make you faster is just wrong.
Perhaps true. But if you are still hitting the wall five-ten times a night (or more), you're simply going to be replacing (perhaps more expensive) parts on the sideline. Once you are able to have clean race nights and know about tuning your car (and have tuned it quite a bit), then yes, an upgrade may very well help you progress even more and become more competitive.

But until then, I would hate to see a new guy spend more money than he really needs to. After all, this hobby is expensive enough . And I think too many drivers simply try to "buy more speed" rather than learning the skills that are required to go fast (not saying that's the case here, I just don't want to see somebody fall into that trap).
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:29 PM   #22
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While the fingers are the most important part of the equation, a newer car can also help. At one time I had both a RTR TC4 and a tub chassis Cyclone. Both were box stock set ups with 19 turn motors in them. The Cyclone felt MUCH more planted and carried a ton more corner speed then the TC4. My suggestion would be to get a tub chassis Cyclone and as your skill set improves you can upgrade it to a full race spec Cyclone. That is one thing that most other cars don't offer is a clear upgrade path like the Cyclone. You could literally just slap a carbon fiber upper and lower deck on a tub chassis Cyclone and be 80% of the way to a full race spec model, not to mention that the Cyclone is one heck of a car.
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:37 PM   #23
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Perhaps true. But if you are still hitting the wall five-ten times a night (or more), you're simply going to be replacing (perhaps more expensive) parts on the sideline. Once you are able to have clean race nights and know about tuning your car (and have tuned it quite a bit), then yes, an upgrade may very well help you progress even more and become more competitive.
First need a car that can be tuned and you notice a difference. Most competition TC's on the market have this advantage over the older cars.
Schumacher, Hot Bodies, XRay, Corally, Associated TC5..
On all of those cars changes are noticeable.
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:50 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
Maybe I should have added that was 9-10 years ago.

And I've been doing just fine lately.

to say a chassis can't/won't make you faster is just wrong.
Sure, not trying to have a go at you.

But the discussion about chassies crops up every now and then and people tend to think a new car will make them faster. What I see though is people wasting their cash on the newest and greatest (and I am guilty as well) without having extracted the full potential of their current car. Put it this way. Michael Schumacher is going to be quick in any given car, not just his F1 racer.

If you think you're at that point (where you have taken your current car as far as it can go) or want to just get a new car or whatever, then nobody is going to stop you, after all, it's your cash.

See below (or above), some people agree with that view.

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Originally Posted by jolson88 View Post
Perhaps true. But if you are still hitting the wall five-ten times a night (or more), you're simply going to be replacing (perhaps more expensive) parts on the sideline. Once you are able to have clean race nights and know about tuning your car (and have tuned it quite a bit), then yes, an upgrade may very well help you progress even more and become more competitive.

But until then, I would hate to see a new guy spend more money than he really needs to. After all, this hobby is expensive enough . And I think too many drivers simply try to "buy more speed" rather than learning the skills that are required to go fast (not saying that's the case here, I just don't want to see somebody fall into that trap).
Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyFist View Post
While the fingers are the most important part of the equation, a newer car can also help. At one time I had both a RTR TC4 and a tub chassis Cyclone. Both were box stock set ups with 19 turn motors in them. The Cyclone felt MUCH more planted and carried a ton more corner speed then the TC4. My suggestion would be to get a tub chassis Cyclone and as your skill set improves you can upgrade it to a full race spec Cyclone. That is one thing that most other cars don't offer is a clear upgrade path like the Cyclone. You could literally just slap a carbon fiber upper and lower deck on a tub chassis Cyclone and be 80% of the way to a full race spec model, not to mention that the Cyclone is one heck of a car.
This is the reason I recommended the TA05 (if you get an "R" even better and still don't need to break the bank). The upgrades are endless and where you take it it's up to you. I am not a Tamiya fan, and have cars I like a lot more than that, but this is pretty much like a sort of yardstick for entry level cars (partly because of their good worldwide availability) and a good one at that.
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Old 09-07-2009, 12:58 AM   #25
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This is the reason I recommended the TA05 (if you get an "R" even better and still don't need to break the bank). The upgrades are endless and where you take it it's up to you. I am not a Tamiya fan, and have cars I like a lot more than that, but this is pretty much like a sort of yardstick for entry level cars (partly because of their good worldwide availability) and a good one at that.
This is the exact advice I got from locals in my area. There are several people who run this chassis where I plan on running. Some people's TA-05s have lasted them into SuperStock/Mod with all the hop-ups/upgrades that are available. So, I picked up a used TA-05 for cheap (with lots of spare parts), and plan on sticking with it for quite a while.

And, truth be told, my limited onroad experience so far has been a lot more pleasant than my offroad experience. It's nice to know that I'm in a chassis that will growth with me for a while. Granted, I will eventually need to upgrade, but I think that is a ways into the future.
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:44 AM   #26
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You got that advice because realistically speaking that's the best combination of price/quality/availability/part support/upgrade possibilities in the future.

As I said, I am not a Tamiya fan and I wish there was more diversity but we live in the real world and it looks like this is the situation we are dealt. Until another company looks at grassroots R/C and come up with something competitive at this level, we don't have any other option to advise newcomers/beginners.
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:34 AM   #27
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This is the exact advice I got from locals in my area. There are several people who run this chassis where I plan on running. Some people's TA-05s have lasted them into SuperStock/Mod with all the hop-ups/upgrades that are available. So, I picked up a used TA-05 for cheap (with lots of spare parts), and plan on sticking with it for quite a while.

And, truth be told, my limited onroad experience so far has been a lot more pleasant than my offroad experience. It's nice to know that I'm in a chassis that will growth with me for a while. Granted, I will eventually need to upgrade, but I think that is a ways into the future.
the TA05 is a great chassis to learn and gain experience on, almost all of the guys where you race had one at one time or another, but for a different reason, most of them came of racing at SIR and SIR was a Tamiya track. and while one or two have ran the car in mod, it was only because they were between "real" chassis' and your right if your just smacking boards and pipes then it really doesn't matter what you drive, but driving a better chassis will help you stay off those boards IMO, another short story, after years with the yokomo BD and BDM I went from 12.7 fast lap to 12.4 aveage lap with the Mi3,
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