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Old 01-08-2010, 01:39 PM   #301
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question for you Steve, if you have a motor that is a sensored motor and needs a push start to go, but another motor with the same ESC and sensor wire goes fine, what could cause that issue. this same motor works fine though on a different brand ESC?
It definately sounds like it could either be a sensor issue or a rotor issue.

If you have the ability to change the sensor assembly I would do that... and maybe looking at swapping rotors might help as well.
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:42 PM   #302
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thanks steve. I sent this back and the owner said it works fine on his stuff.

One other thing, if your motor is making a "whirring" sound, and when in use just sort of drops of and stops working. What is that? I had a motor recently do that to me, worked great then all of a sudden made the whirring sound and then just ran to a slow crawl and stopped.
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:48 PM   #303
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thanks steve. I sent this back and the owner said it works fine on his stuff.

One other thing, if your motor is making a "whirring" sound, and when in use just sort of drops of and stops working. What is that? I had a motor recently do that to me, worked great then all of a sudden made the whirring sound and then just ran to a slow crawl and stopped.
It could be a magnet slipped off a rotor shaft or something. Hard to say.

If you have more questions shoot them to [email protected] and we'll get to them when we can!

I have to attend to some other things and won't be back on this thread for a while!
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:49 PM   #304
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thanks again!
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:51 PM   #305
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The shims are always placed on the rotor shaft on the pinion side.
thanks dude apologies for being impatient NovakTwo
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:10 PM   #306
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Default maintennance

Ive recently purchased a novak ballistic 17.5 due to the fact my ss pro motor went out after about 6 months of racing. I attempted to take the ss motor apart and do a rebuild but the impression im getting after reading this thread is, they arent rebuildable, like the ballistics are. Do I just send this motor in to novak for a rebuild? Also, how much maintennance do these motors require? Should I take it apart and clean it after each race day? Do certain parts require special cleaning or attention? I never removed the ss motor from the car which is probably why it only lasted six months.
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Old 01-09-2010, 08:11 AM   #307
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Brushless motors do not require much maintenance, but the dust should be cleaned off periodically. Our motors are pretty sealed (no large holes in the can); however, some dust and moisture can get inside. The bearings should also be oiled occasionally.

How to clean a Brushless Motor

You can return your motor to us for replacement or exchange:

Novak Replacement/Exchange Service Option Program

We also have factory-remanufactured SS Pro motors in our store:

Factory Remanufactured SS Pro Motors

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leroifittipalde View Post
Ive recently purchased a novak ballistic 17.5 due to the fact my ss pro motor went out after about 6 months of racing. I attempted to take the ss motor apart and do a rebuild but the impression im getting after reading this thread is, they arent rebuildable, like the ballistics are.

Do I just send this motor in to novak for a rebuild? Also, how much maintennance do these motors require? Should I take it apart and clean it after each race day? Do certain parts require special cleaning or attention? I never removed the ss motor from the car which is probably why it only lasted six months.
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Old 01-13-2010, 12:26 AM   #308
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Originally Posted by NovakTwo View Post
Brushless motors do not require much maintenance, but the dust should be cleaned off periodically. Our motors are pretty sealed (no large holes in the can); however, some dust and moisture can get inside. The bearings should also be oiled occasionally.

How to clean a Brushless Motor

You can return your motor to us for replacement or exchange:

Novak Replacement/Exchange Service Option Program

We also have factory-remanufactured SS Pro motors in our store:

Factory Remanufactured SS Pro Motors
Thanks for the info. Ive removed the endbell and examined/cleaned the motor, rotor and bearings, everything appears to be normal. Ill reassemble and check it again. If it still does nothing when connected, Ill send it in to Novak. On a more positive note Ive had a chance to run the NEW ballistic motor up and own the street a few times and it feels great!! Cant wait to test it out at the track!
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:53 PM   #309
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nvm
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:16 AM   #310
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Hello NovakTwo, I was wondering if i order a 21.5 stator part number NOVS6621, how will i know if its a spec one with green rubber bit or a crawler one with black?

as the place where i ordered one from doesnt have a picture.

And on the novak website the crawler 21.5 stator and the spec 21.5 stator are the same part numbers????


of course i am hoping its the green one so i dont get stung for cheating in 21.5 spec racing.

Last edited by LOSI123; 02-12-2010 at 05:32 AM.
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Old 02-12-2010, 11:39 AM   #311
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Hello NovakTwo, I was wondering if i order a 21.5 stator part number NOVS6621, how will i know if its a spec one with green rubber bit or a crawler one with black?

as the place where i ordered one from doesnt have a picture.

And on the novak website the crawler 21.5 stator and the spec 21.5 stator are the same part numbers????
of course i am hoping its the green one so i dont get stung for cheating in 21.5 spec racing.
I will check for you; however, while we have adopted the green color to designate 21.5, the motor is not officially approved as a ROAR motor, so no color is required.

Order the stator from this "spec" category:

Ballistic Spec Hand-Wound Stators
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Old 02-12-2010, 11:51 AM   #312
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One other thing, if your motor is making a "whirring" sound, and when in use just sort of drops of and stops working. What is that? I had a motor recently do that to me, worked great then all of a sudden made the whirring sound and then just ran to a slow crawl and stopped.
I don't know if you solved this yet, but my Tekin Redline was doing the exact same thing you described. I took it apart, blew it out with compressed air, oiled the bearings, and re-assembled. Have not had a problem since.
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:01 PM   #313
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for the motor there was some problem with it, dont' recall the specifics but Tekin replaced the motor.
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Old 02-13-2010, 08:16 AM   #314
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Could someone tell me how the ballistic 17.5 motor needs to be geared compared to a duo2 17.5.
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:37 AM   #315
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Preface: I hate posting questions that might bring in the trolls for "bashing", but maybe that won't happen this time...?

I've been running Novak motors for a LONG time -- dating back to the original bonded rotor 13.5's, and have had great success... However, I have one motor, a 13.5 Ballistic that is just not what it should be... I have SSPro13.5's, and even upgraded 13.5 EX motors (changed to sintered rotor, etc.) that out perform this one by a significant amount. I also have another Ballistic 13.5 that runs great, so it is something about this motor... It's not "defective", it just runs "soft" -- lacking punch, and lacking top end... If I gear down to get punch, there is just no top end -- if I try to gear up to get top end, there is no bottom end. The motor also runs about 20-30 degrees F. hotter than other motors with the same gearing in the same vehicle...?

My initial guess is that the rotor is weak...? I bought this motor as a "spare", and by the time I used it enough to decide it was the motor that was the source of lost performance, the warranty was expired, so I want to try to figure out what I can do to get it running like it should...

Any CONSTRUCTIVE suggestions..?
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