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Old 03-08-2011, 03:47 PM   #601
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Are the droop screws going to be a problem with digging into the chassis? Are there any other "problem" areas I need to be aware of? Thanks, Don
Haven't had any issues with the droop screws myself.

I had issues with the supplied diff screws, broke a couple in the front diff, probably from running a little tight.

hexcrews.com has some higher quality screws that I've been using.

Only issue I have with the car is the diffs, they like to loosen up. Aside from the silly battery holders that is.
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:50 AM   #602
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So far I have enjoyed my jl10e, we run them on a concrete oval with nastruck bodies. They are quick. But here lately I have had problems with my front ball diff. The front wheels are not pulling like they should, causing me to run at half speed. The bolt that goes through the ball diff broke. And know the new one has stripped out. I will try the ones from the website you have listed.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:56 AM   #603
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DForehand99 - Make sure you don't over tighten the diff. I have heard with other companies' diffs, some people will use a a little thread lock on the diff screw.
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:26 AM   #604
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Does anyone know what weight oil is in the shocks as it comes out of the box? Don
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:52 AM   #605
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I don't know, but you can email or call Ofna. Just go to the "contact" page on their website.
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Old 03-22-2011, 10:34 AM   #606
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I will try thread lock also. I have just been getting it tight enough not to slip, but it seems to back out and strip. so hopefully the thread lock will prevent that.
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Old 03-22-2011, 10:56 AM   #607
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When you say not slip, does it mean it doesn't slip at all?
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:52 PM   #608
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Sorry I'm a newbie, I maybe using the wrong words. On the other guys cars at the track you can push the car on the front wheels holding the backend up and the drive shaft turns. When doing the same on mine the drive shaft does not turn, theres no friction at all. When the front diff box is taken apart and I turn the front wheels the gear doesnt turn at all until you turn the back wheels. But if I push in on the cvd arms puttin pressure on the fron diff, and turn the front wheels it while lock and cause the gear to turn. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 03-22-2011, 09:45 PM   #609
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Review the manual for how to set the diff. You want it tight enough not to slip, but not too tight as you'll either burn it or break the diff screw.

Keep in mind most other folks are running their cars with a spool up front (a solid axle, no differential action).
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:10 AM   #610
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Quote:
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Does anyone know what weight oil is in the shocks as it comes out of the box? Don
Should be 30wt front and rear.

A good starting point for circut racing is 60wt front 40wt rear.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:51 AM   #611
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What does the spool eliminate the slippage allowing more power to the front? where are you guys finding the spools at?
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Old 03-23-2011, 02:57 PM   #612
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Some folks swear by the spool, feel it gives them more dig out of corners.

Me, I tend to swear at the spool. I simply drive better with a diff (on my TC5 that is). But then, I ain't no fast guy either.

For say VTA, diff is fine.
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:49 PM   #613
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I know some associated parts transfer over to the jl10, will a solid front axles from one of the TC's fit? if so which would be closer to fitting? Thanks
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:21 AM   #614
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The Spool from the 1/12 ABC car works in the JL10e.
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:25 PM   #615
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Is a 5.5 novak motor too much for this car? I read through the thread (all 41 pages!) and it seems everybody is running lower kv. I wont be racing the car, I just want something different to bash with. I'm curious about the 5.5 because I have one I'm not using right now. I have never run on-road before so sorry if its a dumb question.
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