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Old 10-31-2010, 02:54 AM   #796
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Ok thanks ill give that a go



Anyone have answers for my other questions?

Thanks
Hey Ant... Try heavier damper tube oil. I have run without the side springs and it makes the car easy to drive hard but a little slow left right with reduced turn in. I currently run the hard (purple) side springs to try and get minimum rear grip in the turn. Makes the car quite quick I find and they thread onto the kit holders unlike blue and green.

Just run the NSW state titles and managed to TQ and win the event. I magenta rears with purple fronts quite quick especially when large (new) on the asphalt surface. If anyone would like to try my setup I'll post it up for you.
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:30 PM   #797
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Hey guys. Question for all of you pros out there. I've been running the xl in both stock and mod for the last year and it has been a great car. My question is about the front end. When running sag or front droop how much silver do you typically want to see of the king pin when looking at the front end when it is loaded up? The silver I am talking about is between the lower ball and the steering block. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:36 PM   #798
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I was instructed by Dumper to run .404 inches from steering block to outside clip groove which gives you no front end droop but is not really loading spring either. I found that if there is droop in front end car get a little less predictable under hard direction changes, and can begin to dive in hard too
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Old 11-01-2010, 04:39 PM   #799
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I was instructed by Dumper to run .404 inches from steering block to outside clip groove which gives you no front end droop but is not really loading spring either. I found that if there is droop in front end car get a little less predictable under hard direction changes, and can begin to dive in hard too
Thanks for the info. Sometimes I find myself screwing in the king pin on one side or the other because I will check it and one side will have more sag droop than the other. Is this normal or should the springs be replaced when this happens? Thanks again
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Old 11-01-2010, 04:41 PM   #800
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Thanks for the info. Sometimes I find myself screwing in the king pin on one side or the other because I will check it and one side will have more sag droop than the other. Is this normal or should the springs be replaced when this happens? Thanks again
Myself I've always changed spring if length of kingpin checks out
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:19 PM   #801
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I'm looking to get a GenX12, have the Gen X10 and very pleased with it.

Have offer on a GenX12, not XL. Is there somewhere to download manual?
Also going to pick up a few spares from rcmodel, what a-arm part number is it on the car? 1247 or 3247? Is there something other i will need for it?
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:31 PM   #802
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http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...showpage&pid=7

Car comes with 3247.

I have seen enough guys run it box stock and win that I wouldn't say there's anything necessary. The long arm option is nice for faster classes or lower grip and I happen to like the thick rear top plate and the brass pivot balls. Maybe a set of .45 springs and the tube lubes.
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:20 PM   #803
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http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...showpage&pid=7

Car comes with 3247.

I have seen enough guys run it box stock and win that I wouldn't say there's anything necessary. The long arm option is nice for faster classes or lower grip and I happen to like the thick rear top plate and the brass pivot balls. Maybe a set of .45 springs and the tube lubes.
Thank you, will get the #30000 lube for the tubes. Will also order some springs along with XL conversion set.

I'm a noob with 12th scale, have ordered the Xerun 1s 120A esc. Do i need to run cell booster still? Do i need seperate pack to run servo off? Also, will a 9.5t Speed Passion work? We run F1 with spec 3000kv Ezruns now and they are bullets.

I bet these questions are asked many times, late in the night in Norway and don't bother searching...
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:20 PM   #804
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Guys I need to get a bit more front end. Im running yellows and magentas and I'm running long arms with 5 deg mounts and shims all back. Its very stable but needs a bit more mid corner on the higher speed turns.

Thanks
Go to 10 degree mounts. Corner entry and exit should remain the same, but the added reactive caster should increase mid-corner steering.
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Old 11-07-2010, 11:59 PM   #805
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ttt


Is there another aluminum left bulk head besides the micro left bulkhead? I swear I remember there being a longer aluminum bulkhead that fit the GXL that extended forward and mounted in the forward screw hole...

Am I going crazy?
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:25 AM   #806
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ttt


Is there another aluminum left bulk head besides the micro left bulkhead? I swear I remember there being a longer aluminum bulkhead that fit the GXL that extended forward and mounted in the forward screw hole...

Am I going crazy?
Yes there was, though I don't think it is available now. That is a pity as I'd like one too, I've broken a couple of pod bottoms just in front of the micro bulkhead, and the longer one would have prevented it.

Trev
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:45 AM   #807
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All the Jap racers seem to be running a motor bulkhead on the left side also, with some sort of custom top plate extending to both sides.
I want to try something also, the left pod seems to get a vibration with an unbalanced wheel, cant be good for handling.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:18 AM   #808
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I run a motor side plate on both sides with a hand made graphite top plate to tie the two side plates together. It's not as easy now to drop in a motor as compared to the standard XL wide open pod design. But the pod is much stiffer. And since I've done this, bent motor side plates have become a thing of the past. The team guys win plenty of races with the kit setup. I just feel more confident with a stiffer and more robust pod assembly.
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Yes there was, though I don't think it is available now. That is a pity as I'd like one too, I've broken a couple of pod bottoms just in front of the micro bulkhead, and the longer one would have prevented it.

Trev
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:40 AM   #809
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
Yes there was, though I don't think it is available now. That is a pity as I'd like one too, I've broken a couple of pod bottoms just in front of the micro bulkhead, and the longer one would have prevented it.

Trev
You read my mind. I broke a bottom plate at the front screw hole.
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:42 AM   #810
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ttt


Is there another aluminum left bulk head besides the micro left bulkhead? I swear I remember there being a longer aluminum bulkhead that fit the GXL that extended forward and mounted in the forward screw hole...

Am I going crazy?
Ashfordhobby.com has one here is the link
http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=6722
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