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Old 11-18-2009, 06:07 AM   #346
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Originally Posted by GasGod View Post
I have oneof the first run batch of XL's.I run a hitech 225mg and mine is not centered either--
I would also like to know why-Or if this was designed to be this way.
never seen this on other cars-
I put a futaba on and its the same-I havn't gotten any answers.
The servo itself is not centered, the servo output shaft (what the servo saver bolts to) is in the center line of the chassis. With that in mind, since the output shaft is not centered within the servo, the entire servo will not be centered, just the outrput shaft. You want the center point of the steering to be centered.

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Old 11-18-2009, 11:29 AM   #347
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Cutting them down will free the car a bit, and with Pinks, I've always found that they wear like iron. Cutting them down that small shouldn't reduce usable tire life that much.
Thanks, it also seems like my front tires are getting gummy and has some effects on the handling like stepping out. Will switching to a harder tire up front help with this at all? Also, if there is very high bite will the pinks tend to make the car a little pushy? Thanks for the help guys!!
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Old 11-18-2009, 12:01 PM   #348
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Thanks, it also seems like my front tires are getting gummy and has some effects on the handling like stepping out. Will switching to a harder tire up front help with this at all? Also, if there is very high bite will the pinks tend to make the car a little pushy? Thanks for the help guys!!
You can try a black front tire. It tends to gum up less, but doesn't offer quite the same level of steering. As for the pinks becoming a little too hooked up as the day goes on, try cleaning them out between heats with a little motor spray. They should stay a little more consistent.
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Old 11-18-2009, 04:52 PM   #349
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Originally Posted by dumper View Post
The servo itself is not centered, the servo output shaft (what the servo saver bolts to) is in the center line of the chassis. With that in mind, since the output shaft is not centered within the servo, the entire servo will not be centered, just the outrput shaft. You want the center point of the steering to be centered.

dumper
I know -- I am talkin about the output shaft--It's off to the right a good mil or more.
If ya come ta horsham some time I'll show it to ya.
Another guy(low et on page 23) posted his was the same--Just checkin ta see if this was "normal"(I don't think so)or if the first batch had issues.Hate ta dremel up a new car right away--or does it even matter--I am by no means a Schreff or Larry---lol
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Old 11-18-2009, 05:40 PM   #350
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I know -- I am talkin about the output shaft--It's off to the right a good mil or more.
If ya come ta horsham some time I'll show it to ya.
Another guy(low et on page 23) posted his was the same--Just checkin ta see if this was "normal"(I don't think so)or if the first batch had issues.Hate ta dremel up a new car right away--or does it even matter--I am by no means a Schreff or Larry---lol
Hmm, the Gen XL swep all 3 classes at Vegas and TQ'd and won both classes at the Halloween Classis this year. I would have to take a shot in the dark and say the alignment of the servo is suffecient for you.

Just put the car togather and start running some laps.
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:21 PM   #351
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Originally Posted by GasGod View Post
I know -- I am talkin about the output shaft--It's off to the right a good mil or more.
If ya come ta horsham some time I'll show it to ya.
Another guy(low et on page 23) posted his was the same--Just checkin ta see if this was "normal"(I don't think so)or if the first batch had issues.Hate ta dremel up a new car right away--or does it even matter--I am by no means a Schreff or Larry---lol
See if you can loosen the servo screws and move the servo over in the servo posts. My 9650 is dead-nuts straight.
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:38 PM   #352
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I have my 3650 installed and it is dead nuts straight . do you have the servo mounts in the right holes?
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:40 PM   #353
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Just checked, my 9650 is dead-on. This build was VERY sweet. Can't wait fot the XXL!
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:57 PM   #354
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I've ran mine on high bite asphalt a few times it the kit setup is pretty dialed! I used the 10* caster blocks with both shims in the rear for 4-5* static caster, 4mm ride height ff/rr, pink rears/dbl pink fronts. I was surprised how well it ran compared to my old XII....honestly felt the XL was more consistent the whole 8 mins. IF the bite is low use the softer blue side springs.
Thanks...
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:43 AM   #355
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It may be the servo-- I also cannot put my Tekin rs behind the servo,as shown in the CRC websites pics.
thought I'd take a chance on the Hitec as I had one floating around.-- it worked great in my 12L4,and the manual says it can be used.I have a 9650 in my BMI but hate to tear it out as it is my primary car till I get this sorted out.
How much ackerman do you guys run-with my servo mounted in forward holes and 2 mil spacer under the ears,ballstuds behind saver,my links are almost straight. If I built it to kit specs(no spacer behind servo ears)the links looked to have reverse ackerman(angled to rear of car).I'm confused,not mad.
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:42 AM   #356
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I just looked at my car, although I am running a JR 3650. With the servo mounts pushed all the way forward, and the included spacers, my tie-rods are swept back. It is not a huge amount, but it is clearly visible. I have seen a couple of cars that I have helped people with who could not fit their speed control in the center, and they all had the same problem. They did not have the servo mounts in the right holes. Make sure the servo mounts are pushed all the way forward, and the servo is mounted in the top holes ( the top and the 3rd hole down)
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:07 AM   #357
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Gas god.

Would there be an experienced racer at you're local track that could help you build the car? I hate to see people thrashing the Co. only to find out that they were wrong. ie servo not being centered...ie not having servo mounted correctly to fit speedo...
If you spent an eighth of the amount of time practicing that you spend complaining and calling out CRC you would be much better off.
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:08 AM   #358
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I am seeing loads of great Carpet set-ups but are there any have a good asphalt set ups??
You got one? I just picked mine up That's already a class!
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:17 AM   #359
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I just looked at my car, although I am running a JR 3650. With the servo mounts pushed all the way forward, and the included spacers, my tie-rods are swept back. It is not a huge amount, but it is clearly visible. I have seen a couple of cars that I have helped people with who could not fit their speed control in the center, and they all had the same problem. They did not have the servo mounts in the right holes. Make sure the servo mounts are pushed all the way forward, and the servo is mounted in the top holes ( the top and the 3rd hole down)
All that Dumper said is correct.

The Gen-XL is designed around the JR 3550/3650 servos but there are elements designed into the car to allow other servos such as KO 949/951 & Futaba 9602/9650 to effectively be installed. This design element allows for three different types of servos. You may have to flip the servo over to the left side of the car to get the output shaft centered for the KO and Futaba servos but they will fit correctly. There maybe other servos that will work in the car but their dimensions will need to be very close to the servos listed above. You can go online to servo manufacture websites and most, if not all, list servo specifications. This will allow you to select servos that will match the dimensions of the servos known to fit.

Centering the servo output shaft is mandatory. Not centering the output shaft will cause some left/right steering issues. As far as the angle of the tie rods, they should be swept back from the servo saver to the steering blocks. Amount depends on how much Ackerman you want. I have run them straight with good results as well as swept back.

I mount my tie rods on the back side of the servo saver. I want the pickup points of the tie rods as close to the servo output shaft bearing as possible. I then mount the servo as far forward as I can get the servo. Usually the servo ends up slammed up against the right lower control arm. This allows for some Ackermann and enhances the centering of the servo when you let go of the steering wheel. Sometimes you may have to slightly relieve the area where the caster blocks mount to the lower control arms so that the tie rods do not hit. Like Dumper said, mount the servo in the topmost holes of the servo mounts.

If you do all of the above, you will be able to mount the ESC between the antenna mount and the servo and still maintain proper steering geometry.

You have selected a great car!! When assembled optimally, you will have a really good race car more than capable of winning any race.
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Old 11-19-2009, 12:12 PM   #360
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Put dumper's setup on my gen-xl and since dropping it down on the track I have not changed a thing has been hooked since day 1. Thanks for posting your setup sheet.

Have noticed a couple of things and was wondering what the best way of tuning them out of the car would be. Run on CRC carpet but the track is bumpy.

1) At the end of the main straight there is a high speed sweeper. The inside right wheel likes to leave the track. (visibly from the drivers stand). Checked the front end and nothing is visibly broken when playing with it. Put a softer center spring in the car and added additional pre-load to the side springs without effect. Any other ideas?

2) I have noticed the front tires like to cone. I have gone up from -.25deg camber to -.50deg and it has gone away slightly but the car has become more edgy. Is this just a case of visiting the tire truer more often to get that same good feeling.
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