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Old 07-16-2009, 04:50 PM   #16
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Looking forward to seeing your build up BX!

It has been killing me, having my F104 sit on the shelf until my Associated IPC v8.1 speed controller arrives. I picked one up for around $60.00 US. I am going to stick with the stock Johnson motor for the time being.

The batt goes pretty far forward so traction may be pretty even. If that fails, a stick on wheel weight will do the trick.
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:50 PM   #17
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A couple weeks ago I raced F1 at an awesome outdoor facility with 19t motors and 7.4 lipo. It was very fast, to say the least. 10.5 is probably pushing it.

That being said, a friend of mine told me a few years ago, in the days of 3300 batteries, they were racing 235mm pan cars on a gas track with 10t brush motors, and passing the 1/8 gas cars down the back straight. He said it was ridiculous even with the high down force GTP bodies. I just don't know if a car that weighs like 850g and has no where near the down force could keep a 3.5 planted. Tell us how you do, though, and take video
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:34 PM   #18
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Gotta agree, I have a 102 that has been with me since the late '80's. No parts have been replaced on it other than what's normal, screws that may have loosened up, an O ring once in a while and such. The cars are wholly dependable and cheap. Did I mention scary fast for a few bucks. And should we tell him about all the other brands that are out there? Yes they are getting popular again.
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:12 PM   #19
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The general consensus pretty much sums up what I thought....higher turn motors are not necessary for ballistic speed. I can always go with a 10.5, gear it to the hilt and BLAZE<-without the angry face of course. As far as run times, I have read these cars can go 20 minutes with an ordinary 3800 stick pack? I have run my Pro 4 with LIPO hard against nitros for 18 minutes...that was pushing it, but it did it with moderate motor temps. The way these cars look, it'll be fun just to figure out the sweet spot and compete.
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:37 AM   #20
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I think the stick pack like a Reedy Wolfpack 3000 is the way to go, the chassis was designed for it, and with a 10.5T you will have a beast on your hands

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Old 07-19-2009, 02:31 PM   #21
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In the midst of my travels, I happened upon this oldie but goodie.....http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-Tyrell-F1...C294%3A50....I know posting ebay stuff is frowned upon, but i aint selling it and I know someone like Vyger or Wildstylez or akura would jump on this classic piece.
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Old 07-20-2009, 06:39 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxpitbull View Post
The general consensus pretty much sums up what I thought....higher turn motors are not necessary for ballistic speed. I can always go with a 10.5, gear it to the hilt and BLAZE<-without the angry face of course. As far as run times, I have read these cars can go 20 minutes with an ordinary 3800 stick pack? I have run my Pro 4 with LIPO hard against nitros for 18 minutes...that was pushing it, but it did it with moderate motor temps. The way these cars look, it'll be fun just to figure out the sweet spot and compete.

In my local track, we began racing 103s again last year on a regular basis. We qualify with fastest lap times ala real scale f1 and run extended mains (30 minutes) with mandatory pitstops. It was a true blast as the pitstop played into the strategy and actually demanded a little physical exertion from the drivers. Two months ago (during our club F1 off season), we tried running a one-hour enduro. I used a 103RM with a stock mabuchi. Someone else ran a 103R with Tamiya GT tuned 25T. I pitted twice with 3600 lipos, he pitted 3 times. We did nearly 200 laps apiece and we were only one lap apart!!! It was close all the way from beginning to end. That's what racing should be like. And BTW, the motors did not overheat on either car.

As our 2009 F1 Club season resumes in the next month or two, I'm contemplating running either my 103R or 104 Pro and am hopeful that F1 popularity increases. It is so much cheaper to run than TCs and just as rewarding if not more so.
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:54 AM   #23
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^ that sounds like a dream, always wanted to visit the Philippines.
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:47 AM   #24
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In my local track, we began racing 103s again last year on a regular basis. We qualify with fastest lap times ala real scale f1 and run extended mains (30 minutes) with mandatory pitstops. It was a true blast as the pitstop played into the strategy and actually demanded a little physical exertion from the drivers. Two months ago (during our club F1 off season), we tried running a one-hour enduro. I used a 103RM with a stock mabuchi. Someone else ran a 103R with Tamiya GT tuned 25T. I pitted twice with 3600 lipos, he pitted 3 times. We did nearly 200 laps apiece and we were only one lap apart!!! It was close all the way from beginning to end. That's what racing should be like. And BTW, the motors did not overheat on either car.

As our 2009 F1 Club season resumes in the next month or two, I'm contemplating running either my 103R or 104 Pro and am hopeful that F1 popularity increases. It is so much cheaper to run than TCs and just as rewarding if not more so.
Thats what I am talking about. 25T brushed, in your opinion, what speeds were you hitting? I know those things fly, just want to know for my knowledge.....being used to a 3.5 brushless and all . Pit stops...man, that is racing! I often wondered if F1 truly catapults to its rightful place in racing, will we see events on the 1/8th scale nitro level. I know its wishful thinking, but hey, ya never know. This is definately for the mature and serious members of our hobby. Thanks again.
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:20 PM   #25
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^ that sounds like a dream, always wanted to visit the Philippines.
Its reality my friend. We have been enjoying the benefits of year-round all weather indoor racing for a couple of years now in a massive warehouse converted to a world class asphalt rc on road track. We've had Masaaki Hirosaka (Masami's Dad) visit us several times already. Everyone is welcome to play and race with us. Practice/Race fees are normally under USD10 equivalent in local currency. You can visit our thread at:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/manila-r...e-rc-club.html



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Thats what I am talking about. 25T brushed, in your opinion, what speeds were you hitting? I know those things fly, just want to know for my knowledge.....being used to a 3.5 brushless and all . Pit stops...man, that is racing! I often wondered if F1 truly catapults to its rightful place in racing, will we see events on the 1/8th scale nitro level. I know its wishful thinking, but hey, ya never know. This is definately for the mature and serious members of our hobby. Thanks again.

We never got to clock the actual speeds but for reference, speeds of F103 powered with the 23T brushed was faster than similarly powered TCs while F103 with 25T brushed seem to match 23T/13.5BL TCs. Mabuchi powered F103s only very slightly slower. I guess you don't need too much motor on these F1 chassis to reach their potential. I've yet to see someone slap on a low wind motor on these.
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:43 PM   #26
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Here's a video showing our local track.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Our biggest turnout for an RC F1 club race last season was for 17 or 18 cars all run in one big group.
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:45 PM   #27
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Motors and batts. I am used to running a 3.5 Novak and MaxAmps lipo in my Pro 4 and going PLAID. From what I have gathered, seems the hottest motor I have found installed is a 10.5. Looking at the chassis, doesnt look like their is room for anything other than a stick pack . Will my Maxamps fit without shaving the battery compartment? Can I run (eventually after learning this type of car) a 3.5? Can the differential and other hardware of the car be able to withstand the torque/rpm's of a 3.5? Thanks fellas, you dont know how this is easing my transition into a REAL section of our hobby and racing.
You'll find many similarities in the WGT class, as both F1 and WGT are essentially just different layouts of the old pan-car chassis. On asphalt, WGT cars are running 17.5/2C with the spec WGT foam tires without much fuss. However, tossing in more power leads to scary on-power handling. Carpet racing is a different story though, and more power can be contained to a much better degree.

On the topic of popularity, I'd like to see this class grow through affordability and scale realism. Keeping the speed down and the tire choices cheap and effective will be key to that success.
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:46 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxpitbull View Post
Motors and batts. I am used to running a 3.5 Novak and MaxAmps lipo in my Pro 4 and going PLAID. From what I have gathered, seems the hottest motor I have found installed is a 10.5. Looking at the chassis, doesnt look like their is room for anything other than a stick pack . Will my Maxamps fit without shaving the battery compartment? Can I run (eventually after learning this type of car) a 3.5? Can the differential and other hardware of the car be able to withstand the torque/rpm's of a 3.5? Thanks fellas, you dont know how this is easing my transition into a REAL section of our hobby and racing.
I've got a 13T Hobbywing brushless setup in mine and it HONKS
I've spent some time getting it to flex, just to get it to be driveable and even now, it's skitish at high speeds
I think it would be too difficult to try and get the chassis to generate the grip required to use a 3.5T unless you ran at 3.7V
I'm talking on asphalt though. Don't know about carpet
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:13 AM   #29
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Thank you for reviving a 2yr old thread...
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