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Old 09-26-2011, 09:35 PM   #1156
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Hey guys, I searched gearing and I didn't come up with much.

I have my first on-road race coming up with my shiny new Gen-XL.

I'm going to be running 13.5 boosted and 17.5 blinky. It's a carpet track with a 100ft straight.

Any suggestions on where to start gearing with those motors? Spur and Pinion? Forgive my inexperience, I'm an off-road guy.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:17 AM   #1157
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Originally Posted by Weazsel View Post
Hey guys, I searched gearing and I didn't come up with much.

I have my first on-road race coming up with my shiny new Gen-XL.

I'm going to be running 13.5 boosted and 17.5 blinky. It's a carpet track with a 100ft straight.

Any suggestions on where to start gearing with those motors? Spur and Pinion? Forgive my inexperience, I'm an off-road guy.
Hi mate, with regards to gearing, it's not so much to do with just a spur and pinion, you have to take into account the diameter of the tyres as well.

So, gearing is measured at milimeter per revolution (mmpr).

The formula for this is tyre diamter (in mm) multiplied by 3.14 divided by number of teeth on the spurgear mulitiplied by the number of teeth on the pinion.

Not too sure what the gearing would be with those motors, but certainly with a 3.5 brushless, you would be looking at around 28-30mmpr and recently we have been running 10.5 blinky at around 62.5mmpr.

Hope that all makes sense, cheers!
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:46 AM   #1158
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi mate, with regards to gearing, it's not so much to do with just a spur and pinion, you have to take into account the diameter of the tyres as well.

So, gearing is measured at milimeter per revolution (mmpr).

The formula for this is tyre diamter (in mm) multiplied by 3.14 divided by number of teeth on the spurgear mulitiplied by the number of teeth on the pinion.

Not too sure what the gearing would be with those motors, but certainly with a 3.5 brushless, you would be looking at around 28-30mmpr and recently we have been running 10.5 blinky at around 62.5mmpr.

Hope that all makes sense, cheers!
Thanks, it does make sense. For an example though, 43mm tire diam. x 3.14 / teeth on spur x teeth on pinion =mmpr right?

So I just plug in spurs and pinions until it equals the correct mmpr for that setup? I get the formula, just not sure how to use it to figure out the correct gearing.

Is there a chart or list somewhere with all the different tire diameters?
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:55 AM   #1159
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Click here for GEAR CHART

Use that link, lets you calculate roll out easily, and makes a gear chart adjusted for tire wear as well.
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:02 PM   #1160
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Originally Posted by Weazsel View Post
Thanks, it does make sense. For an example though, 43mm tire diam. x 3.14 / teeth on spur x teeth on pinion =mmpr right?

So I just plug in spurs and pinions until it equals the correct mmpr for that setup? I get the formula, just not sure how to use it to figure out the correct gearing.

Is there a chart or list somewhere with all the different tire diameters?
Best to ask at your club what people are using, then measure you tyres and use the chart in the link above this post to get the actual gearing you require.

The only problem though, is getting the correct size spur gear in the first place. The reason I mention that, is that I usually use a 88t spur gear, and with the quite small diameter tyres which will mean using quite a large pinion (between 40 and 42) to get the correct overall gearing I need for 10.5 blinky.

The 'hot ticket' at the moment is to try and get the motor as close to the centre pivot as you can which means using a bigger spur, and then a bigger pinion to get the gearing the same as it was with the smaller spur (hope that makes sense mate!)

All makes to the fun of racing 12th cars!!

Cheers.
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:09 PM   #1161
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hey all...does anyone know what size the tie rods are on the gen-xl?? i wanna replace the ones I have on my car now (too much of a PITA to adjust) and want something that I actually have a turnbuckle wrench for..

what kind are most of you all using?
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:30 PM   #1162
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Hey what length sensor wire is everyone running? TQ wire or CRC brand?
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:04 AM   #1163
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
Click here for GEAR CHART

Use that link, lets you calculate roll out easily, and makes a gear chart adjusted for tire wear as well.
I like gearchart. One thing gearchart doesn't do is tooth count. Tooth count, meaning the total number of spur and pinion teeth added together. My count usually ends up in the 120 to 135 range depending on the chassis I'm working on. That way if I know the target rollout, I can calculate a gearchart to use to get back to the spur and pinion that puts me in the tooth count range. Too high of a count and you run out of space, too low and the gears don't touch.
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:21 AM   #1164
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I assembled my XL last night and one thing that doesn't impress me is the front upright. The right side went together really easy, the left side threads were too mashed up and the pivot ball retainer cant thread in upright. Any one else have the same issue? Any ideas?
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:36 AM   #1165
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I assembled my XL last night and one thing that doesn't impress me is the front upright. The right side went together really easy, the left side threads were too mashed up and the pivot ball retainer cant thread in upright. Any one else have the same issue? Any ideas?
Some of them are a bit difficult to assemble.

Try a light countersink on the stearing block threads to see if that helps.
Once that is assembled I like to run the assembly with a dremel at a low speed. I grab the pivot ball thread with the dremel and hold the stearing block. It will free it right up Make sure you use low speed and apply some lubricant. I use 30K 1/8 diff lube. Once the prcedure is done, take apart, clean everything out and reassemble. I reapply a drop of 30K diff fluid on the pivot ball during assembly.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:00 AM   #1166
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Originally Posted by sg1 View Post
Some of them are a bit difficult to assemble.

Try a light countersink on the stearing block threads to see if that helps.
Once that is assembled I like to run the assembly with a dremel at a low speed. I grab the pivot ball thread with the dremel and hold the stearing block. It will free it right up Make sure you use low speed and apply some lubricant. I use 30K 1/8 diff lube. Once the prcedure is done, take apart, clean everything out and reassemble. I reapply a drop of 30K diff fluid on the pivot ball during assembly.

Hope this helps.
The problem is the left side upright only had maybe 2-3 threads and the first thread was completely laid over out of the box, I tried fixing it with a knife but it was to far gone . The right side had perfect threads and it went together as designed. Guess I will have to order a upright and new pivot ball cup.
Also the side damper tube oil is in a bottle but the shock oil is in a needle oiler? Odd
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:09 AM   #1167
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Originally Posted by Craig View Post
The problem is the left side upright only had maybe 2-3 threads and the first thread was completely laid over out of the box, I tried fixing it with a knife but it was to far gone . The right side had perfect threads and it went together as designed. Guess I will have to order a upright and new pivot ball cup.
Also the side damper tube oil is in a bottle but the shock oil is in a needle oiler? Odd
Unless they've changed it don't use the tube lube that comes with the kit it's only like 1000wt. You need 20K or 30K for the dampener tubes.
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:00 AM   #1168
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Originally Posted by Craig View Post
The problem is the left side upright only had maybe 2-3 threads and the first thread was completely laid over out of the box, I tried fixing it with a knife but it was to far gone . The right side had perfect threads and it went together as designed. Guess I will have to order a upright and new pivot ball cup.
Also the side damper tube oil is in a bottle but the shock oil is in a needle oiler? Odd
If the threads are that bad just give CRC a call for a replacement, I'm sure John can help you out.
I haven't had them that bad, usually just a light countersink to start things would do it.
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Old 09-28-2011, 01:42 PM   #1169
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Is it a good idea to put some grease between the front caster block and the A-arm pin? I was assembling mine and it seemed that without a little Associated Green Slime the retainer plate had to be way too loose to allow the arm free movement.

Also, does CRC make a dedicated thrust bearing for their diff or is the Slapmaster unit the part to use?
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Old 09-28-2011, 01:56 PM   #1170
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Is it a good idea to put some grease between the front caster block and the A-arm pin? I was assembling mine and it seemed that without a little Associated Green Slime the retainer plate had to be way too loose to allow the arm free movement.

Also, does CRC make a dedicated thrust bearing for their diff or is the Slapmaster unit the part to use?
I usually just ream out the arm with a small drill bit. Putting oil there will just add extra dampening.

No CRC only has a thrust washer. Slapmaster is the only one that I have seen.
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