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Old 01-18-2004, 07:46 PM   #16
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Man I have always ran non mainstream touring cars. Our track supports the standard TC3 and XXX-S and also alot of high end Tamiya touring cars like the 414M2 and the EVO 3 Surikan. I have always done well running odd stuff. You just need to be a good driver so you don't break a ton of parts. Also be prepared to order parts (normally not a problem as most arrive in just 2 or 3 days.) As you run the car slowly order parts til you have a nice supply or even look for used car for a spare to make a parts car.
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Old 01-19-2004, 02:25 AM   #17
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I'm racing a HPI Pro2. I bought it a year ago, NIB. Parts support around here in europe is really bad. So I got the most essential in my pit box myself.

I do know the car good and can set it up well.

But I'll say that next time, I'll get a car which is better supported locally, both when it about spares and knowledgeable people.
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Old 01-19-2004, 06:14 AM   #18
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no matter how fast you can get parts air freighted (overnight), unless you invest in duplicate parts for everything that breaks, you will be done for the day if you break a part that your lhs doesn't stock. I bought a car that was new and was minimally supported by my lhs, (assasin) big mistake. go with a car that has a proven record. Exotic is fine if it has a history. look on this website for the chassis specific threads, you can find a setup that will work. barracuda, warpspeed, etc.. just my 2c
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Old 01-19-2004, 06:34 AM   #19
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Basically the newer you are to RC, the more parts you will likely break. So if you're a consistent a-main driver, then get whatever you want, regardless of LHS support.
But if you're relatively new to the sport, and believe you'll be running into walls and breaking parts,, then cars with good LHS is a MUST!
Unless you have tons of cash and can order massive amount of spare parts each time online...
Another thing is to look around and see what others are driving. This way you can inquire about setup, and if some weird stuff breaks on your car, others might have spare parts you can buy off.. there is nothing worse than driving an hour to a track, play 5 minutes, break something and have to head home!
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Old 01-19-2004, 06:38 AM   #20
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I agree that the TC3 is good on carpet, but the Losi doesn't need to have the chassis replaced when it takes a tweak after the motor gets hot a few times.
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Old 01-19-2004, 12:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by wagonman72
From what I have seen the XXX-S G+ Losi is hard to beat in mod, on carpet, with foams. It's a little harder to get parts for than the TC3, and is less apt to suffer from chassis tweak.
Come on.Yeah were not talking about Matt Francis @ stockton wooping up on everyone.When it comes to the average racer which most people are,Tc3 is still the car to beat on carpet. Period.
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Old 01-19-2004, 01:35 PM   #22
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At our track http://www.rctrack.com, the Losi does very well in mod. It is the most dominate mod car at out track. Although Mike Dunnigan started running his TC3 in mod again which would make 2 TC3s vs about 5 XXX-Ss. In 19T class all cars do well. If a Yokomo is exotic so be it but it's doing well for me and others. So is the Losi, TC3s.
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Old 01-19-2004, 01:55 PM   #23
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not to follow the rest
For those of you that have purchased cars that your LHS does not support, what are your feelings on the purchase now that you've had the car for a bit, in other words was it worth it to just be a little different?

Also, being new to touring car I don't really know what parts I will need on hand just in case soemthing breaks. About how many parts would be wise to keep on hand and what am I looking to spend on these parts (rough estimate)?

Being new to TC should I just stick with something the local guys can help me setup properly (XXX-S, TC3

Drive what you like and what you want. I have been driving a Brokomo aka Yokomo and have been forced to mail order parts or drive 60 mile round trip to get parts form my Car. At most races there are normally enough people who have driven 90% or more different cars which are made and are always willing to help or assist newbie's at the tracks. For broken parts to keep on hand is simple A arms shock towers Body posts and other items that stick off the main part of the car.
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Old 01-19-2004, 03:25 PM   #24
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Are you buying a car to race, or to use in an art project?

This isn't a flame, just trying to raise a point. When it comes to racing, looks are not important at all. Even if a car looks cool, we cover it with a body anyway.

If you are going to get into competition, get a car that has a known reputation for being good. This list can include 'exotics'. Just make sure the car is supported in some way and you won't get stuck with a car you can't get any parts for.

Don't just look at the big national races and see what cars are doing well. The drivers that make the 'A' at these events are incredibly talented drivers and are capable of putting any car in the show. Take a look locally and see what cars do well.

If you look at average drivers, the TC3 is probably the most competetive car out there. It's been around for quite a while and is still capable of beating any car out there. I've driven the XXX-S, Xray T1 EVO2 and the Xray Raycer, and I go back to my TC3 every time. All of the other cars that I have driven have done well in major competitions, just not in my hands.

In my opinion, don't buy an exotic car just to be different. Nobody really cares what you drive if you aren't winning.
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Old 01-19-2004, 03:53 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by gotpez
In my opinion, don't buy an exotic car just to be different. Nobody really cares what you drive if you aren't winning.
I agree.
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Old 01-19-2004, 04:14 PM   #26
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I agree as well. I would never buy a car simply because of looks or because it's different. However there are cars that are a little off the beaten path but are very competitive. The other thing that worried me about the TC3 is how old of a design it is. With just getting back into RC racing I was thinking there would be some benefit to getting one of the cars that is coming out early this year. But from the sounds of it it's improbable that the TC3 will not be competitive anytime soon.

Function will always be far above form and frills on my list of priorities (I drive a WRX afterall ). However I wanted to pose the question simply because I wanted to eliminate as much possibility of second thoughts on my car purchase as I could. Thanks to all those that have added input, I feel much more confident buying the tried and true TC3 now.

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Old 01-19-2004, 05:23 PM   #27
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old = lots of parts support. .... unless it is the discontinued type of old
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Old 01-19-2004, 07:07 PM   #28
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I was more affraid of the kind of old where I buy it and poof 6 months later there's a new improved model
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Old 01-19-2004, 07:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ike
I was more affraid of the kind of old where I buy it and poof 6 months later there's a new improved model
LOL, sounds like Yok... and Serpent.

Yeah its always nice to get a car that the manufacturer intends to keep around for some time. Look at Yokomo, within a year or two they have so many versions of the SD and Serpent with their 705 eclipsed by the 710 almost as soon as it was released.

It always feels good to drive a car you know the manufacturer believes in themselves. If a manufacturer keeps releasing new models, you start to worry about parts support or whether there's something wrong with your car that they had to make a new one.

Incidently, I'd like to ask you ppl what you think of the Tamiya TA04R. I know its been around awhile but I can see that Tamiya intends to keep this around for some time. I might be getting a TA04R very soon so I'd like some "international" opinion on the chassis. Thanks
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Old 01-19-2004, 07:45 PM   #30
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I would not look for Associated to make any type of changes real soon,why change when your car is still winning?The problem with alot of the exotic touring cars is they are put into production before they are fully tested(thats just my opinion)Alot of these cars have a few problems,Alex R2 cuda's like to eat the spur gears(you can fix this "little" problem,but at a cost)at over $300 you should not have to fix anything!The evo 3 likes to munch the ring gear on the front one way(you can also fix this but it's going to cost you also)I still think that all touring cars have problems ,some are just harder to ignore than other's.The biggest problem I had with the TC-3 was when I did make a "driver" error,it cost's..as in broken parts. For stock and 19 turn racing it's just hard to beat the TC-3,and latter on when you want something a little tricker,get a chassis kit from BMI or warpspeed or IRS,their is a ton of aftermarket support for the TC-3 as well.
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