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Old 03-15-2010, 10:37 PM   #421
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hey everyone, just thought id see if there was any interest in hinge pin holders that would pull the arms in 2.5mm each side to bring the car to a legal width for roar or other bigger races that tech car width. i should have the plastic prototypes done this weekend and if they work well will send them off to my machinist to have them cut out of aluminum. have no clue what the price will be but im sure it would be along the lines of most aluminum option parts.

just thought id ask.
Let us know how it works out, I'll definitely get one.
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:47 AM   #422
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Just got one of these just for some parking lot play. I got tired of looking for a clean TC3 that people wanted far too much money for.

Still waiting on my Castle Mamba Pro\5700Kv, but I really don't like the battery box. It looks difficult to get a battery in\out.

Are there any corrections to this? I might just use my screwdriver to pop the 2 top plates on\off for the time being.
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:01 AM   #423
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The battery box does indeed suck. I'm trying to find the right parts to make a simple diagonal top battery brace with clips.
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:06 AM   #424
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The battery box does indeed suck. I'm trying to find the right parts to make a simple diagonal top battery brace with clips.
Even some old school RC10 black battery boxes might fit the bill for my needs.

Part #6334

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Old 03-17-2010, 09:35 AM   #425
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Atleast for me i never found them to be an issue i just unscrew 2 outside top plate screws and rotate them out of the way and pull the batt up and out. only takes an extra 30sec but i must say i like those other battery box ends posted above.
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:48 AM   #426
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Even some old school RC10 black battery boxes might fit the bill for my needs.

Part #6334
Wow very nice....makes you wonder what Ofna was thinking when they designed their battery box.
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:55 AM   #427
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Wow very nice....makes you wonder what Ofna was thinking when they designed their battery box.
I kinda think they just used parts from a different kit and adapted.

DC, I'd be interested in narrowing the car...please keep us posted!
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:49 AM   #428
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Even some old school RC10 black battery boxes might fit the bill for my needs.

Part #6334

Buddy used these, direct fit!

For the stock holders, I replaced the phillips screws with 12mm setscrews and thumbscrew nuts to hold the braces. Easier than using a screwdriver.
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Old 03-19-2010, 01:38 PM   #429
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Do they still sell that battery boy from associated? or it has to be special order, cause the battery box ofna made is not very good.
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Old 03-22-2010, 04:35 PM   #430
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Do they still sell that battery boy from associated? or it has to be special order, cause the battery box ofna made is not very good.
Stormer has them. Search by part number.
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Old 03-22-2010, 04:52 PM   #431
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Funny, I had 1/2 that battery box in a drawer. I bought one a long time ago to fix my kids JRX - Pro. I should try it on one side to see if it improves at all
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:42 PM   #432
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Hey guys I've installed the RC10 battery tray. Here are some pics...notice I trimmed a lot of the plastic from the tray off...much leaner and less bulky looking. It's also much lighter than the stock holder so now I can use a larger capacity LiPo battery and not affect the weight balance.





I've found that you could actually use the special screws with the snap pins from the RC10 holder on the stock battery holder. What you'd need to do in order to use the stock straps/clamps is make one of the holes larger to fit the snap pin screws through. I was going to do this but I didn't have a drill handy and also it was just faster to use the RC10 tray instead of trying to retrofit the stock one with screws from the RC10 tray kit.

Oh btw awhile back I stupidly posted about not having any motor screws to install a motor included in my kit, well yesterday I finally found them inside of the bag with the antenna tube.
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:38 AM   #433
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Hi guys, well I've made my decision to get this car.
I'll be running in parking lots so I'm going with the 48 pitch spurs since I read it's more forgiving of small rocks...

Anyone care to give me some gearing advise?, since I don't have a local hobby shop I'd really like to get everything I need placed with the order

This will be for a 19T motor, so I'm wondering what pinion size and spur should I try... is the stock spur 48p?

Read somewhere in this thread that a few spurs (some other brand) don't fit so good... so which are the good ones?
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Old 03-30-2010, 07:57 PM   #434
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Well sorry guys doesnt look like the aftermarket hinge pin holders to bring the car to 190mm will work. the screws holding the holders to the chassis interfere with where the hinge pins need to go and it would take re drilling the chassis to make a set work. still have a few other ideas in the works, including using tamiya short reversible arm set, looks like its a direct fit and are noticebly shorter.
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Old 03-30-2010, 08:13 PM   #435
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Originally Posted by Rufus2000 View Post
Hi guys, well I've made my decision to get this car.
I'll be running in parking lots so I'm going with the 48 pitch spurs since I read it's more forgiving of small rocks...

Anyone care to give me some gearing advise?, since I don't have a local hobby shop I'd really like to get everything I need placed with the order

This will be for a 19T motor, so I'm wondering what pinion size and spur should I try... is the stock spur 48p?

Read somewhere in this thread that a few spurs (some other brand) don't fit so good... so which are the good ones?
seeing as the jl10 has the same internal ratio as the tc4 my old setup sheets should give a close starting point,

With a checkpoint money 19t brushed motor on a mid sized track i ran a 30t pinion and a 72t spur, start there but have a number on pinions on hand and keep an eye on motor temps, on big tracks i geared 32/33t pinion 72t spur and and small tracks i geared 27/27t pinion, it will also be dependent on which brand 19t you go with
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