Ofna JL-10 E

Old 02-02-2011, 08:44 PM
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nitrohouse has the CNC knuckles for $34
http://www.nitrohouse.com/Car-Hop-Up...duct_info.html

There are also aluminum C-hubs, CVDs, hub carriers, and a-arms.
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:35 AM
  #587  
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Originally Posted by crazy_kanaka View Post
I'm wondering if anyone's found aluminum steering knuckles that work in this car?

A few members of our club have had the stock plastic ones fall right out on some pretty minor collisions. I noticed that the kingpin screws don't have much thread into the plastic knuckles, and that's where the failure point is. You can't put longer screws because it would hit the axle.

I don't race this car, but I do drift it. It's a fabulous drifter, with the abc spool in the rear and abc oneway in the front. Even I've had the steering knuckles strip out on light rubbing against the track walls.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
You can also use longer screws. That will help.
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:06 AM
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I've got a bunch of spare knuckles, but I did add the aluminum ones to my "wish list."

Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
Can anyone tell me where the stock springs are in relation to the springs in kits OFN38469 and OFN38490?
And here's a bump for the above question.
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Old 02-03-2011, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kael View Post
Nitrohouse has them:



That said, I've had zero issues with the stock knuckles, had the car for two years now running all winter.

My boy just ran it last weekend in VTA and I guarantee he was not gentle.
Thanks.

Must be a hit or miss sort of thing. Our club has 5 of these that race in our local rcgt and 2 of them have had this problem occur. My car, which I don't race (only drift), have also had this issue. We've tried switching to longer screws on new plastic knuckles but it just happens again and again. I think that the plastic simply can't hold the fine thread of the 3m screw. One of our guys have switched out to the coarse threaded screw, equivalent to HPI's stock screws used on the sprint 2, with success so far. As for me, I'd rather just pickup the AL knuckles and be done with it.

Thanks again.
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
And here's a bump for the above question.
I have the OFN38490 part you listed. Purchased it from nitrohouse.com
It came with a sheet that lists the following rates:
Blue: 17.0 lbs/inch
Red: 19.5 lbs/inch
Copper: 25.0 lbs/inch
Purple: 30.0 lbs/inch
Yellow: 35.0 lbs/inch
White 40.0 lbs/inch

The stock springs (black springs in my kit) feel like they fall in between the red and copper.
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Old 02-05-2011, 02:43 PM
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Hey, I picked up a JL10e for lots bashing but I was wondering about a body. Will a pre-cut hpi body fit. If not is there a post mod that would make it work? Anyone try a ford gt body on this chassis?
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Old 02-05-2011, 02:53 PM
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You need a 200mm body. I run the HPI Ford GT, not pre-painted, and fits. The front tires are right to the outer edge of the body.
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MD View Post
You need a 200mm body. I run the HPI Ford GT, not pre-painted, and fits. The front tires are right to the outer edge of the body.
Well, trying to fit this body tonight. Can't seem to get the body to sit low enough on the chassis, rides to high. I have the stops on the lowest settings.
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by macavant View Post
I have the OFN38490 part you listed. Purchased it from nitrohouse.com
It came with a sheet that lists the following rates:
Blue: 17.0 lbs/inch
Red: 19.5 lbs/inch
Copper: 25.0 lbs/inch
Purple: 30.0 lbs/inch
Yellow: 35.0 lbs/inch
White 40.0 lbs/inch

The stock springs (black springs in my kit) feel like they fall in between the red and copper.
Thanks! This helps a lot! Next question is, has anyone come up with a way to add some rear toe-in? I realized that all the a-arm blocks I have only allow adjustment for anti-squat.
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:23 PM
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Anybody running vta with this chassis? Looking to see which bodies fit good.
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Old 02-12-2011, 08:51 PM
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Yes, HPI 68 Camaro fits fine.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
Thanks! This helps a lot! Next question is, has anyone come up with a way to add some rear toe-in? I realized that all the a-arm blocks I have only allow adjustment for anti-squat.
here's what I found over the weekend. When I run +3 mm offset wheels up front and +6 mm offset wheels in back I've got crazy off-throttle oversteer. Going to zero offset wheels (like the box-stock Ho-Bao wheels) the car was MUCH more controllable.

Still, I do have an Associated part that I am modifying to fit and will hopefully give me 1 - 1.5 toe-in. I'll post pics of this and report on handling characteristics.
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Old 02-22-2011, 09:36 AM
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Well, my mod resulted in maybe 0.5 of rear toe in, if that. I haven't had a chance to race it, but I imagine it will help some.
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:18 PM
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I ended up making my own rear block that resulted in 1 per side. And it worked AWESOME! Just need to work on my consistency. Now that I can actually drive this thing I might bump up a tooth on my pinion.
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:17 PM
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Just got my JL-10e yesterday, very nice car for $121.40! So far I've replaced the 82T spur with a 70T. (VTA car) I replaced the stock battery holders with Associated pieces. I also replaced the screw pins with standard suspension pins held in place via 3mm set screws. Are the droop screws going to be a problem with digging into the chassis? Are there any other "problem" areas I need to be aware of? Thanks, Don
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