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3racing F109

Old 02-28-2011, 08:40 AM
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Been driving this car for a couple weeks now and love it. Handles like a 1/12 scale. Diggin the F1 thing.
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:09 AM
  #1472  
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Originally Posted by Acid_CZ View Post
I made rear adapters, mount them. Cut inner 2,5mm of rear tires on lathe, mount them. Made new longer king pins with self-locking nuts instead of E-clips, replaced front knuckle arms and wheel axles by Associated pan car ones and mount them. Thats it.
Do you sell this adapters, too?
I would be interessted.
Did you mount Pro10 Wheels?
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:03 AM
  #1473  
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Originally Posted by 3rd-dan View Post
Do you sell this adapters, too?
I would be interessted.
Did you mount Pro10 Wheels?
I will probably make some more as guys around are interested.
Pro10 and WGT wheels are the same I think, those on pictures are old Parma wheels.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:27 AM
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Ok Thanks.
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:24 PM
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I'd be interested in some adapters too.
Normal F1 foams are smaller diameter than the Historic kit rubbers, where as GT/Pro10 foams are a much closer diameter.
My P34 looks stupid with the smaller rear foams.
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:46 PM
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I just started assembling my f109, and I stripped the set screw hole on the left rear wheel hub. I hardly put any force into it and it stripped right out. I put some loc-tite on it to see if it will hold, but I'm not holding my breath. Do you guys think I could get a 'warranty' replacement from 3racing?
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Stregone View Post
I just started assembling my f109, and I stripped the set screw hole on the left rear wheel hub. I hardly put any force into it and it stripped right out. I put some loc-tite on it to see if it will hold, but I'm not holding my breath. Do you guys think I could get a 'warranty' replacement from 3racing?
Easier to drill and tap a hole on the opposite side of the hub.
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:33 PM
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Thats a really good idea, why didn't I think about that, lol.

Still, has anyone gotten anything defective replaced by 3racing? Never had to deal with any of these chinese companies on an issue like that.
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:00 PM
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I think the question is, it's so cheap, why bother dealing with the hassel ?
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Old 03-07-2011, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by LordAnubis View Post
I think the question is, it's so cheap, why bother dealing with the hassel ?
Well, I can't do it myself. A friend has all the proper equipment. Plus I'm curious, would be nice to know, and would be useful information for others in the future.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:16 PM
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My only concern would be that if it stripped, it's most likely weak metal in the part... and if you drill and tap somewhere else, it might jsut do the same thing? Either way dude its your car so your call
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:52 PM
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2011 UF1 season will start this Saturday at West Australian Coast Grand Prix...
8 races , 8 tracks, 1 race per month, 1 2011 UF1 Champion...

For details, check out:

http://www.charleslightfoot.com/UF1/UF1_home.html
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:38 PM
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I just finished putting together my kit, and test fit a battery. There is a fair bit of forwardand back room for adjustment. I tried putting the battery all the way back, but it interferes with the pod movement. I need some kind of spacer to prevent it from going all the way back. How do you guys secure your battery?
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:08 PM
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Battery tape...there are 4 slots on the side of the battery to loop tape through.
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:34 PM
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Stregone
Super glue a squaire balsa strip back to act as a stop. Also leave a small gap and you can use it to route the RX lead from the speed control to the other side.
Bob Oaks
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