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Old 11-12-2009, 05:47 PM   #316
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Thanks for the camber talk, makes sense... JEFF
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Old 11-13-2009, 02:58 AM   #317
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Ian...How much camber do you run on your luggage cart?

Looking forward to gridding up with you in cleveland. I am glad we are both running stock...this way the only way you can ruin my race is to hack me.
3 degrees of camber on the luggage cart, they have no camber gain but quite a bit of "caster"
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:29 AM   #318
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3 degrees of camber on the luggage cart, they have no camber gain but quite a bit of "caster"
How much toe in do you run on that luggage cart?
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:48 AM   #319
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you have 2 weeks to prepare yourself.
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Old 11-14-2009, 01:43 PM   #320
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How much toe in do you run on that luggage cart?
Always set toe-in to zero, helps with the staggering.

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you have 2 weeks to prepare yourself.
Already trying to figure out how to set the board so that I can harrass you on the mic and still have enough time to prepare fo my heat, which will probably be much later than yours anyway after we re-sort
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Old 11-14-2009, 03:49 PM   #321
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Already trying to figure out how to set the board so that I can harrass you on the mic and still have enough time to prepare fo my heat, which will probably be much later than yours anyway after we re-sort
i am sure you will find a way. if you would have gone to vegas, you could have watched me do it all on my own.
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:05 PM   #322
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Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now


Ian.....this is good. It seems to have worked for Doug..Maybe we can combine the class with a extra Midnite practice session like last year...or was that two years ago??
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:44 PM   #323
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Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now


Ian.....this is good. It seems to have worked for Doug..Maybe we can combine the class with a extra Midnite practice session like last year...or was that two years ago??
Sounds good to me.
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:38 AM   #324
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Has anyone run this car with the older style smaller front rims ? I think they are 35mm. I have some of the original GRP wheels that i would like to run but when fitted they look incredibly close to the bottom of the kingpin.

It would be really good if one of the team drivers would post how they check the tweak on the car. I'm finding it relatively insensitve to changes when I check it. I normally check the tweak using the coin trick whereby I put two coins on the front wheels and lift the chassis in the middle at the front with a fine point. I'm finding if the front left wheel lets the coin drop first then I'm tightening the back right tweak screw down to counter it, (left and right from in front of the car looking at it). However I can put a whole turn on the tweak screw and there is very little difference at the front end.

Totally different to my previous T-bar car which only required a 1/8th turn to remove the tweak.

Thanks

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Old 11-15-2009, 07:13 AM   #325
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Has anyone run this car with the older style smaller front rims ? I think they are 35mm. I have some of the original GRP wheels that i would like to run but when fitted they look incredibly close to the bottom of the kingpin.

It would be really good if one of the team drivers would post how they check the tweak on the car. I'm finding it relatively insensitve to changes when I check it. I normally check the tweak using the coin trick whereby I put two coins on the front wheels and lift the chassis in the middle at the front with a fine point. I'm finding if the front left wheel lets the coin drop first then I'm tightening the back right tweak screw down to counter it, (left and right from in front of the car looking at it). However I can put a whole turn on the tweak screw and there is very little difference at the front end.

Totally different to my previous T-bar car which only required a 1/8th turn to remove the tweak.

Thanks

KJR
Check the amount of droop you have in the front-end, and that the front-end is free. The only effective way to check tweak with the coin method is if the front end is dead even side to side, and pivoting freely. A tweak board will compensate for a front-end that is slightly off. I like the older black MIP unit.
The tweak springs you use will also affect how much you have to turn a spring to twaek the car, the softer the spring the less effect it will have on the tweak.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:04 AM   #326
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To tweak the car, as Ian says the front droop has to be equal. With the the car setup with fresh equal size tires, motor, bettery etc, you should see about the same amount of visible kinpin above the lower a-arm when the car is at rest. I have about .5mm of droop in the front of my cars. And you have to keep an eye on this, because the springs will fatigue over time, so adjustment is necessary. Once the springs stop changing or fatiguing, DONT CHANGE YOUR FRONT SPRINGS. Unless when you inspect them and they really bent up, then you should replace them. I see many guys get the car's right, and then change the front springs before a big race, then chase the normal initial degredation of the front springs. When you do that you will chase the tweak constantly.

I then tweak my car from the rear, I find this to be more consistent than from the front. I do this with an exacto, on a flat surface. By lifting the car off the lower rear pod plate, making sure the rear tires come of the ground at the same time. I always adjust both springs, to maintain the overall spring tenstion on the pod.

I then take the car over to tweak board to set the dead area, I use an integy laser board, and have ~1 degree of total dead area in the spring. I do this by setting the rear of the car on the movable area of the board, and slowly move the pod up and down with the board, to find where the opposing spring stops providing rebound, and then the other way, the difference in these 2 measurements is the "dead" area. Frank and chicky use a bubble level tewak board the same way. And even though I create this dead spot, the car still will still tweak off the rear, meaning the dead spot isn't so big that the pod flops around when tweaking the car.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KJR View Post
Has anyone run this car with the older style smaller front rims ? I think they are 35mm. I have some of the original GRP wheels that i would like to run but when fitted they look incredibly close to the bottom of the kingpin.

It would be really good if one of the team drivers would post how they check the tweak on the car. I'm finding it relatively insensitve to changes when I check it. I normally check the tweak using the coin trick whereby I put two coins on the front wheels and lift the chassis in the middle at the front with a fine point. I'm finding if the front left wheel lets the coin drop first then I'm tightening the back right tweak screw down to counter it, (left and right from in front of the car looking at it). However I can put a whole turn on the tweak screw and there is very little difference at the front end.

Totally different to my previous T-bar car which only required a 1/8th turn to remove the tweak.

Thanks

KJR
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Old 11-15-2009, 12:10 PM   #327
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Default centering the servo

Is there an issue with the servo not being centered in the xl? I have read somewhere that this was a problem with the holes being off. I have a jr 3650 on the way and havent been able to check this out for myself. thanks
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Old 11-15-2009, 01:19 PM   #328
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I have oneof the first run batch of XL's.I run a hitech 225mg and mine is not centered either--
I would also like to know why-Or if this was designed to be this way.
never seen this on other cars-
I put a futaba on and its the same-I havn't gotten any answers.
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Old 11-15-2009, 01:43 PM   #329
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I have oneof the first run batch of XL's.I run a hitech 225mg and mine is not centered either--
I would also like to know why-Or if this was designed to be this way.
never seen this on other cars-
I put a futaba on and its the same-I havn't gotten any answers.
i have a rc10r5 and the servo is not centered either.
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:25 PM   #330
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i have a rc10r5 and the servo is not centered either.
The Futaba 9650 does not seem to center up in the 12r5 or the 10r5. Pretty close to dead center in the XL
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