Bobinmt

iTrader: (2)

We had our weekly race last night and I thought the car overall worked pretty good. I do still feel like I need a little less steering overall as the rear grip seems to be lacking some especialy from the middle of the run on. I'm using Niftech tire compound with a full treatment on the rears at least 10 minutes prior to the run and about 1/8" of treatment on the front just prior to the run. For the main I dropped down to 5000 in the tubes and .5 degree negative camber and I thought it was a touch better but still not the perfect balance. After the main I figured I should have tried .50 front springs.

How do you think the stiffer front springs will effect the handling?

Thanks for all the help guys..

CDW

The car will not transfer as much weight, therefore, there should be less steering. Especially initial (corner entry).

Hope this helps,
CD

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

I like the .45mm front springs. It seems to work very well on out short tight track.

The issue I seem to be fighting is the tire choice for our indoor carpet track. The carpet is on concrete floor and the temp. seems to play a big part in how the car reacts in the corners. The last race it was a 13 deg. F outside and I could not get the Pink rears to work. I should have went with the low grays but it was not so.

Jeremy Otis

Yep, black front tires work very well with single cell and Jack the Gripper these days. Run you're chassis level and if you are still having issues try running blue side springs.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

.50 front springs would help. I personally never had any luck with Niftech sauce. Is it the only option at your track? If not Epic Sticky Fingers sauce might solve your whole problem.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Something that I noticed this year. We started a 1/16 slash race on our carpet with jumps that are put in for their race and then removed for the 1/12 pan car.

It appears that the spec rubber tires on the slash is taking up some of the old and gummy traction compound from the track that was causing us to have inconsistent traction all of last year,

Since they have been running the track has been awesome and very controllable.


Just FYI

whynot

iTrader: (18)

Hey Guys I just put the 5 degree red aluminum upper arm mounts on my xl and they are shorter than the stock ones and when I put the top on and tighten it down the there is alot of forward /backward movement.

Mark506

iTrader: (42)

Were can I get these "Dual Pin" braces found on Hupo's car?

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

Re: Aluminum caster blocks...

I had that happen when I tried the aluminum caster blocks - I added a few more shims to each side to resolve the problem...

ByteStream

iTrader: (2)

On Hupo's car,

I assume that is a SSX SS, what is that just to the right of the servo? Shouldn't need a booster/pack.

Mark506

iTrader: (42)

It's a transponder. One of those MRT or whatever ones there called.

madhammer

iTrader: (32)

Byte

That is a MRT transponder

I get all my crc stuff direct they are great and have fast shipping

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

Mark they are 3363 for short-arm, and 3364 for long-arm. You'd need two of each to do what Hupo did.

VRacing

Hey Bob,

Catch me at the track if you want. Figured I'd throw down here since the discussion's already going.

Looks like these guys have you covered. After watching your car on the track, Front Springs & Tire Combo will get you closer to what you want.

The softer .45mm spring will make the car want to "square up" to hard and begins to over-work the rear as the run goes on. By the end, they just can't keep up and the car goes loose. The .50mm spring will definetly smooth the car out at entry and mid-corner which will let you carry more speed on exit. Make sure you balance out the chassis changes and you'll see your handling come around. (Probably want to match the side spring/damper fluid ((7000wt or 10,000wt on our track)) - shock spring/oil - front springs) One end stiff, the other soft, will generally not be smooth for 8 minutes.

Tires - didn't realize you were using the gray fronts. They would typically fit a very high bite track (ours is med/high or a little above). You may see them on some team driver setup sheets as they mellow out super tacky conditions. On a club level track, they just aren't consistent through the run. Make sure and round off the sidewall on the tire truer. Square sidewall profiles will make the handling a bit edgy as well. Grays front or rear have caused much anxiety over the years. Blacks and Yello-Grays are good on our track. Once your chassis settings are in better balance you can use a variety of tire combos. I've had fronts- black, magenta, lilac, dbl pink and rears - white, yellow, double pink, magenta.

Anyway, your car isn't to far off. Keep good notes so your setup doesn't end up someplace that's hard to get back from. I've tried that, it's a long road. I'd recommend going back to your standard setup, throwing in the .50mm front springs, then working through tire combos first. My 2 cents anyway. See you at the track Tuesday.

Aaron

asfastasu

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know if the top plate from the brushless offset pod for the gen-xl is the same one that comes in the kit from the Gen-X10 or Battle-axe?