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3racing F109

Old 06-01-2020, 03:41 PM
  #1981  
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Default Have a brand new 3Racing F109 in box

Hi,

I originally purchased this car for my son to drive, but I think he liked his Xbox more...lol

Anyway, I was going to list the brand new car in the box with a ton (over$100 of extras or hop-ups) on the For Sale forum, but I was not sure what price to list it for and hopefully get some guidance here. Btw, it does not come with a body.

Thanks, Mike
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Old 11-20-2020, 04:13 PM
  #1982  
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Finally got my F109 to the track. Reedy 25.5 motor. Front suspension is standard F104, rear has been converted to use Associated side springs and the battery is a shorty run across the chassis. One issue I am having is rear traction. The surface is low traction bumpy asphalt parking lot. I have had to turn the throttle profile all the way down on my Speed Passion Reventon speed control. Many times with throttle application it will kick the rear out to the right side and spin. I am using Volante medium blue front and asphalt super soft pink rear with SXT 3.0 applied to the rear tires only. Coming out of corners I have to be very careful on throttle application or it's going to go around, even with the punch dialed all the way out. I've got to make sure it's going straight before I apply full throttle. This is with a 25.5, and most guys around here are running 21.5 now.

I have 35wt in the center shock, the softest tamiya neon red TC spring, and tamiya soft F1 front springs. It's been a while since setup, but I believe I have the soft associated side spring and 80wt in the roll damper. I did add some preload to the side springs and it did seem to help traction while cornering. I've also dialed quite a bit of steering out of it with the D/R on the transmitter (45% now).

Is there any kind of F1 tuning guide out there? Like what to do if you are experiencing xxxx issue.

The other problem is the ball diff. I am using the 3racing version of the out tuned diff. I cannot get it tight enough where it doesn't slip when it does actually get traction. It was far worse when I had the throttle profile turned up to standard punch.






Last edited by WhiteLX; 11-20-2020 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 11-24-2020, 03:16 PM
  #1983  
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Originally Posted by WhiteLX View Post
Finally got my F109 to the track. Reedy 25.5 motor. Front suspension is standard F104, rear has been converted to use Associated side springs and the battery is a shorty run across the chassis. One issue I am having is rear traction. The surface is low traction bumpy asphalt parking lot. I have had to turn the throttle profile all the way down on my Speed Passion Reventon speed control. Many times with throttle application it will kick the rear out to the right side and spin. I am using Volante medium blue front and asphalt super soft pink rear with SXT 3.0 applied to the rear tires only. Coming out of corners I have to be very careful on throttle application or it's going to go around, even with the punch dialed all the way out. I've got to make sure it's going straight before I apply full throttle. This is with a 25.5, and most guys around here are running 21.5 now.

I have 35wt in the center shock, the softest tamiya neon red TC spring, and tamiya soft F1 front springs. It's been a while since setup, but I believe I have the soft associated side spring and 80wt in the roll damper. I did add some preload to the side springs and it did seem to help traction while cornering. I've also dialed quite a bit of steering out of it with the D/R on the transmitter (45% now).

Is there any kind of F1 tuning guide out there? Like what to do if you are experiencing xxxx issue.

The other problem is the ball diff. I am using the 3racing version of the out tuned diff. I cannot get it tight enough where it doesn't slip when it does actually get traction. It was far worse when I had the throttle profile turned up to standard punch.
If it only ever spins out in one direction its usually a tweak or balance issue. Make sure your rear is the same width from centre on both sides. If thats equal, check your preload on your side springs and add a quarter of a turn at a time to the opposite side to which it spins and then do a straight line acceleration test. Its crude but it does work. If you have access to a tweak station etc can use that.

The F109 is a pretty old car now and I haven't used mine in a couple of years but from memory I would suggest harder front springs and thicker oil in the roll damper to start. I think I always ran the hard/gold springs in the front and 2000cwt in the roll damper (its actually not very effective because of it's size thats why the heavy oil).

With the diff make sure you set the base tension with the nut on the diff and only use the thumb wheel for fine adjustment. Also make sure the oring is in good condition or it won't hold worth a damn. Better yet - just toss it in favour of a f104 diff.

Can't comment on the tyres as never used them but I always used Pit Shimzu 575 on the rear of mine no issues (available through Schumacher now).
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Old 11-24-2020, 05:22 PM
  #1984  
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First off, check the pod is correctly adjusted. On that car, you will need to adjust one of the link turnbuckles so the pod action is totally free. The best way is to remove the pod side plates, and everything else on the pod plate. The cross brace that holds the side springs, or at least the side springs themselves should be off so the pod can be cycled side to side to check for binding. There should be no binding, clicking, or other interference when you move the pod through its range of motion. If so, you need to adjust one of the links, but ONLY one link until the pod is totally free. It may need to be shorter or longer, you'll just have to adjust it and note if it gets better or worse. One thing that may help is noting the gap between the chassis and pod plate. If one side has a really big or small gap, try adjusting that side to get the gap more even.

otherwise..



Raise the front ride height so that it is at least 1 mm higher than the rear.
Go up one spring rate on the front.
Switch the camber mounting plate to the "1" position.
Not sure how much pod droop you have, but try it at 1mm. A bumpy track may need a little more. (you just make the shock longer by unscrewing the ball end) . Adding a little front droop can help transfer weight to the rear on power. This might require removing spacers under the steering arm.

8
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Old 11-24-2020, 07:36 PM
  #1985  
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Thanks for the info. When I rebuilt it, I made sure the pod was free and not clicking. The highest weight oil I have is 120wt. Aside from some 7k diff fluid. I seem to recall putting some glue on one of the holes in the piston for the roll damper.

I have a number of front springs, so Iíll try a stiffer front spring. I also have a softer set of rear tires on the way. I also have the med-hard front tires.

Iíll have to check the initial diff setting. Iím sure that the issue. Itís not loosening up due to the o-ring, I just canít tighten it any further with the adjustment wheel.
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Old 11-25-2020, 10:06 AM
  #1986  
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Make sure there is absolutely no air in the side damper and it is moving smoothly side to side.
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Old 01-06-2021, 03:38 AM
  #1987  
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Can you put the F104 wheels on the F109 front by changing the bearings, or do you have to change the entire front end to the F104 spec?
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Old 01-06-2021, 06:27 AM
  #1988  
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Yes, you can run 5x10x4mm bearings and run F104 wheels, it will just be pretty wide if you are using F104 rear wheels on the stock axle.

The F104 front end is relatively cheap to convert over and will fix the widths by narrowing it a bit.
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Old 01-08-2021, 04:56 PM
  #1989  
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F104 front end conversion is great for F109, the car was actually really good with it on rubber tires.
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