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Old 02-07-2010, 09:05 PM   #601
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Mark,

I would try up to 1 degree of camber on the front and I have had good luck running less caster with 2 shims in front and 1 in the rear.

Hope this helps
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:23 PM   #602
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Ran the car today, for a smaller tight track, car handled quite well from coming straight from my 3rd round of the NEGS series setup from Tri-State. Quick question, the car wants to push when at high speeds, going into a tight 180. Now I know there's alot of momentum that's going to cause that, but it's not warping how I would like it.

Went from 5* to 10* blocks upfront, help a little, and worked well on other parts of the track, but still pushes at high-power. I'm looking for it to almost "Dive" better into the corner. I'm running -0.5 chamber in the front.
Are you running short-arm or long-arm? If long-arm, try going short. It'll give more camber gain, and thus more mid corner steering/rotation.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:01 AM   #603
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Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
seriously...unless you normally run motors lower then 5.5 turns, you don't need the RS Pro speedo...if you run the spec classes (13.5, 17.5, 21.5, even 10.5) you can do with the 'standard' RS speedo...

actually a lot of the team guys only run the RS speedos I know I do
+1

I've been running 10.5 with an RS for ages and there's nothing wrong with it. No difference in power to an RS Pro and it hardly gets warm

You really only need the RS Pro if you're running low turn modified motors.

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Old 02-08-2010, 09:04 AM   #604
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Originally Posted by madhammer View Post
Mark,

I would try up to 1 degree of camber on the front and I have had good luck running less caster with 2 shims in front and 1 in the rear.

Hope this helps
Alright, I'm currently running all shims in the rear, so I'll give it a shot.






Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
Are you running short-arm or long-arm? If long-arm, try going short. It'll give more camber gain, and thus more mid corner steering/rotation.

I'm running the long arms, So I'll throw the old ones on next time depending on how it feels. Thanks
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:58 PM   #605
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Default Loss of rear grip

6 minutes into a run my Gen Xl gets real loose in the rear and I can barely drive the car the last two minutes. Any sugestions as to how I can fix this would be appreciated. I'm runiing 1s lipo with a 17.5 motor if it makes a difference. The first part of the run the car is awesome, just need to fix the last 2 minutes.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:22 PM   #606
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Sounds to me like you have too much front grip and are working your rear tire too much. They loose compound too early. you could also have too hard of a rear tire. Depending on our track temp if it's above 70 degrees then I can run magenta rears with purple or pink fronts. If it's colder say 67 then I have to go to White rears and magenta fronts as I loose traction in the last 2 min. But I have a very aggressive handling car. I like it on the edge of rolling over. But that's just me.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:02 PM   #607
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6 minutes into a run my Gen Xl gets real loose in the rear and I can barely drive the car the last two minutes. Any sugestions as to how I can fix this would be appreciated. I'm runiing 1s lipo with a 17.5 motor if it makes a difference. The first part of the run the car is awesome, just need to fix the last 2 minutes.
What's your set-up, and what traction compound is used at your track?
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:11 AM   #608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobinmt View Post
6 minutes into a run my Gen Xl gets real loose in the rear and I can barely drive the car the last two minutes. Any sugestions as to how I can fix this would be appreciated. I'm runiing 1s lipo with a 17.5 motor if it makes a difference. The first part of the run the car is awesome, just need to fix the last 2 minutes.
Read what jdeadman wrote to you a few post up.
I look at how the front tires get a glaze. Getting a glaze on the front tires is gripping to much.
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:36 AM   #609
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Here again is my setup guide that I collected from all of the information gathered here on this forum, on Marc,s blog and others. This is not my work just a compilation of the information I use every race.
Attachment 552978


I hope that It's usefull

And if anyone finds any error please fell free to let me know. It's still a work in progress

Last edited by jdeadman; 05-19-2014 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:04 AM   #610
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
What's your set-up, and what traction compound is used at your track?
I'm running CRC yellow grey rears and CRC grey fronts
3/4 - 1 degree of negative camber 0 toe
10 degree caster blocks all shims to the rear
I'm utilizing the long front arm set up
.45 front springs white springs in the rear with 7000 in the tubes
Battery in the foward position
Gold rear shock spring
I try to set the car up with the front end about .25mm lower then the front.
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:07 AM   #611
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Here again is my setup guide that I collected from all of the information gathered here on this forum, on Marc,s blog and others. This is not my work just a compilation of the information I use every race.
Attachment 552978


I hope that It's usefull

And if anyone finds any error please fell free to let me know. It's still a work in progress
WOW this is awesome!!!!
Thank you very much..
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Old 02-09-2010, 12:01 PM   #612
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My Pleasure, I only started racing onroad last winter and I collected this info over that first year.
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:52 PM   #613
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Originally Posted by Bobinmt View Post
I'm running CRC yellow grey rears and CRC grey fronts
3/4 - 1 degree of negative camber 0 toe
10 degree caster blocks all shims to the rear
I'm utilizing the long front arm set up
.45 front springs white springs in the rear with 7000 in the tubes
Battery in the foward position
Gold rear shock spring
I try to set the car up with the front end about .25mm lower then the front.
I'd try black front tires. you may have to dope a bit more of the tire, and add a bit more camber, (maybe go to 1.5 degrees), but it shouldn't gain as much grip over the course of the run as the greys do. I might also try 10k in the tubes.
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:09 AM   #614
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Originally Posted by tfirsching View Post
When you turn the wheel on your radio, the very first reaction from your car is what I was referring to. When people talk about a car that is too sensitive or aggressive around center, it means that the car is making more of a turn than you want it to with the first tiny bit of radio input.



No. What I meant by race ready is - battery, motor, everything is in the car, the car is tweaked flat and you are ready to hit the track for a qualifier. Then you set the car on any flat surface and get down eye level with the front end. Observe the gap between the steering block and the lower arm. On my car it is about 1mm. If you set -1mm of front spring preload, your car would set down into the springs when it is setting on the wheels and that would probably turn into more like 3mm of front end droop.
Hi
I have been running the GENXL for a few meetings now. Previous car was a t-bar so its taking a little getting used to especially what does what to adjust the handling to my liking. The discussion about "about center" is interesting. Any tips on how to make the car less aggressive around center without losing overall steering. I typically run about -10% exp at the moment.
Thanks
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:29 AM   #615
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Hi
I have been running the GENXL for a few meetings now. Previous car was a t-bar so its taking a little getting used to especially what does what to adjust the handling to my liking. The discussion about "about center" is interesting. Any tips on how to make the car less aggressive around center without losing overall steering. I typically run about -10% exp at the moment.
Thanks
PeterA
Make the front end stiffer, get the brace, it works very well. You could also try shimming the front of centre shock by 0.5mm. And .55 front springs
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