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Old 04-10-2011, 11:21 AM   #1006
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Just letting some know that I am selling or trading my CRC Gen XL - Xerun 120a 1s - Duo 3 - 1s Lipo - Extras
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:07 PM   #1007
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What center spring (encore) currently comes with the car?
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:02 PM   #1008
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The car comes with the old school Gold spring... at least mine did. That is pretty equivalent to the CRC encore Red spring. Most guys run White or red from the encore springs, white being a hair softer. I tend to prefer the Red spring
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:37 PM   #1009
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My XL kit is only about 2-3 months old. It came with a red center spring for the Encore shock.

Bill
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:19 PM   #1010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The car comes with the old school Gold spring... at least mine did. That is pretty equivalent to the CRC encore Red spring. Most guys run White or red from the encore springs, white being a hair softer. I tend to prefer the Red spring
Agreed Korey!! If the track has med to high bite and has no major bumps, the red spring is usually the best starting point. It's where I generally start on all tracks. The white spring is good on bumpy or low bite tracks where you need more forward bite out of the corners.
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:54 AM   #1011
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ttt
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:07 AM   #1012
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Agreed Korey!! If the track has med to high bite and has no major bumps, the red spring is usually the best starting point. It's where I generally start on all tracks. The white spring is good on bumpy or low bite tracks where you need more forward bite out of the corners.
At what point do you run the associated red spring? I see a couple fast guys running them at big races. Thanks
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:21 PM   #1013
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The associated red spring is like the CRC green. It's pretty firm, and now that we are running cars that are much lighter in weight, I don't usually find that its needed. I know some run the green though. It gives more initial turn in, and is beneficial on smoother tracks.

-Korey
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:33 PM   #1014
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TTT

I just built 2 diffs with CRC's new 16 ball 3/32" ball spurs. I just used the 1.99 losi steel balls and AE 6636 lube. I was amazed at how smooth the diffs came out. Completly locked, but both still diff out against the resistance of a 17.5 motor. I have had diffs this smooth before, but never without some extra effort. These two came out perfect with no diff sanding, expensive parts, or prep otherwise. Just thought I would share my experience to get this thing up top.
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Old 04-23-2011, 06:36 PM   #1015
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TTT

I just built 2 diffs with CRC's new 16 ball 3/32" ball spurs. I just used the 1.99 losi steel balls and AE 6636 lube. I was amazed at how smooth the diffs came out. Completly locked, but both still diff out against the resistance of a 17.5 motor. I have had diffs this smooth before, but never without some extra effort. These two came out perfect with no diff sanding, expensive parts, or prep otherwise. Just thought I would share my experience to get this thing up top.
Ditto for both WGT and 12th. 16 balls is great!

Will rtry ceramics when I get around to it.
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:20 PM   #1016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The associated red spring is like the CRC green. It's pretty firm, and now that we are running cars that are much lighter in weight, I don't usually find that its needed. I know some run the green though. It gives more initial turn in, and is beneficial on smoother tracks.

-Korey
I'm going to have to disagree with your statement. In my experiance a stiffer center spring takes away initial turn in but gains stearing on exit a softer center spring gains turn in but looses stearing on exit. That's just from my findings. To each his own though.
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:32 AM   #1017
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Just depends on the track conditions. I found the opposite effect at Timezone (carpet nationals) vs my home track .

-Korey
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:31 PM   #1018
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Does everyone use the ride height adjusters that come with the kit? Having to remove not just the 4 main screws, but also the 4 screws holding the arm mounts, seems like more hassle than it should be.

I was thinking using the 3mm adjuster, then 4x10x1mm washers underneath it, instead of ever using the 4/5mm adjusters. Anyone see a possible problem with doing it this way?
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:45 PM   #1019
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That will work. I never remove the 3 mm spacer and just use the yellow, white and orange CRC RH shims to lower my RH when needed. The 3,4,5 shims are meant to give a base RH, but not intended to be swapped out to adjust ride height. I put the 3's in and never touch them again unless I break.
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:25 PM   #1020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahamoti View Post
Does everyone use the ride height adjusters that come with the kit? Having to remove not just the 4 main screws, but also the 4 screws holding the arm mounts, seems like more hassle than it should be.

I was thinking using the 3mm adjuster, then 4x10x1mm washers underneath it, instead of ever using the 4/5mm adjusters. Anyone see a possible problem with doing it this way?
like Andrew already mentioned, leave the 3mm attached and add thin shims. the crc shims are nice for fine tuning, with a max change of 1.5mm. if you want to run a wider range of tire diameters, then the aluminum shimset from manutech are very handy, they come in 6 to a package, each is .65mm. for an additional 1.8mm height change, plus you can fine tune the rake within +/- 0.15m if you are really fussy.

washers will work, but they are a pain to swap in and out. with the crc and manutech shims you just need to loosen the screws and you don't have to remove them completely.
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