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Old 10-12-2010, 11:21 AM   #751
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where is a good gearing start for a 17.5 and 13.5? thanks!
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Old 10-12-2010, 01:28 PM   #752
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It has been suggested to me that my car would be far better with a proper thrust bearing. Is this the case and if so what thrust are people using?
Just like the other driver has said, my thrust kits will not make a diff faster. What it does is make them last far longer without worrying if you are going to rough one up during the event. I have felt diff's in both configurations (with thrust kit and without) and feel that there those in the world that take the time to build super feeling diff's without thrust bearings. They usually last for a few runs and then they may need to be looked at again. The thrust kits do add just a little parasitic drag due to the bearing, but it stays consistent. My kits come with a grooved washer. One thing that I am playing with is flipping the grooved washer over letting the thrust bearing run on the flat side of the washers. This actually feels free'er, but I do not have a bearing longevity report just yet.

In a nut shell, if you are Joe Club Racer and the club racing does not allow a lot of time for maintenance, then a thrust kit just may be for you. If you are at one of the big races and have lots of time, then run with the hub bearing and keep an eye on the diff.


If you are doing 17.5 no boost; try 90-95mm r/o
If you are doing 13.5 boost; try upper 60's to low 70's.
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Old 10-12-2010, 01:33 PM   #753
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Thumbs up thanks for the reply

with my 13.5 boost advanced electronics im getting way to hott about 4 min in and its shutting down..with my version 2 and my 17.5 its eating up my sspurs because as soon as i let off the throttle my brakes engage? i have downsized my pinion with the advanced setup and its seeming to help...any pinion/ spur gear selections thaht might help?anyone els running the lrp? what a head ache! im still not fully understanding the roll out theroy...sorry im mainly a dirt guy...
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Old 10-12-2010, 03:19 PM   #754
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The BD should be set at profile #5. If you have a Duo1 13.5, set it in the most timed set of holes. Novak 13.5, set it at the + or 45* mark. If you have 43mm tire, a 76 spur, put a 40 tooth pinion and check temps from there. Aim for 130-140 temps after 8 minutes. Some motors run hot and fade like: Pulse, Duo2, Nemesis. Those are going to be tricky to tune.

Kimbrough are excellent spurs. If you are meshed correctly, you wont strip.

You shouldn't ever have drag brake set up for 12th scale. Coast roll the corners.

Tire Dia x pi / spur x pinion = roll out
43mm x 3.14 / 76 x 40 = 71mm r/o
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Old 10-12-2010, 03:22 PM   #755
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finally i understand it.....
thanks a lot i really apreciate it..
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Old 10-13-2010, 06:57 AM   #756
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Just like the other driver has said, my thrust kits will not make a diff faster. What it does is make them last far longer without worrying if you are going to rough one up during the event. I have felt diff's in both configurations (with thrust kit and without) and feel that there those in the world that take the time to build super feeling diff's without thrust bearings. They usually last for a few runs and then they may need to be looked at again. The thrust kits do add just a little parasitic drag due to the bearing, but it stays consistent. My kits come with a grooved washer. One thing that I am playing with is flipping the grooved washer over letting the thrust bearing run on the flat side of the washers. This actually feels free'er, but I do not have a bearing longevity report just yet.

In a nut shell, if you are Joe Club Racer and the club racing does not allow a lot of time for maintenance, then a thrust kit just may be for you. If you are at one of the big races and have lots of time, then run with the hub bearing and keep an eye on the diff.
Thanks. I thought it seemed to be working well and with my 5.5 I am running a whole day of racing on the cleaner tracks without needing a rebuild. I did flush the kit thust bearing and oil it and that made a monster difference. I didn't think a genuine thrust would improve it much further. Best improvement though comes from running 18 balls in the diff.
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:48 AM   #757
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Need some help. running a Gen XL with long top arms. If I put any tension on the rear side springs the car is undrivable, it has mass over-steer and very twitchy!!! with the springs off the chassis its fine? Tried different front tyre but that does not really help
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Old 10-18-2010, 06:07 AM   #758
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Pull the eclip and springs off the front end. With your finger push the kingpin up to the e clip grove and pull your finger away quickly. Does the kingpin fall back down all the way? If not you have binding in the frontend and it is not working properly.
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Old 10-19-2010, 02:40 PM   #759
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When is lipo chassis going to be available?
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Old 10-19-2010, 11:32 PM   #760
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Just like the other driver has said, my thrust kits will not make a diff faster. What it does is make them last far longer without worrying if you are going to rough one up during the event. I have felt diff's in both configurations (with thrust kit and without) and feel that there those in the world that take the time to build super feeling diff's without thrust bearings. They usually last for a few runs and then they may need to be looked at again. The thrust kits do add just a little parasitic drag due to the bearing, but it stays consistent. My kits come with a grooved washer. One thing that I am playing with is flipping the grooved washer over letting the thrust bearing run on the flat side of the washers. This actually feels free'er, but I do not have a bearing longevity report just yet.

In a nut shell, if you are Joe Club Racer and the club racing does not allow a lot of time for maintenance, then a thrust kit just may be for you. If you are at one of the big races and have lots of time, then run with the hub bearing and keep an eye on the diff.
This kinda info is why Bodine is one of my RC heroes.
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Old 10-20-2010, 03:53 PM   #761
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i dont always use a diff thrust bearing.....but when i do, it a slapmaster!
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Old 10-20-2010, 04:30 PM   #762
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i dont always use a diff thrust bearing.....but when i do, it a slapmaster!
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Old 10-24-2010, 07:19 PM   #763
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3rd page? Yikes.

Did you know...

The AE castor shim/clips fit nicely on the pro-strut front end replacing the CRC white/clear castor shims? This allows you to change castor without removing the castor block cap.

I imagine the CRC team guys would never dream of doing this, but I thought I would share regardless.

AWD
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Old 10-24-2010, 07:22 PM   #764
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
3rd page? Yikes.

Did you know...

The AE castor shim/clips fit nicely on the pro-strut front end replacing the CRC white/clear castor shims? This allows you to change castor without removing the castor block cap.

I imagine the CRC team guys would never dream of doing this, but I thought I would share regardless.

AWD
thanks for sharing. nice info
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:26 PM   #765
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Finished 2nd in stock at the Halloween classic with the new solid/longer chassis. Car is super smooth thru corners and was on rails all weekend long. I will post up set up very soon. The chassis will be a must have for any Gen xl owner.Huge thanks to Frank, Brian, Mario, and Dave E for all the set up tips, help and dumper boot camp priceless knowledge that I could not of done as well without it this weekend.
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