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Old 11-30-2010, 09:42 AM   #1156
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Originally Posted by Lohan View Post
I was racing tonight with 518 software, as I have always done. I would drive for a short time, and then the car would go about a 3rd slower. If stopped and switched off then back on it was ok. Of my four runs tonight, I only had one fast run.

Someone suggested I re-install the firmware, can it be something else. BTW i used a new battery pack, and the motor did not get hot.
This is caused by the ESC switching to sensorless mode. Check the sensor cable and clean the sensor out within the motor.

It can also be caused by too much overall timing. If the sensor and cable look okay, get rid of any static timing on the motor (if you have any) and reduce the ESC timing.
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Old 11-30-2010, 10:01 AM   #1157
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Did anybody burst cap after swith on 120a 2.1? After I cut off the cap. Work as usual but less punch. Is a good idea to put in 16v 5600 uf for a 180feet straight?
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Old 11-30-2010, 10:19 AM   #1158
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Originally Posted by Lohan View Post
I was racing tonight with 518 software, as I have always done. I would drive for a short time, and then the car would go about a 3rd slower. If stopped and switched off then back on it was ok. Of my four runs tonight, I only had one fast run.

Someone suggested I re-install the firmware, can it be something else. BTW i used a new battery pack, and the motor did not get hot.
Do the above suggestions by Daleburr then if the problem still exist, set your voltage cut off to a lower value like 3.0v. My friend had the same problem as you on his Xtreme stock esc until someone suggested to lower the voltage cut off value. Now the esc is running fine no problem at all.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:26 AM   #1159
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Originally Posted by BCbud View Post
Good day!

I tryed serching but couldn't find what the differance is between the xerun-120a-sd-v2.0 and the xerun-120-sd-v2.1.

Thanks
I have been reading through 60+ pages to find the answer to this question. It looks like it was passed over.

Anyone know the difference? My apologizes if I missed it, thanks

edit: question answered in the last few pages. smaller capacitor, other small changes. But nothing major!
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Last edited by Rockit RC; 12-09-2010 at 03:14 PM. Reason: Answered my own question!
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:35 AM   #1160
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Originally Posted by Rockit RC View Post
I have been reading through 60+ pages to find the answer to this question. It looks like it was passed over.

Anyone know the difference? My apologizes if I missed it, thanks

edit: question answered in the last few pages. smaller capacitor, other small changes. But nothing major!
yeah and some mention of different mosfets used on the 2.1. Hope a Hobbywing rep can clear this up for us.
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:35 PM   #1161
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
This is caused by the ESC switching to sensorless mode. Check the sensor cable and clean the sensor out within the motor.

It can also be caused by too much overall timing. If the sensor and cable look okay, get rid of any static timing on the motor (if you have any) and reduce the ESC timing.
Hi Daleburr

In the words of spock 'that sounds logical jim' I am gonna try what you said, especially given that the problems came about when I tried to 'max out' the speedo settings - I don't have timing on the motor

BTW anyone here tried a corally red, and what are the settings they have had?

Lohan
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Old 12-13-2010, 12:37 PM   #1162
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please could someone suggest a good motor as i keep killing lrp x 12's because of the amount of timing the motors have even when you put the -10 degree plug in. running 17.5 and 13.5 stock. tried the factory settings on the speedo and the motor came off at 170 degrees c.
Now that's 1 dead motor
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:00 PM   #1163
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Originally Posted by millbank View Post
please could someone suggest a good motor as i keep killing lrp x 12's because of the amount of timing the motors have even when you put the -10 degree plug in. running 17.5 and 13.5 stock. tried the factory settings on the speedo and the motor came off at 170 degrees c.
Now that's 1 dead motor
Have u tried Speed Passion V3 motors? I have problems when 2.0 Speedy (with any firmware with timing) working with X12 motors too, including extreme motors temperature, very high speedy temperature and even sudden stall when I try to accelerate hard out of corners. I find that when I run them with old firmware or even unplug the sensor wire, the problems are solved. Then I tried to run 2.0 Speedy with everythings set to max with SP V3 13.5 motor turned to max mechanical timing on my FWD touring car, the motor is hot (about 90 degree, not too hot when compared to X12), but it work fine for 60 packs up to now
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Old 12-18-2010, 10:52 PM   #1164
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for the esc with dynamic timing (without supercharge/turbo timing)... let say the motor rpm limit is about at 8000rpm on load... and max esc timing is 20deg (motor timing is 0deg) ...
1. is that mean at max rpm/8000rpm will be at max timing/20deg (same with max speed i guess)...?
2. if the throttle at 40%, is the timing introduced to the motor at 8deg...?
3. same with no2 Q, if throttle trigger hard from 0% - 100%... is max timing is introduced at low rpm...?
4. max speed is max rpm... is max speed is about limit of current (max) or timing at max...?
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Old 12-19-2010, 04:06 AM   #1165
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So , everybody can tell me turnigy 2in1 program box will work correct with Xerun v2.0 120A esc, or I need to bye original HW program box?
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Old 12-28-2010, 05:07 AM   #1166
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Help!

my extreme stock is going into fail-safe mode when its plugged into the receiver, or when the car comes to a sharp halt on the track.

If I turn the car on with the receiver lead unplugged, the lights on the ESC come on and the esc fan powers up. If I then plug the lead into the receiver, the power to the fan shuts off and a orange/red solid light comes on and there is no response. However, if I "carefully" slide the receiver plug in - the ESC works correctly and the fan does not stop and I ahve power. However if the car then takes a knock or a sharp movement, the ESC looses all power again and goes into the mode above and will not work until I unplug it.

What could this be?
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Old 12-28-2010, 05:11 AM   #1167
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Help!

my extreme stock is going into fail-safe mode when its plugged into the receiver, or when the car comes to a sharp halt on the track.

If I turn the car on with the receiver lead unplugged, the lights on the ESC come on and the esc fan powers up. If I then plug the lead into the receiver, the power to the fan shuts off and a orange/red solid light comes on and there is no response. However, if I "carefully" slide the receiver plug in - the ESC works correctly and the fan does not stop and I ahve power. However if the car then takes a knock or a sharp movement, the ESC looses all power again and goes into the mode above and will not work until I unplug it.

What could this be?
could be your receiver. Yup, troubleshooting costs.

Try a friend's or something, good luck!
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:53 PM   #1168
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
This is caused by the ESC switching to sensorless mode. Check the sensor cable and clean the sensor out within the motor.

It can also be caused by too much overall timing. If the sensor and cable look okay, get rid of any static timing on the motor (if you have any) and reduce the ESC timing.
It would appear that a combination of:
1. moving the armature shims from the sensor side to the pinion side;
2. reduction in timing;
3. reduction in turbo;
4. switching off the voltage cut-off

has eradicated the problem
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:54 PM   #1169
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Do the above suggestions by Daleburr then if the problem still exist, set your voltage cut off to a lower value like 3.0v. My friend had the same problem as you on his Xtreme stock esc until someone suggested to lower the voltage cut off value. Now the esc is running fine no problem at all.
I tried your suggestion alongside daleburrs, and it along with the motor rebuild would appear to have done the trick
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:12 AM   #1170
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has anyone got links to all the older software for the xeruns?
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