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Old 12-31-2010, 09:32 AM   #916
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Hi guys,

We have indoor carpet rc track & shop in Chino CA.

CRC Gen-XL, Gen-X10 parts and tires are back in stock.

Click Here to check out.

Happy New Year.
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:05 AM   #917
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Ok fast guys, I have a couple questions on the gen xl.

1. Anyone finding the center pivot ball wearing out rather quickly, even with applying grease and not hitting anything?

2. This has been a question from me and a couple other drivers at my track. If I center the rear track width/spacing with the hole in the lower pod(2 shims on the right and one on the left, roughly), and then run a ruler up to the front on both sides, it's off.

So basically I moved one shim over to the left side and when I run the ruler, the front wheels are more centered/line up with the back.

I guess the real question is. Is it more important to center the rear axle to the pod or have the axle centered so the front lines up better(front being narrower of course)?

I'm thinking right now, if I shift the axle over, I should re-balance the rear pod....but maybe I'm over-thinking it.

Thanks

Marty
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:32 AM   #918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martymiller View Post
Ok fast guys, I have a couple questions on the gen xl.

1. Anyone finding the center pivot ball wearing out rather quickly, even with applying grease and not hitting anything?

2. This has been a question from me and a couple other drivers at my track. If I center the rear track width/spacing with the hole in the lower pod(2 shims on the right and one on the left, roughly), and then run a ruler up to the front on both sides, it's off.

So basically I moved one shim over to the left side and when I run the ruler, the front wheels are more centered/line up with the back.

I guess the real question is. Is it more important to center the rear axle to the pod or have the axle centered so the front lines up better(front being narrower of course)?

I'm thinking right now, if I shift the axle over, I should re-balance the rear pod....but maybe I'm over-thinking it.

Thanks

Marty
Hey Marty,

I've used the same center pivot for 3 seasons now. I polished the pivot ball and lightly deburred the plasic assembly and that's it. I set it for a slight bit of slop (up and down movement). Never seen any additional wear. Maybe the burrs wore off or the grease you applied wore the plastic faster?

As for the rear spacing, I use 1 shim on each side. Then depending on traction, 2 shims on the inside of the front wheels with 1 on the outside.
I haven't checked the lineup between the front and rear tires in a while, but last time I did what I just posted lined up pretty close. You'll have soo many things that can change that, it's not worth the trouble chasing it.

-Wayne
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:59 AM   #919
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Thanks Wayne,

I got the center pivot wearing pretty fast both ways, grease or no grease. I'm thinking in the initial install, I did'nt have enough slop and that tension prematurely wore it out. I'll let it be sloppy on the next one.

The shim info is good to know. I'll need to check later, but I think running one and one on the rear would get them more lined up with the front. Actually the issue I was having was a slight push turning right and amazing turning left.....it helped slightly when I shifted the axle over.

Thanks again.
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:13 AM   #920
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Originally Posted by martymiller View Post
Thanks Wayne,

I got the center pivot wearing pretty fast both ways, grease or no grease. I'm thinking in the initial install, I did'nt have enough slop and that tension prematurely wore it out. I'll let it be sloppy on the next one.

The shim info is good to know. I'll need to check later, but I think running one and one on the rear would get them more lined up with the front. Actually the issue I was having was a slight push turning right and amazing turning left.....it helped slightly when I shifted the axle over.

Thanks again.
That slight push can be caused by a number of issues.
Have you checked:
chassis weight on the front tires
chassis being level from left to right (in the front)
equal camber
equal castor
equal droop

Those are just a few things I spot check when I have the same issue.
I have come across a few times where I actually set up more camber right to left when right hand turns were higher speed then the left turns.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:07 AM   #921
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Originally Posted by sg1 View Post
That slight push can be caused by a number of issues.
Have you checked:
chassis weight on the front tires
chassis being level from left to right (in the front)
equal camber
equal castor
equal droop

Those are just a few things I spot check when I have the same issue.
I have come across a few times where I actually set up more camber right to left when right hand turns were higher speed then the left turns.
Right on, I'm a little psychotic about making sure everything is equal. My nickname has been "billionth of an inch" when it come to being picky about the car.

I scaled the car at every point along the way when I installed the electronics and after everything was in. It's spot on.

I measured a ton of stuff last night, rear side springs and tubes off and the front axles on 20mm blocks, the difference in the rear end of the chassis plate was .1 mm. right to left.

With the car on blocks, the front arms were .1mm difference also.

I'm thinking .2mm total is not a ton of difference.

As for the front, I measure the spring along with the pivot ball and e clip for the kingpin length, for the no sag/preload setting for the specific side. The springs are a different length slightly. I'll need to check that later, one could be collapsing more than the other one.

With the springs off, the front end drops like a rock in all steering angles, I know that can wreak havok.

I'll recheck the things you mentioned. The push difference is slight, I'm leaning toward one spring possible being a little weak, I'll need to rig up a spring dyno, and get a new set of springs probably.

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:36 PM   #922
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You may also want to check your sidelinks. One of those a little too tight could cause what you are describing.
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:02 PM   #923
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it's also critical to make sure that there is no bind between the two side links and the center pivot ball. if the adjustment on the center ball is too far one way, the side to side motion of the pod will feel tight. And if the adjustment is too far the other way, then there will be a distinct notchy feel right near the center of the side to side motion. When the adjustment is right, the pod pivots completely freely in fore/aft and side to side directions. It's all but impossible to feel if it's free enough with the whole pod assembled. It's best to remove the side springs and dampener tubes, the top plate, and both side plates, so that the only pod piece that's connected up is the bottom graphite pod plate. With just that in hand, you'll be able to feel right away if the motion is free enough. Since you've worn the center pivot, I'm guessing that perhaps that adjustment is incorrect. My car is years old and I'm working with the original center pivot ball and sockets.......mine is still free and it's not worn at all. But I do check this adjustment anytime that the car sees a hard hit. It's not at all unusual to find that the adjustment has been knocked out of whack. The car always works better when the pod motion is totally free and smooth with nary a hint of tightness or notchyness.
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:17 PM   #924
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I concur, I'm a bind-checker-aholic. I check it all the time, and it's super smooth.
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:10 PM   #925
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I found this on CRC's website today and thought I would share.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rticle&sid=132

Yay!
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:06 AM   #926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I found this on CRC's website today and thought I would share.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rticle&sid=132

Yay!

Awesome, this was obvious. At the last Grand Slam race, you could find more broken CRC kingpins out of the grove then misc body clips and parts. I went through 3 packs myself.
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:44 AM   #927
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I went through 3 packs myself.
Quit hitting stuff, Mark.
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:01 PM   #928
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Hi guys, I am building up a Gen XL at the moment and have a question for you. I can't seem to move the motor that far forward to get the correct gear mesh as a screw that passes up through the bottom pod plate and into the side plate seems to be stopping it. It is not actually the screw, but the round bit in the carbon that holds the screw. Anyone else have this problem? Cheers, Chris.
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:11 PM   #929
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HI
Just came back from racing this car went from a xray to this and wow,huge improvement in pace only 2 laps off the mod guys,only running 10.5 1st run really good,few tweeks from kit on the pace,so much easier to drive fast
Cant wait for the next time now,
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:38 PM   #930
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Coming from racing Mini-Z would you guys say that a 1/12 handles more like a 2wd Mini-Z than a 1/10 TC? I have a TC6 and raced it once on my local carpet track but felt like the car was all over the place. I'm thinking 1/12 will have a more familiar feel for me?
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