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Old 09-12-2004, 11:37 AM   #1111
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Originally posted by eeyan
No Todd... you did okay but somebody just hit you really hard... That crack on your front body is definitely not good... car was freaking fast though!!!

BTW... 3 cheers to M Dawson... now where did he come from? But then again... dump, dump, DUMP!!! OUCH! Mark, next time wear briefs not boxers...
Thanks Ian. Next time, nothing! Too hot for boxers or briefs.

In fairness to the battery issue, it was a charge issue; not enough mah is never good. Those packs usually have some wicked charge-ins but we found some things we need to change with the generator and power strip.

That was a great "E" ticket ride!
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Old 09-12-2004, 11:45 AM   #1112
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy Caster
You can adjust how much play there is on the front or rear arms by loosening the screws on the inner pivot mount and setting it where you need it. I have found you can get so much movement that often times I dont even need extra shims to get slop out.
Thanks Randy, I tried that too already but I think its an angle issue. I tried putting back the 2F mount and the bind disappeared. I just find it weird Maybe the Todd can shed some light on the mystery
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Old 09-12-2004, 12:06 PM   #1113
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Originally posted by Fatboy Joe
Thanks Randy, I tried that too already but I think its an angle issue. I tried putting back the 2F mount and the bind disappeared. I just find it weird Maybe the Todd can shed some light on the mystery
With the 2R in front, depending on the wheelbase setting, the caster blocks may hit the shock springs during uptravel. Just another place to check. From memory, I had to reshim the wheel base spacers when I made the change from 2F to 2R.
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Old 09-12-2004, 01:56 PM   #1114
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hi i have a xxxs and i racing sportman i do not know if it is any guy here race it be it is mosted about drive skill and if i run a 6.19 gear ratio on the 1500battery and 27tmotor can i get 7-8min out of it i'am not a new b i race mob to and stock i just like the sportman class and if i show you pic of my race track can you give me a set-up for the xxxs
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Old 09-12-2004, 02:02 PM   #1115
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Default 2R block in front

Another thing you need to look out for is the fact that when you run the 2R block in the front it effectively narrows the front of the car substantially... this can cause your CVD to bottom out inside your diff/one way and limit your uptravel severely...

There's really not much you can do to fix this if it's happening save for dremeling down the CVD ball so that it doesn't bottom out anymore...
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:44 AM   #1116
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Default Re: 2R block in front

Quote:
Originally posted by Evicerator
Another thing you need to look out for is the fact that when you run the 2R block in the front it effectively narrows the front of the car substantially... this can cause your CVD to bottom out inside your diff/one way and limit your uptravel severely...

There's really not much you can do to fix this if it's happening save for dremeling down the CVD ball so that it doesn't bottom out anymore...
Thanks for the info. I also noticed that if I take out the camber link and push the suspension up by holding the steering knuckle, there seems to be no bind, but when the camber link is installed, the bind is present.
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:51 AM   #1117
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The can be the CVD bottoming out like Steve said. If the camber link is off, the castor block would just move and you wouldn't feel the bind. I had to flatten out the ball end on the CVD bones to run the 2F in the front without it binding on me.
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:34 AM   #1118
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another thing you can do to run the 2R in the front is countersink the drive cups and the small 256 screws from the belt cover work great and provide the needed room too
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Old 09-13-2004, 02:45 PM   #1119
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I run the steel cvd's up front with the 2R set-up

I guess they are shorter or something because they do not bind at all, also for the ball cup problem, you might want to take some polishing compound and a dremel to your ball studs, if that doesn't work, then just find out which ball cup is binding and replace it, I have found with RPM ball-cups that if you buy a pack of 12 about 3 or 4 of the need some inner work

I also run a aluminum spool up front with the 2R set-up and steel CVD's
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Old 09-13-2004, 04:56 PM   #1120
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Thanks Todd
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Old 09-13-2004, 10:29 PM   #1121
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hey Todd with carpet season coming I was thinking about adding a reciever pack to my 12th scale. do you have any charging recomendations?
lol

hope to be able to make to the worlds and see all you guys. I wonder if Hara now what catbrains are? lol
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Old 09-14-2004, 07:19 AM   #1122
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eeyan-Thanks!!!

Osherman-Right on man...let me know if you have any questions.

fatboyjoe-The bind I always have found is that it is the CVD ball hitting the oneway screw. I just cut the ball down to the pin and it is fine.

davepull-Man you are still playing with catbrains....I would think your nuts would start hurting after awhile.
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Old 09-14-2004, 10:12 PM   #1123
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First off I have been running the Reedy setup with the spool and the 2R support. I have picked up .3 to .4 sec per laps over my best times with a spool or a oneway and old setups! In the past I could make my car fast but inconsistant or consistant but slow. I was about to ditch the car and get an X-ray till I used this set-up. Thanks you guys for sharing it with us.

The first time I put the 2R block in front I had a bind also. The arms would not go down fully and or push up. I finally saw that the arm was hitting the hump on the bumper where the tweak screws go. I used a Dremel with a grinding bit and put a recess into the arms above where the bump was and took care of my bind. Hope this helps.

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Old 09-15-2004, 08:44 AM   #1124
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i have a xxxs and i lost the turnbuckle tool where can i get another what do you use and if you have a part number on it
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Old 09-15-2004, 09:25 AM   #1125
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Hi guys, thank you for the info on the 2R and binding remedies
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