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Old 12-27-2010, 12:41 PM   #571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleshgearf150 View Post
Im going to be running mostly at West Coast RC Raceway. Where should I start out with gearing this car???? Essentially, I would like to know what pinion you think I should start with.... Any help would be appreciated as FDR and all that are rather foreign to me. Ive always been huge into electric offroad but some of this on road stuff seems like french. Thanks in advance!
If you find out the FDR what others in your class are running, you can come up with similar gearing to match (provided they are running similar motor/ESC setups). The spec class I'm running seems to be pretty cut and dry since everyone runs the same 27T motor and inexpensive ESC. Many of the guys are comfortable with FDRs between 4.8 and 5.2 at our track. To determine this, you need the internal DR of the JL10e (which is 2.50) and the number of teeth on your spur and pinion. I am running a 69T spur and 35T pinion, so the math works like this:
(69/35)*2.50 = 4.93 FDR
I'm sure for your EZrun setup the FDR will be numerically much higher, but as macavant pointed out an IR temp gun is an excellent tuning tool.
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:14 PM   #572
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Hey, This is the first place I have found any signifigant information about the jl10e.
I know nothing about on-road RC, I have been bashing off-road for 2 years now, and from what I have seen/read, this is the car for me.

I want to expand, and get an on-road RC, so I have been looking for something inexpensive (college is tough on my wallet), so I found the jl10e! I found it for $118 with free shipping, pretty good in my book!

I am planning on buying one of these cars as just a general basher, I probably will not end up racing it any time soon, but I just wanna have fun with it! The only thing is the only 2 motors I have is a 12T Titan and accompanying XL5 out of my Traxxas Slash, and a 4200Kv Novak Ballistic BL setup that is in my Slash right now. (I have a few random servos, and the old TQ AM radio from my Slash that will be going in)

I would be willing to kick my Slash back brushed to run BL in this car, but I wanna start out brushed, but I have no idea what size pinion I should use. (and I want to stay 48p due to the fact I will be in generally sandy, dirty environments... I read the entirety of this thread lol)
would a 12T be too, i don't even know... what would it be too much of? not enough of?

I will also be modifying the battery holder thingy to accept my 7-cell hump pack NiMh's (Because I have 4 of them and don't feel like buying all new batts for the car) if that helps with pinion decision or not... (and I don't care much about balance, I'm not racing, or doing anything fancy with the car, and WOO more power than a 6-cell!)

and just to cover all the bases, what pinion would work with the brushless? I just simply have no idea.Probably something big right? since people usually run really low turn/high Kv brushless motors?

Thanks you guys! Can't wait to get this car! Looks like alot of fun!

I know the best way to figure out gearing is by experimentation, but I just don't have the money, and a 12T in a TC is something that I don't hear of often haha

if the 12T just WILL NOT work, then what turn motor would I be looking at? I have seen alot in the 20-26 range.
Are there any particularly inexpensive motors that are decent? I might be willing to shovel out another $20-30 for a decent motor.

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Old 01-11-2011, 09:33 AM   #573
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When I first received my JL - I ran a 17T and then a 13T brushed motor. My kit came with a pinion, and I used that with the brushed motors. With the stock battery holders, you can fit a 7-cell hump pack - but not a 7-cell stick (my Slash came with one - too long). I did have to trim the stock battery hold down a bit - just to clear the hump cell (nothing major). The car is a good buy for the money.

The only thing about the Titan motor - it's a 550 type. You might have to get creative on mounting the esc and receiver. I say run it with your current setup and have fun with it.
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Old 01-11-2011, 03:40 PM   #574
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I have a few worn-out 48P pinions from my Slash for testing purposes, but they will all probably be too small.
I guess I could just try the one that comes with it, and then see what happens. Pinions aren't really that expensive anyway.

Yeah, I figured it would be tight, since the XL5 is pretty big anyways. The 550 is longer I assume, so is that little cutout in the chassis going to be long enough?
I actually plan on building a custom L-bracket mount to bolt my ESC's sideways. (or maybe I will just slap it on the upper chassis) I built a metal plate mount for my Havoc 3s that fits the mounting area on the Slash, but I can't bolt to the bottom because then I'd have huge bolts dragging under my car! haha. I don't want to stick them down with tape yet, because I might want to switch between the, depending on the weather. I will stick down the L bracket with gratuitous amounts of servo tape, then everything should be fine.

I really can't wait to buy this car!
and with the stock wheels, is it 190mm? Thats what I remember seeing.
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:52 PM   #575
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With 0 degree offset wheels (like the ones in the kit) the car comes out to 195mm. With thinner hex hubs, 24mm width wheels with 0 offset - you might be able to squeeze it in a 190mm body. HPI makes a good variety of 200mm bodies, I'm pretty sure you can find one that you like.

If you want - I can take a picture of the motor mount / ESC area next to a ruler (and post it) to get an idea on how much space you're working with for clearance.
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:11 AM   #576
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That would actually be great. It would sure help alot!

And thats good news about the body width, because I couldn't find any 190mm bodies that I liked!

I might be ordering the car this afternoon! AAAH the anticipaton
and although I won't be driving it anytime soon because of the foot and a half of snow we just got last night, I still wanna get it ASAP! Every time I have wanted an RC car, and waited, I always end up not getting it against my will ... So I wanna secure this buy haha

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Old 01-13-2011, 01:47 AM   #577
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A couple of pics w/i a ruler for reference:





I let my brother drive the JL - he liked it so much he ordered one. A.Main hobbies has the JL10 in stock for $114.99.
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:53 PM   #578
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Thats some pretty good news!
I got scared when I saw your low profile servo, but then I realized that the XL5 is short in the direction that everything fits, so it will just BARELY fit! Great news for me haha.

my dad convinced me to wait until the spring to buy it, but I will probably just wait until I go back to college where he has slightly less power over my decisions, and just buy it asap... Even though I can't drive it until all the snow melts/salt washes away, the first thing I do with a new RC is take it apart and put it back together! And it will be fun to look at

I found it on another RC site for $118 with FREE shipping, so thats the lowest price I have found.

I got my new titan in the mail today
and I found a brand new 23T pinion that originally came as a "speed gear" from my Slash. It will be good for experimenting.
I also found a BMW M3 body for $16, so I guess I will have a BMW M3... Its not a bad thing, my M3 in Forza 3 kicked serious butt!

EDIT: and how are those front body mounts? Are they only supported from that small triangle with a single screw in it on the front gearbox? That seems improbable. And is that real CF?
I build big 150lb robots, and my experiences with CF include a lot of splintering and shattering...People think it is indestructible, but it is not! I could imagine it being a bit "stronger" on this scale, but you never know.
Does that mount hold up in rollovers? Or is this car improbable to roll... I don't have much experience with TC's, but I don't think I have ever seen one traction roll (many from just going too fast or hitting something haha) My Slash spends more time on its roof than its wheels...
Have you ever rolled this car?
Looks nice by the way

If mine breaks....... thats what 1/8 7075 aluminum plates are for! I love CNC machines <3

EDIT: Ugh, I hate it when this happens... I just found a used Tamiya TB02 with 4-tec tires, and an appearently brand new Traxxas VXL ESC and vilenion motor in it for $125 shipped... If that is in fact correct and the VXL is like new, I may just buy that, have an "okay" car as my first on-road (not like I care, as long as it is made for flat surfaces), slap that VLX in my Slash, and give the TB02 the Novak system my Slash has... but the jl10e jst looks so niiiiiceeeeee :|
the TB02 will win if the VXL is good.

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Old 01-14-2011, 01:38 AM   #579
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Ive been out of the r.c. car scene for so long that all the electronics have changed. Ive been doing my research and came across this affordable onroad car and after reading all the positive comments about it i can not wait to get one of my own!! I forgot that most of the skill is based on driver coordination. Good Thread!
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:24 AM   #580
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Ugh... I still need to generate more posts so I can put up some pics!

I ran my first spec race last weekend with my JL10e and I tell ya, it's pretty competitive the way I've got it set up now (stock springs, 60wt oil all around, 1 camber all around, zero toe in the front, as-received toe in the rear, slightly lower ride height in the rear). I cleaned up the chassis and installed AE RC10 battery cups that I Dremeled up. The class I'm running required treaded rubber tires and I'm using some from HPI. I mounted them on 6mm offset rear and 3mm offset front tires and the 200mm HPI BMW M3 GTR body fits on there awesome.

After 12 years out of the hobby, I forgot how important having spare parts are. I basically ordered multiple front end suspension replacement parts after breaking a C-carrier, rear suspension arm, stripping out the front hubs and chasing front dogbones through the race day. LOL. The Ofna CVA's are HIGHLY recommended.

Another thing to consider are replacement bearings. Since I bought my JL10e used, it was already well-broken in and a couple of the main driveshaft bearings fit pretty loose. On the track you can actually hear the drivetrain slop clanging around! HA!
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:09 AM   #581
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Since I can't reference another URL for pics, here are some I attached.
Attached Thumbnails
Ofna JL-10 E-img_4448modified.jpg   Ofna JL-10 E-img_4456modified.jpg   Ofna JL-10 E-img_4465modified.jpg  
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:42 AM   #582
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Rodarbal - Sweet JL. Makes me excited to get mine back out. We only run in the sun around here, and that is only a few months in the Pacific Northwest.
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:44 PM   #583
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Thanks S!

Well, I lied. My setup is NOT competitive on the asphalt we run on. Waaaay too loosey goosey. I've got a spring set on order, but for this weekend I'm going to drop down in oil weight to 40 front, 30 rear and see how that helps.

Can anyone tell me where the stock springs are in relation to the springs in kits OFN38469 and OFN38490?
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:31 PM   #584
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I'm wondering if anyone's found aluminum steering knuckles that work in this car?

A few members of our club have had the stock plastic ones fall right out on some pretty minor collisions. I noticed that the kingpin screws don't have much thread into the plastic knuckles, and that's where the failure point is. You can't put longer screws because it would hit the axle.

I don't race this car, but I do drift it. It's a fabulous drifter, with the abc spool in the rear and abc oneway in the front. Even I've had the steering knuckles strip out on light rubbing against the track walls.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:42 PM   #585
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Nitrohouse has them:

http://www.nitrohouse.com/Car-Hop-Up...duct_info.html

That said, I've had zero issues with the stock knuckles, had the car for two years now running all winter.

My boy just ran it last weekend in VTA and I guarantee he was not gentle.
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