Ofna JL-10 E

Old 12-11-2009, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RyeRey521 View Post
sucked up into his car and stuck there lol.... All I did to fix that was took those gates off, and took 4 zip-ties and put 2 of them together and just wrapped it through the hole and kept the clips on the other side.. now if the battery shifts the zipties will have more give then the "gates".... also try and put some foam or something below your battery to have it fit more snuggly in the box vertically... and tighten the pieces on top...
That's what I've done, will try tonight. In addition, I flipped the battery holders upside down as the other way wasn't very tight (still using NiMHs).
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Old 12-14-2009, 02:40 PM
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Default Springs and things

Question:

There are two spring kits offered by Ofna that I can see...also single pairs. Anybody know the approx rates of these springs?

I see:

p/n 38469-3 pairs of springs, and

p/n 38490-6 pairs of springs

They look an awful lot like the Tamiya springs on the cards and all. Anybody know?

Thanks
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:24 PM
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If anyone is looking for jl10e fully set up to win in VTA I am looking to sell mine minus my lipo.... Kit, tires, body, Novak 21.5 system, and a full supply of any spares you yould need all from nitrohouse.... I have killed the field the past 5 weeks and getting bored looking to get into 17.5 rubber TC.... Figured it would be easier to sell as a full almost rtr.... pm me or email [email protected].. pics and price upon request...
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:51 AM
  #334  
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Default Sway Bar

Does any one run a swaybar on these?
If so where can I find one? What parts do I need?
Link whould be very helpfull

Thanks in advance
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Old 12-15-2009, 10:21 PM
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Default gearing

Originally Posted by ckaspar View Post
That is certainly helpful. Thank you. What gearing are you running cuz I have no top end at all with stock gearing and the I got a 69 Spur and a 34 Pinion and was still losing about 1/2 seconds on the straight. I would get pulled on the straight by everyone. Should I convert it to 64 pitch gearing?
Your final ratio should be between 3.74 and 4.00 with a 17.5 brushless
that boils don to a 73/47 or 88/55.

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Old 12-15-2009, 11:33 PM
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I understand these are bigger than 190mm for bodies. Did this effect anything regarding the KO Propo race this past weekend or were RCGT cars not tech'd for wheelbase, length, width, etc?
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Old 12-16-2009, 08:01 AM
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For RCGT the max width is 200mm. The JL10 passed inspection.
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:53 PM
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so what happens if someone wants to race this in a touring stock class where 190mm is enforced?
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:58 PM
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Plain and simple.... You can't... I have this car as my VTA but also know I would never use it in our touring class... this car is great for the bang for your buck but I have threw my 17.5 setup in it and it performed nothing like the other chassis.... stick to rcgt or vta where the other cars have less of an advantage...
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Old 12-16-2009, 10:49 PM
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well joe mac has done well in the ofna in stock sedan. too bad a 190mm conversion kit isn't available for this car.
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Old 12-29-2009, 10:22 AM
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If anyone is interested..... JL10E For Sale w/Spares for cheap....
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Old 12-29-2009, 02:17 PM
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Anyone managed to get the JL10e down to 190mm? Thought a person or two had mentioned sanding down the hexes might work.
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Old 12-29-2009, 03:10 PM
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I had tried that but you can only go so far because the wheels need the full lenght of the hexs to grip good and pluss you would need to sand down your rims as well because you could run no hexs at all but still be limited to what your rims allow... I had placed the hexs into the rims themself and sanded them even with the back of the rims and was no where near 190....
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Old 12-29-2009, 03:33 PM
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Try pulling the hexes and mounting the rims with the drive pins only in place. Wheels will be a little floppy, but this will be the narrowest you can go. If you are still not at 190mm, then the mods you will need to get to 190 will be pretty extensive.

I think the stock plastic hexes are about 6mm thick? The question is do you have enough "meat" on the outside face of the hexes to lose 2.5mm PER SIDE before you grind all the way to the drive pin slot in the back face of the hex. Even at that, there might be other issues with clearance with the rim on the hub side.
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Old 12-29-2009, 03:54 PM
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As I had stated I already tried this and the rims hitting the hubs was the problem you can only go so far and it is not far enough the extra length is in the arms and I was not going to try and put all my effort into making an ok car work in rubber touring... More of a hassle then reward...
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