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Old 02-18-2010, 06:32 AM   #226
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Originally Posted by Born2Run View Post
He must be running sensorless,thats why he cannot see how to adjust timing on the endbell.But temp 62c with the 107 software and these settings on esc sounds wierd to me.
Running 143 degrees F is a little low but not terribly so, you really don't want to be much above 150 anyway, for the longevity of the motor. We don't know track size or layout, as Brushless are at their most efficient at full revs so if he is running large open track then the temps could be about right, may have a little more headroom for some more gearing but the temp is NOT the be all and end all, as the 'feel' must be right too.

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Originally Posted by TBOTubed View Post
Hi Guys
First off, Thank you to those who have obviously done their homework and are willing to share their learned knowledge with the rest of us.
Most of us in our club traded in our silver cans and Ni-Cads for Hobbywing 60 amp 17.5 combos back when they first came out they were all were all version 1's, we ran a fixed gear ratio. Lipos were in their infancy. IMO it has produced some of the best racing in our club and even still today. Those who trash this product are surely not speaking from experience but from their bottoms.
I was able to install the SP ver. 1.32 software with my LCD box V 1.02. I have 2 questions maybe someone could answer for me. What is the advantage of flashing the box with the SP software?(Tried that but the box was not happy at all) The "Mode's 0-1-2" are only for storing the programmable settings not different software versions, correct?(I had high hopes but...)
Hope HW will produce a high end software for HW users soon
Thanks for you help Joe
Hmmm a few questions there matey.
Are you sure you have the version 1's, as it is generally accepted that V1.0's cannot have their software flashed due to NOT being USB compatible, some people have suggested that the V1.1's COULD be flashed but there is some argument to the truth to this, or indeed, the usefulness of doing so.
On the V2.0's (120SD being Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro and 60SD being the Speed Passion LPF) the benefit in flashing them is to open up the active timing programs which Speed Passion are using with their branded speedo's. With the LCD Box the modes are for storing different setting WITHIN the current installed FirmWare, there can only be ONE firmware installed on the ESC at any time, however you can chop and change between them to your hearts content. The difference with the new SP software is totally noticeable as there is much more punch, massive rip and huge top end with this installed, however you do need to do several things before running the 107 or 110 STOCK softwares.

1) Drop the gearing by about 5 teeth from where you are on 'Standard' software, this is because they eat more power and generally run hotter and have much much more RPM (KV) to play with.

2) EVERY TIME you change the firmware you MUST reset up your Transmitter to the Speedo, you know the button press thing on the switch harness, no one has any idea why but it is a MUST DO job. takes 10 seconds if you are slow lol.

3)When setting up set Throttle and Brake to 100%, once set go to throttle settings and move the end point up to between 103% and 107% depending how wide your neutral point is set on your ESC. This is due to there being a slight 'inaccuracy' in the Speedo's which 'Sometimes' means you do not hit full throttle unless you have made this small change.

4) Feel free to time your motor 'Mechanically' if you feel it is not hitting high enough top end, I run a Fantom Ion Pro 10.5 and run an extra 10 degrees of 'Mechanical' timing as is suits the track upon which I race. this along with the 'Software' timing being at 26.25 degrees gives ample top end, and too much punch so I pull the DDRS down to VI or VII.

look back to Page 7 of this thread for my Screenshots of the Software upgrading process, and some other help. I temp my motors to about 140 degrees F as I cannot afford to burn out motors (HW feel free to send me some Motors please) but the car is easily as quick as the SPX boys and is only beaten on the straight by the Tekin's running 203 Software, but then they are about the quickest out there at this time generally. For a 'free' upgrade you cannot beat the SP 110 and 107 Firmware as it is like buying a $200 speedo all over again without the pain of actually paying for it.

Hope this helps, feel free to flame me if I am wrong here lol.

will repeat the pages here again, but could an admin consider stickying them as several people have requested.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trackster View Post
Hey guys. I'm new to RC racing and just got myself a Xerun 60a sensored ESC for 13.5t short course offroad racing. I have owned a Ezrun 9t/35a combo for drift the past year so I know how to program them all and stuff, but after coming across this thread in my reserach, can someone explain to me what all the talk about 'firmware' is about. There is V1.5 of this and V2.5 of this, basically can someone give me the rundown of all this programming stuff, which I assume is downloaded via USB from a website?

Cheers in advance.
Here is some info, first you need to buy the LCD programming card, ebay has loads just search for "xerun" next do the following.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Hi Just thought I would let you know how helpful I have found this thread, have updated my HW LCD Unit to 1.32 and my 120SD to the 110 software and oh boy it is awesome, there is a defined step in the throttle as it hits max revs and as such it sounds (and goes) like an SPX have it on a largish carpet track (Maritime in Kent) and have set the gearing on Phantom Ion Pro 10.5 at 6.29 FDR down from 5.26 on standard software and this thing keeps spooling up, may have to consider dropping the FDR towards 7.0 as judging by current (outdoor) testing the motor is still accellerating at the braking zone. Thanks HW /KG / SP whoever for the great software.

Basically all I have done is Flash the LCD Programmer with the Speed Passion Ver 1.32 Software, funnily enough, as soon as you do this the start up welcome screen on the programmer then reads Speed Passion V1.02??






Using the 1.32 software has opened up the latest "Stock" profiles which show up there. Having run the car with the NEW 110 Speedpassion Software installed on the Exerun 120A SD, I have now got a car that is able to keep up with the SPX's against whom we run. This is a radical piece of software and introduces a two stage profile which acts very much like an SPX Turbo feature. The Car has mountains of 'Rip' out of corners and just keeps spooling up as you hit full throttle. I have been unable to top the car out yet on a fairly large tarmac area that I use for testing purposes. However it is ONLY advised for motors ABOVE 9.5T ie 10.5, 13.5, 17.5 etc.

Remember though that you do this at your own risk, to me it was worth the chance of Bricking an ESC to gain the benefits of a hugely more expensive model.

As stated elsewhere upon opening up the software profiles on the PC interface gives us a Hardware model HW427_01, when you look at the Speed Passion website there are info videos on how to set up the programming if you look carefully in the video at the Hardware version of the SP ESC they are working on then you will see HW427_01. Now I am not big on conspiracies but on my friends original SP GT it actually says "Speed Passion by Hobbywing".

It is my understanding that King Gold have exclusive distro rights outside of China but that HW sell under their own name in China, that is why we are able to buy from HK shops with impunity.

My buddy just bought a new Blue Exerun 120 SD for £70 inc shipping to the UK and this mystifies me because an SP GT2 Pro in the UK is close to £180. Call me old fashioned but that £110 is better in my pocket than in a Distributors.

If anybody wants the software I have the required stuff and if you fell like PM'ing me I will post it to some hosting so as to be able to download.

Happy Hobbywinging.
there you go !!! The software is the Speed Passion GT2.0 that I use and the links for that are here...

Download speedpassion_USB_link_setup.exe from FileFactory.com

hope it all helps.
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:59 AM   #227
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what's the difference between the 1.10 110 software and the 1.09 110 software?
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:31 AM   #228
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I followed the settings of DDRS:7, timing:22 fdr:5.01 and the motor is quite hot after a 5 minute run and yes it is an outdoor asphlat track. Didnt have the temperature gun so i didnt know how hot it went but i did run the whole 15 minutes expecting it to cut but it didnt, motor just stayed the same till that. My friend felt a lack of punch but very good top speed on the straights keeping up with 9t and 9.5t cars. Team powers motor is the sensored one i am using.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Do you have the Team Powers sensored or sensorless motor? could be important.
I run Novaks and Fantoms, both have adjustable timing on the endbell we just crank that up a little to gain more top end.
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Old 02-18-2010, 12:07 PM   #229
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You said before that temp was 62c.Anyway.Have you tried another motor?What's your friends motor?
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:07 PM   #230
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Hi Cherry,
Ver1/1.1 software can't be altered, well not by me anyway.I didn't think I had implied that,sorry for the misunderstanding.In fact I've found that the LCD box V.02 is useless in all aspects of programing anything below V2.0, It just doesn't work.(for EZRUN) We use the basic V1.2 program card.
Anyway, when I tried to flash my LCD to SP, I selected 2in 1 box on the drop down menu then hit upgrade, during the process all the little squares on the top line of the display lite up and a dialog box came up saying update failed. When unplugged from the ESC and computer and reinstalled to the ESC or computer the display on the box just had all the little squares on the top row lite up. So I reinstalled HW V1.5 and it came back alive(I thought I bricked the little thing).
Any suggestions please?
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:18 PM   #231
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The one with 62deg temp was on the first run with Drrs-9, timing 26 fdr 5.2 while the latest try was the one i stated above. It is the same motor that i have use on the 1st and 2nd try which is Team Powers 11.5t motor. My friend have tried my car on both attempts. I am not refering to his motor.

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You said before that temp was 62c.Anyway.Have you tried another motor?What's your friends motor?
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:41 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBOTubed View Post
Hi Cherry,
Ver1/1.1 software can't be altered, well not by me anyway.I didn't think I had implied that,sorry for the misunderstanding.In fact I've found that the LCD box V.02 is useless in all aspects of programing anything below V2.0, It just doesn't work.(for EZRUN) We use the basic V1.2 program card.
Anyway, when I tried to flash my LCD to SP, I selected 2in 1 box on the drop down menu then hit upgrade, during the process all the little squares on the top line of the display lite up and a dialog box came up saying update failed. When unplugged from the ESC and computer and reinstalled to the ESC or computer the display on the box just had all the little squares on the top row lite up. So I reinstalled HW V1.5 and it came back alive(I thought I bricked the little thing).
Any suggestions please?

Just a question is the LCD Box the metal one with the Silver buttons or the cheap looking plastic one with the Black buttons?
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:49 PM   #233
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Guys I need some help. I just got a xerun 120A 8.5 motor combo. I was surprised to see the case was popped open at one of the tabs near the sensor wire input. I was able to futz around with it enough to get it to close, but I don't know if it will hold. The tab wouldn't seat into the slot in the lower case.

That isn't my real issue though. I set it up and when I try to bind it to my receiver by holding the button on the switch down while the transmitter is on and I turn on the switch, it flashes red but beeps constantly and when I pull the trigger to full and then brake I get no green and red lights like I should. Funnily enough, when I just turn the thing on, it works fine and at full throttle I get green and on brake I get red, but something still seems wrong. It runs fine but I'm still worried.

Secondly, the default for timing is the most extreme timing. I used the LED box to turn it down to position 4, but I have no idea if that is ideal or too much or too little timing. Can someone tell me the best setting for 8.5T in a HPI blitz running on a fairly large offroad track?

Is my speedo ok? Will I be able to calibrate it in the future if I change radios?

Who do you call when there is a problem?

Thanks!
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Old 02-18-2010, 05:26 PM   #234
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Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
Guys I need some help. I just got a xerun 120A 8.5 motor combo. I was surprised to see the case was popped open at one of the tabs near the sensor wire input. I was able to futz around with it enough to get it to close, but I don't know if it will hold. The tab wouldn't seat into the slot in the lower case.

That isn't my real issue though. I set it up and when I try to bind it to my receiver by holding the button on the switch down while the transmitter is on and I turn on the switch, it flashes red but beeps constantly and when I pull the trigger to full and then brake I get no green and red lights like I should. Funnily enough, when I just turn the thing on, it works fine and at full throttle I get green and on brake I get red, but something still seems wrong. It runs fine but I'm still worried.

Secondly, the default for timing is the most extreme timing. I used the LED box to turn it down to position 4, but I have no idea if that is ideal or too much or too little timing. Can someone tell me the best setting for 8.5T in a HPI blitz running on a fairly large offroad track?

Is my speedo ok? Will I be able to calibrate it in the future if I change radios?

Who do you call when there is a problem?

Thanks!
Hi welcome to the world of Hobbywing lol, something tells me you are not following the instructions correctly.... I shall attempt to explain....

http://www.hobbywing.com/upload/manual/CarESC_e.pdf

Use a pen or screw driver to hold the
“SET” key and then switch on the ESC,
and release the “SET” key as soon as
possible
when the red LED begins to
flash.

So hold the button down, switch it on and almost immediately release the button (once it starts bleeping), this is now in the NEUTRAL setting point, have finger OFF the throttle and press the BUTTON ONCE, it will bleep ONCE, next hold the THROTTLE at FULL while simultaneously pressing the Button once again, should bleep twice, next hold the BRAKE on FULL and press the button again, ESC should bleep 3 times. Next switch OFF the ESC and then turn it back on again. Et Voila the setup should be complete.

For correct software, the Speed Passion users suggest the Speed Passion 323 software for modified, so that should be a good starting point.

If you do not have the LCD Box then just leave it at Standard settings until you get a feel for the ESC, will be fine as it is mate.

As for the case lug being broken mine has been like it for about a year since I was T-Boned on my ESC, is all fine generally stays put, if you are worried either a Dab of Thick superglue, or wrap some battery tape around the bottom of the ESC, will be fine.

Who do you call if you have a problem is anybodies guess lol, but consider how little you paid for what is in effect a Speed Passion GT2.0 then something I suppose has to give.

Hope this all helps !! And good luck.
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:00 PM   #235
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Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Hi welcome to the world of Hobbywing lol, something tells me you are not following the instructions correctly.... I shall attempt to explain....

http://www.hobbywing.com/upload/manual/CarESC_e.pdf

Use a pen or screw driver to hold the
“SET” key and then switch on the ESC,
and release the “SET” key as soon as
possible
when the red LED begins to
flash.

So hold the button down, switch it on and almost immediately release the button (once it starts bleeping), this is now in the NEUTRAL setting point, have finger OFF the throttle and press the BUTTON ONCE, it will bleep ONCE, next hold the THROTTLE at FULL while simultaneously pressing the Button once again, should bleep twice, next hold the BRAKE on FULL and press the button again, ESC should bleep 3 times. Next switch OFF the ESC and then turn it back on again. Et Voila the setup should be complete.

For correct software, the Speed Passion users suggest the Speed Passion 323 software for modified, so that should be a good starting point.

If you do not have the LCD Box then just leave it at Standard settings until you get a feel for the ESC, will be fine as it is mate.

As for the case lug being broken mine has been like it for about a year since I was T-Boned on my ESC, is all fine generally stays put, if you are worried either a Dab of Thick superglue, or wrap some battery tape around the bottom of the ESC, will be fine.

Who do you call if you have a problem is anybodies guess lol, but consider how little you paid for what is in effect a Speed Passion GT2.0 then something I suppose has to give.

Hope this all helps !! And good luck.
Thanks for the reply.. jeez it's late where you are. I just got off the phone with my girlfriend, she's in Yorkshire and I'm in the US . I actually figured out what I was doing wrong with a re-read of the instructions. I wasn't used to having to click the setup button again like that.

As far as software, I don't have the LCD box, so I cannot download updates yet, but the LED box allows for setting the timing anywhere from 0 degrees to 26.25 degrees in 7 different steps. the default is all the way at 26.25 and I thought that might burn up my motor or speedo with an 8.5 motor. I set it at 11.25 degrees which is step 4 of item 9. Is that ok? or am I giving up too much power? or should I set it lower?

Cheers!
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:06 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
Thanks for the reply.. jeez it's late where you are. I just got off the phone with my girlfriend, she's in Yorkshire and I'm in the US . I actually figured out what I was doing wrong with a re-read of the instructions. I wasn't used to having to click the setup button again like that.

As far as software, I don't have the LCD box, so I cannot download updates yet, but the LED box allows for setting the timing anywhere from 0 degrees to 26.25 degrees in 7 different steps. the default is all the way at 26.25 and I thought that might burn up my motor or speedo with an 8.5 motor. I set it at 11.25 degrees which is step 4 of item 9. Is that ok? or am I giving up too much power? or should I set it lower?

Cheers!
Should be fine at standard settings to be honest mate.
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:31 PM   #237
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Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Just a question is the LCD Box the metal one with the Silver buttons or the cheap looking plastic one with the Black buttons?
Yeah you you know I noticed in the pics that you posted your box has silver buttons and the stickers are in different positions than mine which has black buttons and is plastic.

So, I dont mean to sound thick, a box with SP flashed on it will offer you settings for timing that differ from what is on the HW box ie 0,3.75,7.5,11.25 etc etc etc...?
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:48 PM   #238
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help me, can't decide between the 120A Xerun or a Team Wave RB-50.

Lots of guys at my track are running the HW and a few Tekin RS Pro. THanks guys
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:11 PM   #239
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Aaron, this is deifinetly the wrong thread to ask these questions. Seeing it a Xerun thread ofcourse everyone would favour it in HW's way. You should read the thread from the start and then survey Team wave's RB-50.
On the track there is only 1 Tekin RS Pro and a few LRP's but ofcourse Hobbywing's Ezrun will be domination in numbers. I myself am using the 120A Xerun without any problem whether its for 9T or 11.5T as they have the firmware to suit your motor and your needs. Cheers. Good luck deciding.



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Originally Posted by cheapskate.brok View Post
help me, can't decide between the 120A Xerun or a Team Wave RB-50.

Lots of guys at my track are running the HW and a few Tekin RS Pro. THanks guys
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:06 PM   #240
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Team powers sensored motor 11.5. I look around the motor and there doesnt seem to be any adjustment for timing on it. All i see is where i can plug the sensor in. On 107 firmware, i geared it down to 5.01 punch at XII timing at 22 and it is better then my previous setup on the esc but ofcourse hot to the touch. Will the 110 be better than the 107?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Do you have the Team Powers sensored or sensorless motor? could be important.
I run Novaks and Fantoms, both have adjustable timing on the endbell we just crank that up a little to gain more top end.
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