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Old 07-14-2011, 02:05 AM   #1591
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i actually opted for the softer front spring....to me the front stock ones seemed to stiff, just bounced on any ripple on the track.
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Old 07-14-2011, 06:31 PM   #1592
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Post Springs and starting points

if your looking for a point on where to start and what springs to try, take a look at this. I had help from JR007 , he gave me these pointers.

It's a complete different ball-game from touring cars. There are a few things to know:
1. Tires are king, get the right combo and you're 90% there, all tracks are different.
2. Front end, camber should be very minimal, 0-1 degree.
3. Front springs, harder reduces steering.
4. Centre spring, harder transfers weight to front more, making steering more sensitive.
5. Side springs adjust body roll, and therefore steering also, stiffer reduces roll and therfore produces more understeer.
6. Ride height should be level, or slightly lower at back if you want more rear traction.
7. Front droop, near zero. Rear droop, around 1.5mm or so to start, maybe less.

Best thing to do is play around!

Use the tamiya on road springs for the center spring. Im using the yellow and the blue ones. Front springs i have found the tamiya medium good for me. But what works for me may not work for you as im running outdoors with a silvercan.
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:13 PM   #1593
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Hi all,

tommorow, I am getting mine F109 and hopefully starting building it
Do you have any advices or tips for the building the kit?

I have no experience in building EP cars to be honest
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:02 PM   #1594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiktor0410 View Post
Hi all,

tommorow, I am getting mine F109 and hopefully starting building it
Do you have any advices or tips for the building the kit?

I have no experience in building EP cars to be honest
It's actually a pretty straight forward build. I wouldn't anticipate you having any problems. You will be done in a few hours. Just take your time.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:31 AM   #1595
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I just finished my F109:



The build went easily. Rcracer's blog helped me a lot (thanks!). The red paint is actually fluo pink
The only problem is that the turnbuckle wrench included to the kit does not actually fit any turnbuckle in the car

I have a few questions:
- which setup is a good starting point?
- what gearing should I use with 17,5T motor and 98T spur (also a good starting point needed)

Soon I am getting the motor and doing some test drive Can't wait to it!
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Old 07-24-2011, 12:27 PM   #1596
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Best thing the turnbuckle wrench did for me was turn up missing. Glad you got it together. Looks good. I would start with around a 22- 25 pinion. I run a 17.5 and its a bit too much for this light car. In a parking lot your goin to have to get on the throttle a bit easy, it will break loose pretty quick. I ran mine today in a parking lot on rubber tires, stock set up should be pretty good. I have harder front springs in mine right now for carpet and foams, I imagine the stock front springs would have worked out better in the parking g lot today.
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:14 PM   #1597
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Thanks for the reply.

The next thing I did after building was a great search for spare parts in my country. Most of them are available, some fit from the Tamiya F104 PRO car, but I can't find any wheels. There are two options: either buy them online (ebay, a shop) or try to fit 1/12 or Pancar wheels.

Maybe there are some adapters to fit the 1/12/Pancar wheels? If not, I will have to order larger amount from tqracing
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Old 07-24-2011, 06:58 PM   #1598
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I haven't broken but one part, which is ironic, because I hit the boards a lot. I cracked the plastic castor block 2 weeks ago, but I already had the aluminum one being shipped. The entire front end is about $20 so I will eventually grab that for back up. We had our first race yesterday, and I did well.
Abe-racing.com is another good place for wheels. Also D drive sports in Japan.
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:00 AM   #1599
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Weak point is the rear pod, more precisely corner of cutout for spur gear and hole for rear link. Racers here broke few of them. But we run 2s Lipo and 10,5T so the impacts have more energy...
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:03 AM   #1600
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Anyone know what other bodies fit the 109? Mine is pretty darn beat up, plus I did a rush job with the paint, could use another one. Problem is its kinda pricy to get just a body from overseas.
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Old 07-25-2011, 12:05 PM   #1601
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Anyone know what other bodies fit the 109? Mine is pretty darn beat up, plus I did a rush job with the paint, could use another one. Problem is its kinda pricy to get just a body from overseas.
I ordered an f103 body for mine. Will be here today. I'll post how much work it is to fit.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:32 PM   #1602
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^^Thanks, please let us know the outcome with your 103 body set.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:52 PM   #1603
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^^Thanks, please let us know the outcome with your 103 body set.
Looks like it will fit just fine. Haven't mounted it or cut it, but looks like there will be no problems. I just got the body, no wings, probably have to cut extra for front wing that I have. Biggest issue is choosing a livery for it.
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:30 PM   #1604
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Other people have used the F103 bodies on the F104 and F109 cars...it can work but the F103 bodies are quite a bit shorter so make sure you don't cut out the back portion until after you fit the body as alot of what you would normally cut off you will probably want to leave on.
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Old 07-26-2011, 04:04 PM   #1605
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Other people have used the F103 bodies on the F104 and F109 cars...it can work but the F103 bodies are quite a bit shorter so make sure you don't cut out the back portion until after you fit the body as alot of what you would normally cut off you will probably want to leave on.
thanks. Will do
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